Extreem pull to the rite during hard ecceleration.

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Chuck Laughner

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During hard eccelleration she pulls hard to the rite. I'm not talkin about drifting it's all i can do to keep her on the road. Called my mechanic friend and he said to check the (PSPS) power steering pressure switch. So i ran a diao test and sure enough the code popped up. Before I go and spend$$$$$$$$$ Has anyone had this problem before???

<small>[ February 25, 2004, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: Chuck Laughner ]</small>
 

Dr.Evil

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Check your front passenger brake and make sure the caliper isn't locked/always applying pressure to that rotor.
 

Chuck Laughner

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I checked the brakes this afternoon all is good their. The problem has now progressed. Now when I eccelerate hard it's like the steering wheel has a mind of it's own, it pulls from side to side. Their is also a low pitched squeal coming from the right front side? Man this car has been a headache since day one. What do you think????
 

AutoSHO

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Not that extreme. You need to take your car to a shop and get an alignment. Sounds like you have severely worn subframe bushings, or something is broken.
 

SHOPWR

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my rear swaybar link bolt broke and my rear swaybar was disconected and i got new links and that fixed what i thought was an enormous amount of torque steer at first.
 

SHOracer14

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Check outer tie rods. The bushings were horrible but after I slid into a curb in the snow I had a huge problem like yours. Any time I would mash it or takeoff it would drift uncontrollably and then when you'd go to correct it would float the other way. I replaced my outer tie-rods and all is well now. While ur down there check the ball joint/lower control arm bushing, and halfshafts.

<small>[ February 26, 2004, 12:53 AM: Message edited by: SHOracer14 ]</small>
 

DHMag

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sounds like torque steer to me. thats how i do left to right lane changes from a stop light. even after i let it steer into the right lane, im still pulling left on the steering wheel.
 

Bizzy

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Several things can cause this to happen. Torque steer, yes, but this sounds extreme. Bad subframe bushings are a classic cause for torque steer. Bad motor mounts can contribute as well.

Do this to check the bushings:
Have your car on at idle on a flat surface, hood up. Turn your steering wheel from lock to lock while watching the motor. Does it twist/torque from left to right? If so your bushings are toast. When they're starting to go you'll get some movement, when they're gone all the way the movement will be noticable.

Testing the motor mounts:
While sitting in your car with the motor on, hood up, put your car in first gear and hold down on the brake. Slowly let out on the clutch giving the car a little gas (don't let the car roll forward) and watch the motor. Does it lift? Do the same for reverse. Does it lift? If so, you've got yourself some bad front or rear motor mounts. (or both)

Those are the things I'd personally check first. It's free to check and there is no guessing. If the motor flexes back and forth when turning the steering wheel or lifts up in the front or rear when doing the 1st/reverse test it's the mounts. Both of which can and will cause extreme torque steer (scary dangerous at times). I know because I've experienced it firsthand on my own car. (Ask Huntervf how scary it was when my motor flexed when I had my 60k done.)

After that steering components, etc. Keep us posted on what happens.

<small>[ February 26, 2004, 08:46 AM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>
 

munkee

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You shouldn't have any torque steer with the sho. I can take my hand off the wheel and floor it without changing lanes. If you have torque steer either something or things are worn out or broken or you have a lot more power than the car came with stock. Is the squeal when you're driving or all the time. Does it sound like brake squeal or something else? What was the code you got?
 

SHODWN

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Check the SFB they could be an issue. Check to see that the bolt did not pull the subframe. Make sure you dont have Bruces Bushings in there.

I also had a car that had the ball joint pinch bolt wear so badly that the ball joint would almost pull out of the knuckle. I think it was a SLO control arm and the normal pinch bolt was replaced with a normal threaded bolt, the threads wore away and it wore out the knuckle..

It only did it under acceralterion.

Jack the car up, put it on a stand and get a pry bar to check play in the ball joint. put inbetween the LCA and the subframe and push down. Now before people say that you can just lift up to check slack, for moast cases this is correct, but in this one it was not.. Very weird..

You should have little to NO movement when you pry down in the LCA.. This car would go left and it was the left Ball joint/Knuckle,LCA combo that needed to be replaced.

<small>[ February 26, 2004, 09:52 AM: Message edited by: SHODWN ]</small>
 

Chuck Laughner

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Ok here is what I got so far. 1.Sub frame bushings bad. Engine moves from side to side, hence the circle ingravement on my battery from the alternater. :mad:
2.Motor mounts bad, front and rear. It tips forward and backwards madflame
And as far as the squeek coming from the passinger side????????????? I have not had alot of time to get under it and check, I will do that this afternoon. What sucks is I spent all my extra cash buying this car and i have no money to work on it. oh Is this An emergency fix now kind of thing, as far as the sub frame bushings if i drive it real easy? How much should I expect to dish out for them? And how difficult are they to change? "I'm so frustrated with this car rite now I cant stand it,it's about to find it's way to the crusher" OOPS!!! did I say that out loud? Anyway thanks for the help on how to test this thing you guys... and ladies :) I will sure keep you posted on my proggres.
 

Bizzy

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Chuck, the first thing to cover would be the bushings. They are the most dangerous when they go bad IMO. My suggestion would to get some of Bryan King's aluminum SFB's, they're not that expensive and easily replaced. Something to also consider is checking to see if the subframe plate nut recall has been done on your car. You are, I believe, considered to bein the rust belt and this is done at no charge to you at any Ford stealership that has a service department. You can call any stealership and have them run your VIN to see if this has been done or not if you're not sure. You could have the new bushings put on there if you have a decent working relationship with them if you don't feel like doing the work yourself.

Honestly, you really don't want to drive with either bad, but I drove with bad bushings (I didn't know it at the time) for a long long time as well as motor mounts. You just have to take it easy, especially now that you know you have a problem. I don't think that in the beginning stages the mounts will hurt too much, but eventually you're going to get rub marks on your intake that won't rub out, and they will eventually propose a safety issue.

We all get frustrated with our cars at times. But keep in mind that it is an older car so things are going to wear out no matter how good the outside looks. Also keep in mind that it is no different than any other car....they all break, all parts cost money, just that ours tend to be a little more expensive for the SHO specific ones is all.

Good luck with it all, keep us posted. At least now you have a better clue as to what the problems could be and a goal to reach. After you do the bushings and motor mounts, don't neglect to have the steering components checked, especially if you still have torque steer.
 

ckinart

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Chuck,

In addition to Bizzy's thorough comments, you may want to look here and/or here for some good information on subframe bushing replacement. It's not too difficult of a job, but like Bizzy said, if you can get Ford to do it for you I'm sure that would be ideal. I looked up Brian King for you, he's Member #1706, and his email is [email protected] (Brian, I hope you don't mind me posting this).

As for motor mounts, here is a little more info on their replacement.

Hope this is helpful. Good luck! thumb

<small>[ February 27, 2004, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: ckinart ]</small>
 

Bizzy

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Also look here for the group buy on Bryan's SFB's. The price is right and the quality is outstanding. I just got mine yesterday and WOW! is all I can say.
 

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