well now that its freaking cold as balls out (low 30s currently). i finally need to use the heater. but if i have it on auto the engine simply will never heat up. no matter what. so i try keepin it off and freezing my ass off for 10 min. then it gets right up there, at least 1/2 way on the temp guage. so im like yay! heater time! turn it on, and you could freakin watch the temp drop. well not really but within a coulple min its about on the blue mark. dont think its a thermostat since it does heat up fine normally. so im like what the ****, either be nice and toasty and drive like a panzy. or freeze my self and have fun. i usually opt to just wearing some gloves and a jacket, and having fun. but it would be really nice to be able to drive hard and be warm. plus the g/f doesnt like no heater... i do realize that the heater does help cool the engine off, but this is just crazy...
engine wont stay hot w/ heater on
- Thread starter laxmax327
- Start date
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NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
Until you put a real temp gauge on it, you will have to assume that it is indeed warming up properly. The stock gauge is not acurate, by any means.
FYI, when my mechanical gauge reads 185 degrees (fully warm), my stock gauge is BARELY off of the cold peg.
FYI, when my mechanical gauge reads 185 degrees (fully warm), my stock gauge is BARELY off of the cold peg.
o... lol well i see... hrm... so you think its ok to drive it hard then after lettin it warm up regardless of that damn guage? i knew that thing was far from accurate, but i didnt think it was that bad. or should i really just invest in a temp guage?
NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
If the heater blows warm after a few minutes of driving, the motor is getting warm. If not, you could have a T-stat that is stuck open.
But as I said, the only way to REALLY know, is to find out how warm it is acually getting. That means attaching a gauge to it, or using a mechanics thermometer.
But as I said, the only way to REALLY know, is to find out how warm it is acually getting. That means attaching a gauge to it, or using a mechanics thermometer.
yea the heater does work great, car will get very warm very fast. so i guess its fine to drive it then. if it constantly blows hot air, do you think it is necessary to buy a new gauge? and if i do, do i have any other options than that 70 dollar gauge pod from midwest? just too much money...
greenbeanmtx
King Skidmark
i just installed a sunpro water gauge and i bought a universal pod from some place online. I got a single and a dual universal pod and im fitting them together. But thats a whole different story. My car runs right at 180 under normal driving, on the factory gauge that was hardly even registering. After aggressive aggressive driving it gets about 200ish on my new gauge which was half way on the factory. I wont rely on factory gauges anymore now that i see how inaccurate they are. The collective total for the pods i ordered was 30 bucks and i got all electric sunpro water, volt, and oil pressure gauges. Right now all ive got installed is the water gauge and im very pleased. They were roughly 23 bucks a piece from jcwhitney.
greenbeanmtx
King Skidmark
laxmax327 said:
Yea thats a good idea. Im doing these 3 because i rather see a real gauge instead of a dummy light. Plus i find the oil pressure to be pretty crucial and a dummy light set at 5psi just isnt good enough for me. Plus it looks really cool
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Your thermostat is stuck open. I'm dealing with the same crap with my less than 2 year old Motorcraft unit. 
Until you replace it, use the VENT setting. It'll prevent the A/C compressor from coming on, and keep the fan off, which is what's causing the engine not to reach operating temperature.
Until you replace it, use the VENT setting. It'll prevent the A/C compressor from coming on, and keep the fan off, which is what's causing the engine not to reach operating temperature.
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shoebilly
Guest
Coolant Low.
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Low coolant would trigger the LOW COOLANT light.
S
shoebilly
Guest
If the engine is running hot BECAUSE of low coolant, the coolant res. will be full Becuase it keeps spitting out coolant into it keeping it full. The overflow coolant originates at the top of the res. Therefore it will read full, if it in fact coolant switch works right. What the temp gauge doing? You say it reads cool? Does it fluctuate? I trying to tell someone something. If there is an air pocket in the cooling systen IT CAN READ COLD. What does the heater do? sometimes hot sometimes cold? IMO.. low coolant for what ever reason.Racer X said:
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Read his first post to answer your questions.
The car reaches normal operating temperature, and when AUTO is selected, the temp drops back into the blue.
Now, why I think it's the thermostat is this:
When you select AUTO, the A/C is requested. When this happens, the fan switches on, which will cool the radiator as well as the A/C condenser. Normally, when the coolant falls below 80C or so, the thermostat will close fully, bypassing the radiator, and maintaining the proper engine temperature. In this case, the thermostat is not closing fully (I feel), allowing the cooled engine coolant to continue flowing, dropping the engine temperature well below the correct temperature, which would also account for the loss in heat.
Also, when the engine is low on coolant, it will actually draw from the coolant reservoir, even when the engine is at temperature. The LOW COOLANT light will come on long before there's enough air in the system to produce an air pocket. Like at startup. However, you are right in that this is contingent on the LC warning circuit actually working properly.
The car reaches normal operating temperature, and when AUTO is selected, the temp drops back into the blue.
Now, why I think it's the thermostat is this:
When you select AUTO, the A/C is requested. When this happens, the fan switches on, which will cool the radiator as well as the A/C condenser. Normally, when the coolant falls below 80C or so, the thermostat will close fully, bypassing the radiator, and maintaining the proper engine temperature. In this case, the thermostat is not closing fully (I feel), allowing the cooled engine coolant to continue flowing, dropping the engine temperature well below the correct temperature, which would also account for the loss in heat.
Also, when the engine is low on coolant, it will actually draw from the coolant reservoir, even when the engine is at temperature. The LOW COOLANT light will come on long before there's enough air in the system to produce an air pocket. Like at startup. However, you are right in that this is contingent on the LC warning circuit actually working properly.
While it's great you're trying to tell someone something, providing them with misinformation is of no benefit to them or anyone else.
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shoebilly
Guest
I really do gvafk if your a moderator or not , for you to say I am giving misinformation is irresponible be cause this is a valid point of view, a possible cause, not your personal point of view. I am speaking from experience. This forum has issues, ............Racer X said:
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shoebilly
Guest
I'll be back
S
shoebilly
Guest
I might be right huckwr
S
shoebilly
Guest
racerx is a punk
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shoebilly
Guest
I'm not wearing a helmet.
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
I'm not a mod here. 
All the same... chill out bro; it's really not that serious. You have your opinion, I have mine. I feel you're wrong on this matter, which is why I responded the way I did. That's all. I'm speaking from experience also; this car has given me damn near every cooling issue you could think of in the past two years, not to mention the other cars I've worked on in the past.
This is pretty much the last post you'll see out of me in this thread, all the same. I'll just wait until the original poster comes back with his conclusion.
All the same... chill out bro; it's really not that serious. You have your opinion, I have mine. I feel you're wrong on this matter, which is why I responded the way I did. That's all. I'm speaking from experience also; this car has given me damn near every cooling issue you could think of in the past two years, not to mention the other cars I've worked on in the past.
This is pretty much the last post you'll see out of me in this thread, all the same. I'll just wait until the original poster comes back with his conclusion.
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