engine hesitates, throttle response slow, power down under 4k

[LOUDSHO92]

The one on the passenger side by the grounding strap.

 

[General Geoff]

UPDATE

I went out and started the car today, as I try to run it for a half hour or so and drive it around the block every couple weeks just to keep the fluids running. The idle has started to become slightly erratic. The important thing is that while I was looking over the engine while it was running, I heard something I had not noticed before: a fairly loud clicking noise coming directly from the coil pack. I did a little bit of general research on coil packs, and supposedly a loud electrical clicking noise means something internal to the coil pack has cracked and is causing an electrical short, which may be causing all my problems. I'll see if I can scrounge up some coin to get a new coil pack soon and see if that fixes it.

Anyone know what other cars use the SHO's coil pack type? If it's fairly common I might be able to snag one at the junk yard.

 

[Dirk37]

Check this out, it seems to be quite common

http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/4092299752.html

 

[General Geoff]

Thank you! That's very helpful, I should have no problem finding one at the local bone yard.

 

[93markVIII]

if it actually fits the tbird/cougar, its not a plug and play for the sho. its wired differently.
you can rewire the connector, but don't expect to put it in and have it work.

we pulled one from an 89 cougar and had to rewire for a 92 mtx.

 

[zoomlater]

UPDATE

I went out and started the car today, as I try to run it for a half hour or so and drive it around the block every couple weeks just to keep the fluids running. The idle has started to become slightly erratic. The important thing is that while I was looking over the engine while it was running, I heard something I had not noticed before: a fairly loud clicking noise coming directly from the coil pack. I did a little bit of general research on coil packs, and supposedly a loud electrical clicking noise means something internal to the coil pack has cracked and is causing an electrical short, which may be causing all my problems. I'll see if I can scrounge up some coin to get a new coil pack soon and see if that fixes it.

Anyone know what other cars use the SHO's coil pack type? If it's fairly common I might be able to snag one at the junk yard.

I had a similar no code, underpowered (miss) situation. Over the winter I heard the same clicking coming from the coil pack and when I looked closer, I could see the spark jumping between the wires and coil pack on one of the plugs. I pushed it back in and in seems to run better without the missing. Check to see if the plug wires are pushed in all the way.

 

[kevinspann]

The coil for my 97 Explorer, SOHC was the same. In fact, that's whats still on my car after seeing if it would work.

 

[General Geoff]

new coil pack is in, and new one does not click; off-idle power has improved a bit but still down on power by a good bit. Something else must ALSO be wrong

 

[AREA 91]

Did you check the cats? They could be plugged up.

 

[General Geoff]

I suppose it's possible, any way to check that without disconnecting the exhaust?

 

[kevinspann]

Backpressure gauge in place of the oxygen sensor would be the best thing, but I'm not sure where to get that. Removing the exhaust is the cheapest, at expense of your hearing.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Star-Products-Exhaust-Back-Pressure/dp/B001D315LQ

You could *probably* take the schrader valve out of a compression tester hose, and hook up a lower reading gauge like 0-20psi or so - the exhaust heat would probably **** the hose though.

 

[AREA 91]

Bang on the cats with your fist. Do you hear any rattles?
This will tell you if the material inside is coming apart. A bad thing.
If no noise, I would pull the Y pipe and look inside.

 

[General Geoff]

I'll see if I can get around to unbolting the exhaust to test things. In my mind, it makes sense that it would be clogged cats because that wouldn't throw a code, and would affect the entire power band like it is now.

 

[SHOdded]

This article explains a little about catalytic diagnostics: http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm

With the engine off, you can lightly tap on the converter with a mallet, listening for any rattling sounds that indicate breakage inside.

With the engine running and warmed up, visually check them for a "glowing" or "red hot" condition.

 

[Dirk37]

Another test you can do is with the engine warmed up measure before and after the cat with an Infrared temperature gun. It should be hotter after the cat than before, if it's not that's a sign of a bad cat.

 

[General Geoff]

Tapped both cats with a mallet, neither one had any rattling.

For what it's worth, when cold, if you stab the throttle quickly, the engine RPM dips and almost dies. After warming up a bit, it doesn't dip but also doesn't respond nearly as quickly as it should.

 

[General Geoff]

Also just tested the TPS, it goes from 0.61 ohms at idle to 3.8 ohms at full throttle. I was under the impression that the proper range was 0.69 to 4.5?

 

[SHOdded]

EGR problem? Clogged nostrils/EGR tube?

 

[General Geoff]

I had read that only california 93 MTX cars had EGR?

 

[SHOdded]

My 95 auto had EGR, no clue about the Gen 2 MTX tho. Post a pic of the engine compartment in the vicinity of the intake/master cylinder, and we will know soon enough about yours!