engine not revvin right

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96lt1

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the problem with the alternator was that the "post" where the (ground??) wire clides on was loose and spinning freely. unfortunately i didnt find this out until after i spent time putting it on the car and hooking everything up.
 

96lt1

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luigi, so what u r saying is that with my luck i will have broken nuts and bolts and a bigger headache. cant wait. i think i am gonna rebuild my 72 dart instead, at least i feel like i know what i am doin with that.
 

shojuan

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96lt1:
luigi, so what u r saying is that with my luck i will have broken nuts and bolts and a bigger headache. cant wait. i think i am gonna rebuild my 72 dart instead, at least i feel like i know what i am doin with that.
No, no worries like that. Yeah the valve cover bolts can break and it has happened to those who haven't taken care upon reassembly. As long as you have a torque wrench that works in the proper range you should have no problems with those bolts whatsoever. You're going to need torque wrenches to rebuild your 72 dart properly anyways. Just get them, treasure them, and use them.

Rick
 

luigisho

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You shouldn't let that scare you. Just something to keep in mind during the project. It's not that hard- just tighten to 'snug' and not 'really tight' if those terms are helpful. The stuff is aluminum so you have to be more aware that's all. You get the benefit of all our mistakes.

If you were to watch the 60k video you would see how easy it is to do yourself.

Now get them parts and get to work. thumbs_u
 

1992blackmtx

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hey where are you from in ohio? and you figure out what is wrong with your car yet? i am having the same problem, from 2k-2.5k it suck ass, but after that it is just fine.... i replaced my tps and did not fix it at all. good luck, scott
 

96lt1

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hey, i am from Ashland Ohio, about an hour down I71 frin Cleveland. as for the problem u and i r havin..... i have learned a few things in the past few day. i know my throttle position sensor is bad. i also found oil in my plug wells when i pulled the plug wires out. check that because the SHO Shop told me that could cause the wires to arc in the oil. now i havent driven it to see if fixing these things worked or not yet becuse my alternator is bad and i had to order it, it will be in friday. i plan on putting the alternator in on saturday and c if the thing runs right so stay tuned.......
 

96lt1

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ok, i just realized that i didnt describe the oil in the plugwells in my above post. if u have oil in the plug wells u need to change ure vavle cover gaskets. i am doin that next friday on my day off. as for the TPS, that sux that ures didnt fix the prob but i am hoping mine might.
 

92greensho

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If you have a volt meter, it is very easy to test your TP sensor. Attach your ground clamp
(of the meter) to a good chassis ground. Then probe the positive post of the battery (to
check your battery voltage.) If your battery power is around 12v, turn the key to the
RUN position (engine off). With the ground clamp on the same ground use your positive
probe and back probe the TP sensor wires as they enter the connector. Watch your meter
until you find the wire that is putting out about 1.0 volt. Keep the probes where they are,
and slowly open your throttle. The voltage reading on your meter should climb at a
steady rate all the way up to about 4.5volts. If at any time the voltage gets jumpy, does
not move, or does not raise consistently, you probably have a bad TP sensor.

You could also use an ohm meter, but I don’t know right off hand what the resistance
values are supposed to be.

hope this helps.

Travis
 

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