Engine misfiring, jolting.... STILL

[Corey]

Ok, I took off the MAF today, and cleaned the filaments, although they did not look dirty at all. The car still runs like crap. I am going to change the wires tomarrow to see if that helps, but I have a question. Does anybody know how to test the MAF to see if it is good or not. I ran a test, but I dont know if it was the right way to do it. The chiltons manuel says that you must use some sort of connector to be able to check the voltage. Well I disconnected the plug, ran a jumper wire from the power connector of the plug to the connector on the MAF. I had the car running, and I tested the other three connector pins on the MAF. The two middle pins gave me a .8 volts, and the last pin gave me a zero reading. Has anybody tried this, and if not, will somebody please try it to see if they get the same thing. The chiltons manuel says the voltage when tested with that connector thingy must be between .38 and 1.5 or something like that. I am just trying to eliminate different problem areas. I will let you guys know what happens with the changing of the wires, and if anybody can answere my question about the test it would be appreciated.

Thanks
Corey

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Did you try running with the MAF disconnected? If it still runs poorly in open-loop mode, then you can eliminate the MAF as a cause of the rough running. FWIW, AutoZone should be able to test the MAF for you for free.

In your previous post you mentioned a 211 (PIP/CPS) code, but don't mention replacing it. A failing CPS can often cause the symptoms you're describing, and although it will usually generate a code, I've seen a couple of cases where it didn't.

Short of that, as has often been said, ignition-related problems which do not generate a code can usually be traced to the plugs and/or wires.

 

[Corey]

If the CPS were faulting, wouldnt my Check Engine light be coming on. I dont get a check engine light at all. Also, when I disconnect the the MAF sensor, the car runs pretty much the same exact way, no change. Could that be an implecation that it is the MAF. I am fixing to start changing the wires, I will let you know what happens.

thanks
Corey

 

[SHO--ripper]

If you disconnected the MAF and it ran better you would need a new MAF. Since it runs the same your MAF is most likely all right. If you replace your plugs and wires and it still doesn't run right i think you might need a new CPS. Does your car stall,then not start till it's cool?

 

[Corey]

No, the car doesnt stall. That is why I dont think it is the CPS. I dont get the CEL either. I just put the other plug wires in and this is what happened. I changed the wires but when I put the intake back on I broke one of the vaccume lines to the secondary butterflies. I noticed this after I had gotten everything together. I think I made a mistake though. I cleaned the old wires with starting fluid because it was the only solvent I got. I cleaned them out good, but after I fixed the vaccume line, and put the intake back on, when I started the car it popped. What happend was a plug wire popped out because of the starter fluid residue. I took the car out for a spin and it ran worse than it did right after I changed the wires. Could I have screwed up the wire when it got popped out. I dont know whats up with the thing. I checked the codes (KOEO) and got 111, 122,157, and 542. I am looking into it now. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[HopefulSHO]

Do you have the plug wires plugged in the right locations on the coil pack? I know the Chilton's manual has the diagram wrong.

 

[Corey]

I am pretty sure the plug wires are where they are supposed to be, but where would I find out for sure. I have a chiltons manual, and if you say its wrong, then which way is it supposed to be.

thanks

 

[HopefulSHO]

Check out this old post for the correct plug wire order.
Let's hope it's this simple for ya

 

[SHO--ripper]

I may be mistaken but isn't a 542 a fuel pump failure? i would try replacing that.