Faulty cam sensor possibly causing drivetrain issues?

[Holiday]

Gonna change out the cam sensor next as I already have a new one. Seems I can DIY it but I wonder about the seal. I assume if I remove the sensor I will see the seal inserted in the camshaft. I also assume the seal keeps oil from reaching the sensor so if I pull the old seal will oil start leaking out? The method to access the bolts holding the cam sensor in place via the wheel-well I assume is to avoid having to unbolt and move the steering fluid reservoir and access up top, correct? How long a ratchet extension is needed?

Thanks

 

[Holiday]

Have you tackled the cam sensor yet? I see you have one but I don't know if you've removed it and swapped it out. If you already have one I would change it out and see how much, if any, oil is back in there.

As I already have the cam sensor I'm gonna put it in next. It seems like it would be a DIY job but could someone tell me how long a ratchet extension is required if I go in through the wheel-well? I assume this method preferred instead of unfastening the steering fluid reservoir and going in on top (?). I also assume the seal is visible in the camshaft once I remove the sensor, if I then remove the seal to replace (I have a new one) will oil leak out significantly in the process?

 

[rubydist]

I have always done it from the top. Its not hard.

 

[luigisho]

The seal is awkward to see and get to. If the motor is not running there will be some oil that hasn't drained back but very little. It's a pressurized system and camshaft rotation needs oil, and cam sensor needs the end of the camshaft to...sense-- without a bunch of oil messing up the reading.

For extentions, it's been a while and I never noticed as I just keep adding and mix and match. I have alot of that stuff accumulated over the years. I would say maybe 1-1.5 ft. You can eyeball the sensor to the sheet metal from the top and then give yourself some extra. If you have a few 6" and a 3" extension or so you should be good I would guess.

 

[Holiday]

Thanks. Going to attempt soon. Hopefully it clears up the issue.

 

[SeanDev]

Thanks again.

I'm gonna reset the computer and perhaps reapply the thermal paste to the DIS as well as check/clean connectors. I already bought the cam sensor awhile ago so I'm thinking might as well install it. The seal for the cam sensor is inserted behind the cam shaft shutter?

If you want to drain all the capacitors are you disconnecting negative and positive then jumping the cables as i call it?

 

[Holiday]

If you want to drain all the capacitors are you disconnecting negative and positive then jumping the cables as i call it?

I just took off the negative terminal and let the car sit for 10 minutes.

 

[Holiday]

I did a wiggle wire test of all the wires I could see and reach and nothing came of it. All grounding wires I could see were solid connections. I do have random starting issues again. I'll update when I've changed out the cam sensor. I also have to do a KOER test to se if that produces any notable results.

 

[Holiday]

Update:

Changed out the cam sensor. Seems to have had a positive effect though I need to drive around a bit more to confirm. Car so far starts up instantly and steady in power delivery.

 

[luigisho]

How was the oil back there?

 

[zoomlater]

hopefully there was no oil in there or you will be replacing the cam sensor again in the future

 

[FastCAD]

your new cam sensor probably took care of the erratic firing (code 212). I hope you were able to replace the oiled-up seal too.

The "surging" problem usually comes from the (I)dle (A)ir (B)ipass behind the throttle body (no code). It suffers from carbon buildup just like the throttle body.
A good throttle body cleaner will help with this both inside the TB and IAB. Make sure that the wire connections to the IAB are secure on both ends.
If u replace the IAB do not $(chinch)$ on this part ie; 3L-dohc buy a quality unit like Delphi or equivalent.
best to ya.