Fault Code 19 Help (89 SHO)

[Marccus]

Received Fault Code 19 during KOEO test. Description is "No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM".

Located pins 37 and 57 on Engine Wiring Diagrams. Pin 37 is circuit:

37 16 Y AB from computer (E9DB-14A464-DB)

This is not written like the example on how to decipher the circuit in terms of wire color, gage, etc.

But I'm assuming this means: Pin 37, 16 gage wire, solid Yellow color and I don't know what AB means!

In any event, this circuit splits into 37 Y 14 AB, which goes to the correspondig wiring harness female "pin" 37 on the firewall side, and two 14 ga yellow wires to part number (connector?) E7EB-14A624-DA, exits the mating connector (?), E7EB-14A464-FA as two wires 37 14 Y AB, then to circuit 302 20 DB B (which is the 20 ga. fusible link), exits the link as 37 12 Y AB, then to E7DB-14A464-LA, which connects to 14300 (battery +).

I've never understood what that little red wire from the (+) battery cable through the fusible link to a connector on an "aluminun cylinder" is for.

But that circuit seems to be OK.

Also pin 57 is just a wire to chassis ground which is also OK.

Does this mean that the problem is`a "bad" PCM and I need a new computer (E9DB-14A464-EB)?

I need to replace the MAP also as error code 22 showed up. Otherwise the car runs fine.

I get a hestitation and loss of power when starting from stop - almost got blown away by a Kia.

I'm hoping that replacing the MAP will solve this.

Thanks for any help.

 

[sdpatt]

The descriptions I have for code 19 point to the cylinder identification (CID, camshaft) sensor.

SHOtimes: CID circuit failed.

Dali Design: 19 (O) No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis
(R) Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures
Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem

The Wells F134 CID sensor is available from AutoZone for $29.99. It is secured to the rear bank exhaust camshaft by two, 5.5mm (7/32") bolts.

 

[projectSHO89]

See my post in your other thread on this same issue for more info.

One thread per subject is adequate.

Steve

 

[Marccus]

I replaced the cam shaft sensor when I replaced the rear cam seal. The engine check light came on before I changed the seal and the sensor.

However, no more oil leak down on the pulleys and subframe mount and all over the driveway!!

After putting in the new seal and new sensor, the light remained on but I only ran the KOEO and KEOR tests after the new parts were installed.

Therefore, I'm assuming that fault code 19 didn't refer to the CID, but to the pins as noted in dalidesign.com. But these circuits check out OK. Maybe I need to trace them in more detail and dig into specific splices/locations on the wiring.

Then too, maybe everything will go away after the new MAP sensor is installed even though one has nothing to do with the other. Stranger things have happened about seemingly unrelated phenomena affecting one another.

Regarding the new message, I made a separate new post because I wasn't getting any additional replies to the other post. I thought if I specifically stated the code error in the subject heading, others would contribute and help solve my dilemna.

Thanks.

 

[Marccus]

Scott,

I forgot to state that fault code 19 only appeared during the KOEO test. The KOER test gave a code of 11, which means everything is OK.

Therefore, the reference to the CID problem in dalidesign under (R) i.e. KOER test, doesn't apply. Rather the statement for (O) (KOEO test) of problems with pins 37 + 57 would apply.

I guess that makes things more puzzling.

Thanks.

 

[rangerj]

Marccus,

See 94SHOATX re code 19. The same suggestion applies to you. rangerj

 

[Marccus]

OK. Thanks. I'll check the circuit using the wiring diagram and a digital multimeter. I'm assuming I just check continuity throughout the circuit. If nothing shows up, then it might be an intermittant problem with a connector or splice, etc.

 

[rangerj]

Marcgus,


Now your talking. Wiggle the wires while your testing. If there is a poor connection it will be more likely to sho (sic) up this way.

The CID sensor can be tested with a LED tester point at the pin that sends the signal through the DIS to the coil, and the other end at a good ground such as the battery negative post.

Disconnect the coil and have a helper crank the engine. The LED should flash as the sensor sends the signal. If it does not, the sensor is bad.

I think you can use the digital meter to do this test also. You want to be very careful about sending voltage through the sensors. Most of them are low voltage units, and can be fried by battery voltage, that is 12 to 14 volts. LOL rangerj

 

[projectSHO89]

I think you can use the digital meter to do this test also. You want to be very careful about sending voltage through the sensors. Most of them are low voltage units, and can be fried by battery voltage, that is 12 to 14 volts. LOL rangerj

All meters only output a current during resistance mesurements. During voltage or current measurements, the meter outputs nothing, but acts as either a parallel or series load to the circuit, depending on mode.

If the digital meter has a diode test fuction, this function must be on in order for the output current to generate a voltage drop across the load of more than .6 V. Old syle analog meters such as the classic Simpson 360 could generate a high voltage across the load, most modern digital meters use much smaller currents and do not normally pose any risk of circuit damage.

Yes, I did military electronics including ATE (27B - automatic test equipment over 20 years ago).

Steve

 

[Marccus]

Well, I have a Fluke 89IV Multimeter. I use it a lot for my audio gear - mostly tube equipment.

But I am embarassed to tell the following story:

I was checking a line to the battery to see if the line was live after it passed through a connector. The continuity function on the meter buzzes when the probes are inserted into two different points on the line and the line is not open or shorted, i.e continuous.

I pierced one part of the line which was connected to the battery with one probe. I took the other probe and tried to pierce a point after the connector. It was very difficult to pierce. Finally in frustration I jammed the probe in very hard, pierced through the wire entirely, and came out the other side with the point of the probe being jammmed into the METAL support on top of the radiator.

POW! oh_my oh_my oh_my

After a flash and smoke, only about 1/4" of a 3" long probe was left! eek! Holy shit, Batman. That was dumb. But the meter was/is OK. I need a new probe.