Fort Wayne Tech Meet 10-17, Saturday

[SuperHO]

pipe wrench? why? just use a universal wrench (vise-grips)

 

[SHOhopefull]

umm... what do you do for work again? lol You would be better accustomed to it than anyone else.. lol

LOL! Oh, it's not the drive that would bother me(avarage work day for me), it's the logistics involved (gas, time)

 

[boat]

Oh, just Eric's suggestion, after he tried vise grips.

pipe wrench? why? just use a universal wrench (vise-grips)

 

[Huntervf]

Having the starter and the Y off ahead of time will really help

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Yeah bubba - you gotta quit passing up these free food opportunities. You loose too much more weight and the next good wind is going to blow you away, like Dorothy . . . .

:tumbleweed:


Driving a chebby? Funny? Now what are the neighbors going to think when Mike's yard doesn't look like a clone-lot?

What free food? I'm there man! What kind of food. Just to be funny, I'm driving a chevy there

 

[Storm-Chaser]

fixed !

Heh, funny. My car is always the beer table...

Priorities !

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Well, at least with boat having a SHO with a somewhat recently changed/reworked engine, the bolts/screws/nuts should come out/off easier.

I agree with the cam seals and front main. Do the water pump, crank sensor, front main, and cam seals at the same time.

IF the y-pipe hasn't been off recently, start "pre-treating" it with PB Blaster every few days, and if possible, try breaking the exhaust bolts loose after a few "treatments", before that weekend. That way if you find they won't come off, you have time to get it to a shop where you can have the exhaust manifold studs removed and changed, as well as time to order new ones (which btw I can get).

Keeping people motivated, means keeping the beer under lock until the work is done . . . .

Front 60k AND rod bearings will be tough for one day. It's not how many people are there, it's the fact that only one person can work in each spot at a time. And if there's a LOT of people, inevitably that hurts the working process more than helps.

Beyond that, replacing cam seals and front main will require the removal of the timing belt and CPS anyway. If you have the cash, it won't be any extra labor to replace them.

Not trying to be a buzzkill, just offering some advice. Rod bearings can be a bit more involved than people realize, especially if you run into problems dropping the y-pipe. I already have other plans that weekend, but it sounds like a great time. Good luck on the work, and KEEP PEOPLE MOTIVATED

 

[bubba]

Yeah Storm, I try to get as much food as I can... Oh and Storm it was good meeting you... When I left at 4 in the morning for Erics place you were sleeping lol

 

[Eric VerValin]

LoL you pansies fell asleep after being awake what 15 hours? I was only on hour 30something.. lol

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Yeah, you drive nearly a 1000 miles, get 4 hours sleep in a truck stop and spend the next morning in an out-of-state junkyard scouring for parts before driving to the next state, and see how late you make it the following night.

I also seem to remember, the misses of the house stating the next morning that everyone except Eric was asleep in one chair or another, . . . at 2AM. Yeah, I use to be able to do that - back-to-back all-nighters - like decades ago . . . .

Yeah Storm, I try to get as much food as I can... Oh and Storm it was good meeting you... When I left at 4 in the morning for Erics place you were sleeping lol

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Wimps . . . , 9 hours, . . . that's child's play !

umm... what do you do for work again? lol You would be better accustomed to it than anyone else.. lol

DAMN DISTANCE!!! I'd so come on up, but well, a day up and a day back

edit: Wow! 9hrs, 18min...umm yeah LOL

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Personally, I would order a new set of exhaust manifold studs/locknuts, and get the studs pulled/replaced before hand. That way you can knock-out the front 60k.

Any OEM parts you need, I can most likely still get, including the manifold studs, cam seals, crank sensor, and the like. The only OEM items that are getting hard-to-get are the main seals and pan seals. I believe the front is discontinued and [now] obsolete, the rear main seal recently discontinued, but available. Or was that the pan seals . . . .

Regardless, let me know, and I'll know within a day or so.

I'd like to get both done, but understand if that can't happen. I am going to have the y-pipe off and starter off before we get started. I had the ypipe off a couple of months ago, I do however need to get some new studs on the exhaust manifolds(manifold to ypipe), some meathead put the wrong hardware on there before me, and I had no other way around it but to try to re-use it. Plus, there is one exhaust manifold stud (again, manifold to ypipe) broken off in the front, done by prior owner. I want to try to have these replaced before we do the rod bearings. Maybe instead of doing the front 60k, try replacing the exhaust manifold studs, instead.

I have had a look at the timing belt, still looks new. I may go ahead and buy that stuff anyway, just in case. The po told me along with reciepts, that the CID, CPS, Water pump, timing belt, have all been replaced within the last 20k miles or so.

[deleted]

I have the torque wrenches that will be needed. The question is whether "they" (PNP) have a sale that weekend. If they don't, I will most likely be able to make it.

If the O2 sensor has "nearly" rounded-off, a torch is the best way to ensure it's going to come out without significant damage to the y-pipe. Most of the oxygen sensor sockets tend to "spread" with use - that's what results in rounding the sensor even though you're using a 6-point socket. The best thing to use, is a 6-point box-end wrench. If you're not going to re-use the sensor, you can simply cut the wire-harness lead and be done with it. Otherwise, you can remove the harness connector if you want to save the sensor.

I don't have the 3/8's torque wrench, please bring yours if you would.

Oh, and someone bring a pipe wrench, I have an old 02 stuck in this ypipe I want to get out, I have a new 02 I want to put in but don't have the pipe wrench to get it out. I do have the 02 socket you put on the 3/8's ratchet, and it is almost to the point of rounding the 02.

[deleted]

If you want to come, come on up. Would be happy to have ya. :wave:

 

[platoribs]

Heh, funny. My car is always the table...

Table dance... you mean.

 

[boat]

The first priority of getting the studs/locknuts first and foremost ordered, the sooner I can change those the better.

Ok, then I need for you to order for me the manifold studs/locknuts, cam seals, crank sensor, cam sensor, rear main/carrier gasket. As far as the oil pan seal, oil pump pickup tube gasket, and the front main, can be ordered from SHOSource. The front main on their website is listed as Ford OEM. I know I will need a 3.0L H2o pump and timing belt, serpentine belts, too.

Am I missing anything for the front 60k???

I am eventually going to try to have Bizzy build me up a MTX with my gearset I got from the PO (supposedly has low miles on it, like under 50k), put this trans in my SHO, (keeping current trans for spare) and at that point change out the rear main seal and carrier gasket. The clutch isn't that old either, maybe around 15k miles on it feels good with no issues. So at that point I will need a rear main/carrier gasket set.

Personally, I would order a new set of exhaust manifold studs/locknuts, and get the studs pulled/replaced before hand. That way you can knock-out the front 60k.

Any OEM parts you need, I can most likely still get, including the manifold studs, cam seals, crank sensor, and the like. The only OEM items that are getting hard-to-get are the main seals and pan seals. I believe the front is discontinued and [now] obsolete, the rear main seal recently discontinued, but available. Or was that the pan seals . . . .

Regardless, let me know, and I'll know within a day or so.

So if you can't make it, then someone else needs to have and bring the 3/8's torque wrench, and a torch to get that 02 out. I will try getting a box-end 6 sided wrench to get this out. Not saving this sensor, it is a Ford OEM 02, the ypipe came off a 40k mile SHO, so the 02 it self is still working well, I just want to get it out while I will have the help in getting it out, and I nicked the wires when trying to get it out before. I have a new(er) Bosch 02 that came off the other ypipe that was originally on the car.

I have the torque wrenches that will be needed. The question is whether "they" (PNP) have a sale that weekend. If they don't, I will most likely be able to make it.

If the O2 sensor has "nearly" rounded-off, a torch is the best way to ensure it's going to come out without significant damage to the y-pipe. Most of the oxygen sensor sockets tend to "spread" with use - that's what results in rounding the sensor even though you're using a 6-point socket. The best thing to use, is a 6-point box-end wrench. If you're not going to re-use the sensor, you can simply cut the wire-harness lead and be done with it. Otherwise, you can remove the harness connector if you want to save the sensor.

Thanks Storm :thankyou:

 

[bubba]

Get on it Boat! When we show up, and knock it out and go play with the ricers afterwards!

The first priority of getting the studs/locknuts first and foremost ordered, the sooner I can change those the better.

Ok, then I need for you to order for me the manifold studs/locknuts, cam seals, crank sensor, cam sensor, rear main/carrier gasket. As far as the oil pan seal, oil pump pickup tube gasket, and the front main, can be ordered from SHOSource. The front main on their website is listed as Ford OEM. I know I will need a 3.0L H2o pump and timing belt, serpentine belts, too.

Am I missing anything for the front 60k???

I am eventually going to try to have Bizzy build me up a MTX with my gearset I got from the PO (supposedly has low miles on it, like under 50k), put this trans in my SHO, (keeping current trans for spare) and at that point change out the rear main seal and carrier gasket. The clutch isn't that old either, maybe around 15k miles on it feels good with no issues. So at that point I will need a rear main/carrier gasket set.





So if you can't make it, then someone else needs to have and bring the 3/8's torque wrench, and a torch to get that 02 out. I will try getting a box-end 6 sided wrench to get this out. Not saving this sensor, it is a Ford OEM 02, the ypipe came off a 40k mile SHO, so the 02 it self is still working well, I just want to get it out while I will have the help in getting it out, and I nicked the wires when trying to get it out before. I have a new(er) Bosch 02 that came off the other ypipe that was originally on the car.



Thanks Storm :thankyou:

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I hear it's going to be "featured" in a soon to be released "motion picture" . . . .



Recent rumors are that it will be titled "Debbie SHOws Ford the true meaning of 'Drive One' . . ."

Table dance... you mean.

Heh, funny. My car is always the table...

 

[Storm-Chaser]

boat, bubba, Eric - I have created a "parts needed" spreadsheet list. Please let me know what parts you guys need. Include whether you need/prefer OEM parts, third-party aftermarket parts, or used parts (eg. door latch and actuator rods for bubba) - list parts even if you have plans to get the parts from other sources, like boat did above. I'll start tracking down all the parts on my end and pm/email availability and cost.

This gives us about two weeks to ensure reasonable time for the parts to arrive by the start of the Labor Day weekend (Friday, 4 Sep).

If there are additional costs, like getting individual obsolete items shipped separately from various sources, I will let you know.


If anyone else is planning to show-up and needs parts, you can post your request here as well. I have a listing of some used parts I have, in my For Sale ad in the Classified Forums.

 

[boat]

Storm, I will dig into my drivers-door some evening this week, and see what the issue is, and try to figure out what part(s) I will need. The door handle was pulled out, would still pull the door open, but it was like in an extended position. It has since some how, moved back into a "normal" position, still opens the door from the inside, not broken. Not sure what is going on, or what got bound up. Thanks for your help.

boat, bubba, Eric - I have created a "parts needed" spreadsheet list. Please let me know what parts you guys need. Include whether you need/prefer OEM parts, third-party aftermarket parts, or used parts (eg. door latch and actuator rods for bubba) - list parts even if you have plans to get the parts from other sources, like boat did above. I'll start tracking down all the parts on my end and pm/email availability and cost.

This gives us about two weeks to ensure reasonable time for the parts to arrive by the start of the Labor Day weekend (Friday, 4 Sep).

If there are additional costs, like getting individual obsolete items shipped separately from various sources, I will let you know.


If anyone else is planning to show-up and needs parts, you can post your request here as well. I have a listing of some used parts I have, in my For Sale ad in the Classified Forums.

 

[bubba]

Storm I need a lot of parts and price checks

95 D4U1 as I'm went out
DPFE ( new)
EGR (new of course)
egr senser

I have a lot of codes that needs to be taken care of. Plus the other parts we talked about, when you were here! I trying to get everything taken care of, of the people that are holding stuff for me! You will be taken care of!

boat, bubba, Eric - I have created a "parts needed" spreadsheet list. Please let me know what parts you guys need. Include whether you need/prefer OEM parts, third-party aftermarket parts, or used parts (eg. door latch and actuator rods for bubba) - list parts even if you have plans to get the parts from other sources, like boat did above. I'll start tracking down all the parts on my end and pm/email availability and cost.

This gives us about two weeks to ensure reasonable time for the parts to arrive by the start of the Labor Day weekend (Friday, 4 Sep).

If there are additional costs, like getting individual obsolete items shipped separately from various sources, I will let you know.


If anyone else is planning to show-up and needs parts, you can post your request here as well. I have a listing of some used parts I have, in my For Sale ad in the Classified Forums.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Sorry my car only spits out codes 111.... I don't NEED anything.. lol well yea I do, but thsi isn't the place to advertise that sort of thing...