Engine running sh*tty for first 5 mins

[Hurricane350]

As the subject implys, my car runs pretty crappy for the first 5 minutes until she is warm. Most recently, I just fixed a problem that has plagued her for the past two years. It was running on 5 cylinders and it turned out the 6th cyl wasn't firing. I replaced the spark plug wire and bam shes running like a champ. I let the computer reset by leaving the battery unhooked overnight and I reset the idle program. Of course now I have this last problem... the first 5 mins or so she still runs like crap (sputtering, stumbling) and then after shes warmed up, she runs like a bat out of ****! I mean she runs absolutely perfect. Is there something specific to a cold running engine I can check for? Do MTX have EGR?

 

[Slo-Sho]

MTX SHO's don't have an EGR system. When was the last time you cleaned your IAB? Is there any oil in your spark plug wells?

 

[SHONUT91]

MTX sho's do have an EGR system and it could be that it is gummed up.The nostrils in your intake could also get gummed up.However usally when these sort of problems occur you will get a check engine light.I recommend running your codes again during the first five minutes after start up when she is running rough and see if any codes come up.If no codes are present then you are troubleshooting once again,their are alot of reasons why it could be doing this and narrowing it down is half the fun of getting to know your baby.Keep us informed.You can also use the search function and find out if anybody else has had a similiar problem.

 

[Shoman94]

SHONUT91:
MTX sho's do have an EGR system and it could be that it is gummed up.The nostrils in your intake could also get gummed up.However usally when these sort of problems occur you will get a check engine light.I recommend running your codes again during the first five minutes after start up when she is running rough and see if any codes come up.If no codes are present then you are troubleshooting once again,their are alot of reasons why it could be doing this and narrowing it down is half the fun of getting to know your baby.Keep us informed.You can also use the search function and find out if anybody else has had a similiar problem.

er...ehhh////only California models.

 

[Hurricane350]

Ok, so what is it? Do I have EGR or not? I have a 95 MTX purchased originally in ME. (so not a CA model) Also, no oil in the plug wells. I did the 120K myself and cleaned the intake quite extensively and cleaned the IAB at the same time. Of course I was running on 5 cylinders for like 10Kmiles and a year since, so... whoknows? I just don't understand why it runs/idles so perfect after she is warm and not before.

<small>[ July 20, 2002, 05:10 PM: Message edited by: Hurricane350 ]</small>

 

[Shoman94]

Hurricane350:
Ok, so what is it? Do I have EGR or not? I have a 95 MTX purchased originally in ME. (so not a CA model) Also, no oil in the plug wells. I did the 120K myself and cleaned the intake quite extensively and cleaned the IAB at the same time. Of course I was running on 5 cylinders for like 10Kmiles and a year since, so... whoknows? I just don't understand why it runs/idles so perfect after she is warm and not before.

Then no you do not have an EGR...only ATX's and CA-MTX's.
Since you pull no check engine light. I'm assumming you ran the codes? Have you replaced your sparkplugs? During the warm up cycle, extra fuel is being sent into the combustion area, your plug gap might be to large now or the platinum tips me be worn off. Thes plugs are not designed to last more then 10-15 thousand miles. Install new Ford double platinum plugs and gap them at .042-.046. I recommend .042 due to age on the plugs enlarging the gap.
Good Luck!

 

[Hurricane350]

Update: still no codes since I reset the computer.(07/19) It isn't necessarily binded to time (5 mins) so much as it runs good once it hits the "L" in Normal. Maybe I'll just replace the coil pack, spark-plug wires, and spark-plugs. At least then I'll know its not a spark problem! I needed an excuse to powdercoat my intake anyways...

<small>[ July 25, 2002, 07:59 PM: Message edited by: Hurricane350 ]</small>

 

[bigdaddy]

Have you checked your coolant temp sensor? It screws into the water housing next to the thermostat,it has a two wire connector.It receives a reference voltage of 5 volts from the computer,depending on your coolant temp it will send back to the computer something less than 5v.It tells the computer to richen the mixture when the engine is cold and to lean it out when its warm like a choke.When a CTS fails its usually on the cold side which will make your engine run like crap untill it warms up,about 5 min.GOOD LUCK!!!!