engine oil

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waldo

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Hmmm, I live in Oklahoma City, what should i use year round, 5w-30 or 10w-30? Thanks for all the info Gents!
 

rubydist

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Use 0W30 or 5W30, never 10W30. The 10Wxx gets way more thick when its cold, which is when the majority of engine wear occurs. Using 10Wxx gains you nothing and costs you engine wear.
 

GR8WYT

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Use 0W30 or 5W30, never 10W30. The 10Wxx gets way more thick when its cold, which is when the majority of engine wear occurs. Using 10Wxx gains you nothing and costs you engine wear.

Sorry, have to disagree. I've run Castrol GTX 10W30 in my car since go ( 1992 ) and have not had a lick of trouble. Just as a matter of precaution I changed the rod bearings last year before the convention and there was virtually no wear on them. At all. I could have kept them. My car has ~ 160,000 miles on it and was, up until 2004, a DD.

Ford recommends 10W30 as an alternative weight for these engines, so if it's good for them, it's good for us. :salute:
 

kikkinasphalt

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IIRC the SM rated oil's are the energy conserving oils which all tend to be low in zink and phosphorous (some of the main friction modifiers) because that stuff burns up the cats faster. They don't want the cats crumbling and falling out the exhaust pipe and into the environment which is why they now make these oils. However new vehicles are meant to be run with these oils, where as old style flat tappet type vehicles need more lubrication. Maybe the sho is not AS effected as old old vehicles, but run an SM oil (like mobile one) in a 60's muscle car with a flat tappet cam, and you wont have a camshaft very long, ask me how I know.


what they take out, they replace with something else.

we have had this discussion. there was an entire thread on this subject in which i also stated that BITOG and Valvolines oil guru Gary Galick both said that the SM oils are just as good at reducing friction as they were before.

hes not asking about a 60's flat tappet cam. hes asking about his SHO. and for his SHO any oil at the recommend viscosity is ok.
 

gsilva

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In my Buick that I run 10W-40 in I don't have a choke because it interferes with the aftermarket air cleaner. It gets in the 20's almost ever night and sometimes in the teens in the winter here. In the winter its a little harder to start but not much and a little longer to warm up then in the summer. Amsoil in not like a petroleum, I doesn't thicken up like a petroleum when it gets cold. So the engine turns over a lot easier and starts up faster and runs better after it starts. Amsoil also circulates a lot faster. Which means you also don't have the wear that you get with petroleum when its cold.
 

nothingtoseehere

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I love these discussions. Change your oil regularly with a quailty oil and you are fine. If you want an extended change use Amsoil or something similar. My V8 ran mainly Motorcraft but really, whatever was on the shelf and is well over 210K miles at this point.
 

Rockledge

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IIRC the SM rated oil's are the energy conserving oils which all tend to be low in zink and phosphorous (some of the main friction modifiers) because that stuff burns up the cats faster. They don't want the cats crumbling and falling out the exhaust pipe and into the environment which is why they now make these oils. However new vehicles are meant to be run with these oils, where as old style flat tappet type vehicles need more lubrication. Maybe the sho is not AS effected as old old vehicles, but run an SM oil (like mobile one) in a 60's muscle car with a flat tappet cam, and you wont have a camshaft very long, ask me how I know.
I switched to Rotella-T 5W-40 a few years ago when I found out that diesel-rated oils still have a healthy dose of zinc and phosphorus in them.
 

Devin

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I use Castrol GTX 5W-30. Couldn't tell you if it is any better or worse than anything else out there.
 

gsilva

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I switched to Rotella-T 5W-40 a few years ago when I found out that diesel-rated oils still have a healthy dose of zinc and phosphorus in them.

Thats why I use Amsoil's 10W-40 because it has the zinc & phosphorus additives.
 

Bannonjr

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Thats why I use Amsoil's 10W-40 because it has the zinc & phosphorus additives.

Ya the AMO has a really good protection level

Me personally, I went with the AMSOIL SSO 0w-30...I like the additive package and the TBN...plus being up here I like the long range temp protection...

I also flushed it and used an Amsoil filter....:swing:
 

yamahaSHO

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The only synthetic oil I would recommend NOT using is Mobil 1. BITOG members have found that it runs thin and doesn't hold viscosity very well over time. I just happen to be running M1 when I spun a bearing. My personal take is that it just didn't hold up to the abuse I put it through.

I have since gone to Shell Rotella T for both my SHO and STi. My daily driver's get Penzoil Platinum.
 
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gsilva

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I use 10W-40 for now because my cam seals leak like crazy. I need to fix them before the next airport run. Then I'm think of going back to 0W-30 to get more HP.
 

yamahaSHO

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0w-30 over 10w-40 isn't going to give you any type of noticable gain. Run the oil spec'd for your engine and protect it.
 

gsilva

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I've been checking millage on my cars sense about 1968 when I was curious as to what my Mustang 390 GT fastback was getting. A car which I wish I never got rid of. The top end was about the same as a SHO but it would get there a **** of a lot faster.
 

tardboy21

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I've been checking millage on my cars sense about 1968 when I was curious as to what my Mustang 390 GT fastback was getting. A car which I wish I never got rid of. The top end was about the same as a SHO but it would get there a **** of a lot faster.

was it a 3.0 *** engine with a mazda tranny as well? ;)
 
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