Front endlink recommendations?

[MO-KAN SHO]

I'm looking to replace the front endlinks, but have seen there are both steel and aluminum versions for about the same price. I have plastic ones on there now

Is there any performance difference between the aluminum and steel? I understand the steel will be heavier, but for such a small part, I wouldn't think the weight of them would cause much difference in performance.

I've got Koni's and Intrax on the way if that helps with which I should get.


TIA....
Ben

 

[SHOZ123]

Personally I think the plastic are fine. The trick ones are from the Windstars. These are aluminum.

 

[MO-KAN SHO]

Well, I'm pretty sure my front springs are shot, so I've got new springs and struts on order. But the way it acts and what I've learned about the setup so far, I think part of the problem could be those endlinks. So for $80 I'll replace them with the rest of the stuff.

 

[91 SHOplus]

SHOZ123:
Personally I think the plastic are fine. The trick ones are from the Windstars. These are aluminum.

I broke both of my plastic ones in about 6 weeks. squint
I'll be getting the Windstar ones this time.

 

[Ishodu]

I haven't had much luck with the plastic ones, usually about a 6 month life span for me. I installed the Aluminum ones back in the end of April. Seem to be doing just fine.

 

[shobote]

I installed the plastic ones and no problems after 1 year now; haven't been on the track with them though so no experience other than street. easy to inspect your plastic ones if you suspect them as problematic; just take the wheel off and have a look.

 

[LaTechSHO]

i've got the steel MOOG ones.... they work great... and have lasted a long time

Louis

 

[Bizzy]

The plastic ones are garbage IMO, I never got more than 6 months out of a set. Go with the aluminum Windstar ones if you can. Ahhh...my own next mod.

 

[SHOZ123]

I have only had one plastic one go bad and that was from the nut coming off the top stud. Maybe there is too much movement in your SHOs.

 

[sdpatt]

For those that have failed the composite end links, what is the mechanism of the failure? I don't understand how they could fail so quickly. The links on my car have been on there for over 10 years and show no signs of structural or bearing seal failure.

 

[MO-KAN SHO]

My plastic ones (stock) don't seem to be broken, I just thought maybe they're worn out due to the way it handles.

I'm still sure the springs are to blame, though... going to swap the endlinks as a "while you're in there" fix.

 

[Ishodu]

sdpatt:
For those that have failed the composite end links, what is the mechanism of the failure? I don't understand how they could fail so quickly. The links on my car have been on there for over 10 years and show no signs of structural or bearing seal failure.

It looks like the grease leaks out. When ever they went bad on me they were bone dry, with alot of play in them too. Not sure if they got dry and wore out or they failed internally then the grease came out. I also had them installed tight without spinning them, by using two wrenches.

 

[SHOZ123]

When I changed my OEM 22mm FSB out of my '97 for a 24mm one from a Gen 2 I noticed the Gen 3 bar had some built in collars. Put in the 24mm bar and there was so much movement from side to side I had to put on some split collars on the inside edge of the bushing. Must have been able to move it at least two inches. The top end link stud would hit the hub without them.

Has anyone noticed this on the GEN 1-2s that have failing endlinks? Also those that have the failing links are you using an impact wrench on them?

 

[drivinhard]

I've never had any of mine go bad, the ones on my 92 have have almost 90k on them. Were still pretty tight last time I had the subframe off

 

[91 SHOplus]

Both of mine cracked. I don't go to the track, and I don't think I drive That hard. Brand new KYB's, SFBs, and tie rods too.

 

[luigisho]

I got the Moog greaseable replacements and I like them better than the stock units. They are steel and very durable--- plus they use 2 seperate nuts as fasteners instead of the single nut with small hex stud in the middle to tighten and remove. The larger fasteners make torquing and removing corroded parts much easier with the larger contact areas.

<small>[ October 16, 2003, 10:55 AM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[shoinoff95]

I was underneath my SHO yesterday, trying to locate the popping, banging sound that I hear whenever I hit a bump; is the front endlink supposed to have any play in it at all or is it supposed to be stable and not able to move around much? shrug

 

[fricker66]

shoinoff95:
I was underneath my SHO yesterday, trying to locate the popping, banging sound that I hear whenever I hit a bump; is the front endlink supposed to have any play in it at all or is it supposed to be stable and not able to move around much? shrug

The front endlinks should not have much play in them. Did you check to see if the nuts were properly torqued? It's possible for them to come loose and will create "play" in the movement of the swaybar.

Earlier this year I replaced my factory endlinks with the TRW composite links. After only a week or two, the endlinks started "popping" when going over any bumps in the road. I didn't have a complete failure, just an annoying pop and knew that the balljoints weren't going to last very long. I replaced them under warranty and noticed that there is only a dab of grease inside the clear boot of the balljoint. On the second set, I decided to insert additional synthetic grease into the joint in hopes of avoiding another short-term replacement. So far, problem solved.....