Engine Spitting And Sputtering (Video Attached)

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sabremike21

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Hey guys, as I'm going to state in my video my car for some reason just started spitting and sputtering after I did some work to it just basic tune up and I'm not sure why I hope and maybe I can get some insight.

Th 20150902 181636
 

rubydist

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First, pull the codes to see what is stored in there.

Second, double check the plug wire routing to make sure its right - a lot of diagrams have it wrong, so use the one from this site.

Let us know what you find.
 

sabremike21

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Well got it to run long enough to pull codes, but I thought after 91 or 92 it was supposed to be 3 digit codes. Codes were 41 61 21 16 15 91 and 67.
Again I know the wires are in correct order, only pulled one at a time. But I'll double check anyway just for ***** and giggles.
 

zoomlater

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Did you recheck all your sensor connections?
What kind of spark plugs did you use?
Can you measure the fuel pressure?
 
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sabremike21

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Thought I was pretty clear, but I'll repeat myself.
Plugs, wires, fuel filter, oil change. Air filter was done last week. The car ran fine until I welded my muffler back on and changed the fuel filter.
 

zoomlater

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Sorry, I updated my post after I listened to your video clip. I'll assume the fuel filter is pointed in the right direction. If you are getting enough fuel pressure at the Schrader valve, then you can rule that out.
 

sabremike21

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Yeah fuel filter in correct direction. I have pressure at the Schrader valve, but I'll have to do a pressure test later. I used autolite ap3924 plugs, all connections are tight and clean.


Curious if a bad battery could cause any of these issues? Or bad alternator?
 

sabremike21

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The weird part is after about 15 minutes it will start up after 10 seconds of cranking and idle rough at about 500 rpm, sounding like it's not firing on all cylinders, but the moment I touch the gas it pops and dies.
 

sabremike21

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I am going to try a new DIS module tomorrow and see if that is the problem. I had an extra one and tried it but with the same results however this one being just as old could also be bad. I'll let you know if that fixes the issue. Otherwise I am going to pull the injectors and install the purple tops I have sitting here and see if that does anything.
 

SHOdded

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You have a 94 mtx, right? Codes should be 3 digit if the PCM (code X2J) is original to the car. Could be someone installed a pre-92 PCM as a replacement though. So I'd check to make sure.

Check DIS, but also that it is properly greased on the backside, and that the bolts & electrical connectors are properly installed. Check also the grounding strap that runs from the passenger rear side of the intake to the firewall. Can't miss it.

I assume not in running enough condition to run fuel injection cleaner through the system.
 

sabremike21

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Yes a 94 mtx, and that is what I thought as well that I should be getting 3 digit codes. I'll have to look at the pcm and see if it's the original or what not. And yeah, was going to run seafoam but can't get it to run well enough.
I'm going to check a few things tomorrow and try the DIS and we will see what happens.
 

rubydist

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What kind of welder did you use to weld on the muffler? Did you disconnect battery and pcm connector before you welded? Because if you used any type of arc welder without disconnecting the pcm, you most likely killed the pcm.

I don't think those are the right codes. When you pull codes, it will flash the current codes, repeat them, then flash a single separator flash, then the stored codes and repeat them. Each section is reported from lowest number to highest number. Since the numbers you typed in do not follow that format, they are suspect. Please pull them again or make a video and post it so we can read them.
 

sabremike21

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Used a 110 mig, been welding exhaust a long time and never had and issue with not unhooking the battery or pcm before. Unless there is something different with the SHO that should not have effected anything.
 

SHOdded

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So it starts up/idles fine with the replacement DIS? It sounds like an aftermarket exhaust/cams is on it. Already done some of the 3.2 into 3.0 work? Can you re-pull codes/make video as rubydist suggested? Also check the PCM strategy code.

Clogged fuel filter, dying fuel pump, bad IAC, or bad MAF/TPS would be on my list also.
 

sabremike21

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I haven't touched the motor minus the tune up yet, so if anyone else has done so already I couldn't tell you for sure except it doesn't look like anyone has pulled off the valve covers in years if ever so I doubt the cams are different than stock 3.0s. Going to do a fuel pressure test and go on from there with the sensors.
 

Racer X

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How does it run with the MAF unplugged, and do the symptoms change any with the MAF unplugged?
 

luigisho

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Unless you fried something electronic, the problem would seem to be related to the work you just did. I would look again at the coil pack to spark plug wire routing again (happens more than you think where you're sure it's correct but it's not), fuel filter orientation, and maybe the exhaust has something plugging it up and choking it out.
 
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