SH
f_SD:
There are no replaceable donuts, They Y pipe has to be taken loose, I have found that it helps to put some grease on the mating surfaces, also when you put it back together tighten the bolt alternatly so you don't overtighten one side and not the other
What? No replacement donuts? Not on the exhaust manifold to Y-pipe joints, but there sure is at the ****** from the Y-pipe to the cat-back pipe. The exhaust ****** gasket can be found as the Walker 31372, the Fel-Pro 60641 and the ROL EG24807, all for about $5-$6.
That will solve the leak if it is at the cat-back ******, but it will require a re-seating of the Y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds if the leak(s) is at that gasketless joint. I have used the ultra high temperature Permatex silicone at this joint and find that it does not burn away. Amazing.
Now, regarding the CHECK ENGINE light: read the codes. Don't guess. Something is amiss in the engine control system and the engine computer is tryting to tell you what it is. Go to the
Dali Design site and learn how simple and quick and simple (and free) it is to retrieve the codes.
You may chose to take the car back to the shop if the fix involves any disassembly, but most likely it is something that just wasn't installed correctly. The only way to know for sure is read the codes.
Regarding the metallic noise when you press the clutch, you will probably notice that this diminishes as the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers get to know each other better. I installed my own clutch and all wear items and had the
same situation. I knew I had installed and adjusted everthing correctly.
As the parts break-in, you need to pull up on the clutch pedal with about 10 pounds of force to ensure that the clutch cable is properly tensioned. The Ford manual says to do this every 5,000 miles, but there is no penalty for checking the cable tension more frequently. The noise will decrease with time and miles.
<small>[ April 23, 2003, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
