Engine codes and question

[Hvyleaf]

Hey. I have a 95mtx. Runs well. ( slight miss it feels, possibly cat clogged, smelled almost like it, no biggie, I have a high flow cat y pipe to install) -Oil in plug wells. I have all the gaskets I need. (Top and bottom, got rod bearings too)Except for cam seals.
I had my car start bucking on high way. Check engine on. Then off, sometimes steady. Shut it off. Start it, and ran fine for few days. Had similar issues on the road . Same thing, shut down . Start up fine.

Today I had it take a bit to start up.

Looks like
214. Cid.
542Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
557Low speed pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

Unsure how to proceed. I want to order the cam sensor , any recommendations on brand? Is there any other reason the fuel pump codes would arise without it being on the way out? I'll order that if I need. Any input is taken with extensive gratitude. Thanks in advance.

 

[luigisho]

You can get fuel system codes if the car stalls or maybe due to ignition way off. If everything is leaking you may want to pull the cam sensor and see if it is contaminated with oil. It can foul a replacement if the issue is not addressed. As for brand, I used to stick to oem but those are probably in limited circulation. Maybe Motorcraft, Delphi, standard, or borg warner. I'd probably grab a motorcraft DU47 if any are left in the system (probably not)

 

[Hvyleaf]

You can get fuel system codes if the car stalls or maybe due to ignition way off. If everything is leaking you may want to pull the cam sensor and see if it is contaminated with oil. It can foul a replacement if the issue is not addressed. As for brand, I used to stick to oem but those are probably in limited circulation. Maybe Motorcraft, Delphi, standard, or borg warner. I'd probably grab a motorcraft DU47 if any are left in the system (probably not)

Mint. I did stall the car once .. er twice. When I first was getting used to cable clutch again, then once more at a light.
I'm ok with a cam sensor being bad. Even though I have a super coupe performance CPS on the way.. I don't want to HAVE to install it. Thank you very much

(Edit) if seals are leaking, what are the chances I could replace them and clean the sensor? It seems more cost effective to just buy another.

 

[zoomlater]

211 is a for a bad crank position sensor
214 is for a cam position sensor. Check inside the connector to make sure there is only one orange seal. Sometimes when a new cam position sensor get replaced, the orange seal stays inside the connector and ends up resulting in a poor connection (due to two orange seals in there). It happened to me once and I couldn't figure out why the problem wasn't going away. Read another thread on this forum where this had happened, and sure enough that was my problem.

 

[luigisho]

It's been my experience that when this part starts to fail it's beyond a clean and reuse (unlike maybe a MAF sensor). I guess it is possible, but I would not trust it. I had it leak inside the cam sensor area over some time and I think it gets compromised. Plus you have to fish extentions through the wheel well. I'd just rather not keep going after it for $30 part. The seals are trickier. There are write ups in the how to and archived for searching here since the beginning.

 

[Hvyleaf]

It's been my experience that when this part starts to fail it's beyond a clean and reuse (unlike maybe a MAF sensor). I guess it is possible, but I would not trust it. I had it leak inside the cam sensor area over some time and I think it gets compromised. Plus you have to fish extentions through the wheel well. I'd just rather not keep going after it for $30 part. The seals are trickier. There are write ups in the how to and archived for searching here since the beginning.

Good point, I'd rather do one and be done. I'm hoping it's not leaking from the back two seals, if at all. Thanks again, for everything. The part should be here within a week. Seems like something I'll be able to do on the side of the road. However I'll most likely wait to use my uncle's lift.

 

[luigisho]

If you are doing the rod bearings then yes a lift will help. If you are able, get the oil pan off and let the exposed area drip for hours( I waited until the next day). You might still get a drop or two towards your eyes but way less. This is only if you have access for that much time and get something setup to catch the dripping oil so it doesn't make a huge mess. I think last time I got a bunch of trash bags taped up all around the exposed area working in the driveway. If you have large area drip pan in a garage that's all the better. I was also afraid of getting dirt and whatever blown around and into the rotating area.

 

[rubydist]

The cam sensor code could be due to a wiring harness issue, but most often due to the sensor itself being bad. Its easy to change, so do that first.

As mentioned above, disregard the fuel pump codes, they get set when the engine stalls for any reason.

I have done rod bearings multiple times with just putting the car on jackstands. Drain the oil and let it stand for a day to let stuff drip is a great idea and will keep most of the drips out of your face. I would leave the pan on for that day so you don't have to worry about dirt blowing around into the bottom of the engine. In my experience, getting the Y-pipe off is the hardest part of that job.

 

[Hvyleaf]

The cam sensor code could be due to a wiring harness issue, but most often due to the sensor itself being bad. Its easy to change, so do that first.

As mentioned above, disregard the fuel pump codes, they get set when the engine stalls for any reason.

I have done rod bearings multiple times with just putting the car on jackstands. Drain the oil and let it stand for a day to let stuff drip is a great idea and will keep most of the drips out of your face. I would leave the pan on for that day so you don't have to worry about dirt blowing around into the bottom of the engine. In my experience, getting the Y-pipe off is the hardest part of that job.

If you are doing the rod bearings then yes a lift will help. If you are able, get the oil pan off and let the exposed area drip for hours( I waited until the next day). You might still get a drop or two towards your eyes but way less. This is only if you have access for that much time and get something setup to catch the dripping oil so it doesn't make a huge mess. I think last time I got a bunch of trash bags taped up all around the exposed area working in the driveway. If you have large area drip pan in a garage that's all the better. I was also afraid of getting dirt and whatever blown around and into the rotating area.

Awesome. I did a bit of research. The sensor itself seems easy enough. I'm hoping the seals aren't leaking.. I'll have to get those and do it. Luckily the car is rust free so that may help with the removal of the y pipe.
When that comes off, the high flow one is going on. The issue has only occurred two times , I've driven 500/600 miles .. I'll definitely have to check over the condition of everything. Being as clean as it is.. I'm thinking it's the sensor telling me it's about to say goodnight,lol.
I'm pretty excited to see how this all goes. No better way to learn than diving right in. I want to do this as efficiently as possible, and tackle any " while you're in there" items. I'll have to schedule for the rod bearings, the draining is a really solid idea!
I have a slight miss and some valve cover leaks, I was trying to wait until my ported intake came, however I think it is best to do that asap , even if I need a second set of gaskets.
Thanks again.

 

[luigisho]

The MLS intake gasket is usually reusable (I use a gasket sealer spray from the parts store). The valve covers don't have to come off for that next time--so get those done. If the oil has been sitting in the spark plug tubes you might want to replace plugs and wires. That should take care of the miss. If it's your first time, I would bag and tag all the parts to make reassembly easy. If you are going into the timing area there is a 3 piece plastic cover and it comes off in seperate pieces and probably not in the order you think. I forget how it comes off, but I remember getting tripped up first time through and pulling on it when other items were still securing the middle part. Take the intake off as 1 piece. When putting it back on, loosen the couplers on the intake runners a little bit so it has a little flex to seat flush, and tighten them after you get it seated on the heads. Also use tape or similar to label hoses for reattachment. Little tricks I learned after I didn't do it that way the first time and wish I had.

 

[Hvyleaf]

The MLS intake gasket is usually reusable (I use a gasket sealer spray from the parts store). The valve covers don't have to come off for that next time--so get those done. If the oil has been sitting in the spark plug tubes you might want to replace plugs and wires. That should take care of the miss. If it's your first time, I would bag and tag all the parts to make reassembly easy. If you are going into the timing area there is a 3 piece plastic cover and it comes off in seperate pieces and probably not in the order you think. I forget how it comes off, but I remember getting tripped up first time through and pulling on it when other items were still securing the middle part. Take the intake off as 1 piece. When putting it back on, loosen the couplers on the intake runners a little bit so it has a little flex to seat flush, and tighten them after you get it seated on the heads. Also use tape or similar to label hoses for reattachment. Little tricks I learned after I didn't do it that way the first time and wish I had.

Thank you, was reading a bit as on the SHOPP archive. The cam seal pictures are missing.
I'm was feeling a little nervous. Today at stop light, coming off high way. ( I did ride 5th out without noticing to maybe 30mph low, nothing happened, went right into neutral.. my mind was else where. But thought I should mention it.. sat at red for 30 secs, Oil light flickered with no noise. Then car just shut off, quietly... fired right back up. Light flicked again, checked oil... looks good. Drove home on highway just fine. Gets to 80 no problem.
Had me worried about the bearings... thankfully those will be done soon.
I have vacuum lines and couplers from shosource coming. I'll wait for those and do it at once. I have plugs and wires ready to go as well.
I figured while I had the money I should try and prepare. Lol.

I was feeling a bit overwhelmed, I may have to drive my toyota in the mean time until everything is addressed. I guess this what sho love is all about.

 

[luigisho]

the oil light can be a few things. It will pop when rpms dip too low. I forget the trigger number but it is below normal idle rpms. It can also be low oil level. Or rod bearings. If the car is running funny and rpms dip below threshold it's usually just that.

 

[rubydist]

Given what you just said Hvyleaf, I would not be driving the car until the rod bearings get done.

 

[FastCAD]

Hey. I have a 95mtx. Runs well. ( slight miss it feels, possibly cat clogged, smelled almost like it, no biggie, I have a high flow cat y pipe to install) -Oil in plug wells. I have all the gaskets I need. (Top and bottom, got rod bearings too)Except for cam seals.
I had my car start bucking on high way. Check engine on. Then off, sometimes steady. Shut it off. Start it, and ran fine for few days. Had similar issues on the road . Same thing, shut down . Start up fine.

Today I had it take a bit to start up.

Looks like
214. Cid.
542Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
557Low speed pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

Unsure how to proceed. I want to order the cam sensor , any recommendations on brand? Is there any other reason the fuel pump codes would arise without it being on the way out? I'll order that if I need. Any input is taken with extensive gratitude. Thanks in advance.

Hi;
Where are you located? How many miles on the '95?
A '95 should be a rod shifter??? With the 'Y' pipe use a flex pipe (preferably stainless) after the coupling and get a new larger resonator (Magnaflow) makes for a good sound.
If you removed the cam sensor and there is a mess inside then it is the seal and probably caused the stalling.
The "seal" is the pain to replace. If you have the manifold off then you can remove the sensor housing from the block and knock out the seal from the back. The seal comes as a set of 3 (RockAuto) same seal as the 2 front cam seals.
Get the FelPro gasket set for the valve covers (the set comes with new plug well seals) which probably caused the miss. Replace the manifold gaskets. I could only get them in a larger set of gaskets but the price wasn't that bad (so I have extra gaskets). Some have had good results re-using their manifold gaskets with a sealer if you go that route.
Replace the upper valve cover "grommets" (ShoSource) and torque them down properly to get the proper seal.
Best to you and your new ride.
Sounds like a beauty.

 

[Hvyleaf]

Hi;
Where are you located? How many miles on the '95?
A '95 should be a rod shifter??? With the 'Y' pipe use a flex pipe (preferably stainless) after the coupling and get a new larger resonator (Magnaflow) makes for a good sound.
If you removed the cam sensor and there is a mess inside then it is the seal and probably caused the stalling.
The "seal" is the pain to replace. If you have the manifold off then you can remove the sensor housing from the block and knock out the seal from the back. The seal comes as a set of 3 (RockAuto) same seal as the 2 front cam seals.
Get the FelPro gasket set for the valve covers (the set comes with new plug well seals) which probably caused the miss. Replace the manifold gaskets. I could only get them in a larger set of gaskets but the price wasn't that bad (so I have extra gaskets). Some have had good results re-using their manifold gaskets with a sealer if you go that route.
Replace the upper valve cover "grommets" (ShoSource) and torque them down properly to get the proper seal.
Best to you and your new ride.
Sounds like a beauty.

Thank you! The thing is immaculate , rust wise. I'll likely do the cam sensor when I'm doing valve covers, so that seems like a solid idea.
I'm thinking the oil light was an rpm issue. I noticed it happen when it dipped below 1k . No sounds or anything. I have the intake gasket set and sho source top 60k. I need to double check if I have the cam seals. Hopefully this week my shosource vacuum lines arrive and I'll proceed. I'm excited to get everything going.
I pray the back two seals aren't awful.
I definitely need to look into a resonator/muffler combo.
As for the flex pipes? Is that something I need to get from shosource, or can I source one through a local parts shop?
The two times it stalled, it was my error, save for the moment I came off the highway and it just shut off.. that may have been me not paying attention, as I rode 5th out, it didnt bog, shake or anything, maybe rpm dipped too low?
Thanks again. She's my baby lol.

 

[luigisho]

View attachment 14044


Thank you! The thing is immaculate , rust wise.

That's 1/2 the battle. rust free, no cracked dash, or wonky wiring--- everything else is fixable

 

[Hvyleaf]

That's 1/2 the battle. rust free, no cracked dash, or wonky wiring--- everything else is fixable

100% I'd eat off the bottom. The aluminum subframe bushings were a huge plus. The seller didnt even know it had them.. he is a pastor down south and I mentioned it to him while he sent me a video. He had no idea
While I had no idea how much better these handle with them. This is my second MTX. While this one runs roughish. I bought my first one for 400$. No fog lights. Typical rust. But not rot and took me 20k before I smashed it... also my first daily MTX car. I have so much faith in these lol. Like any relationship. You need to listen and act accordingly. She's telling me she wants some care ( I believe in talking to and telling it it's gonna be ok) I've been calling her a brat. I don't say IT. Lol. I'm a few drinks deep now
I hope I make sense..lol. the stereo is trash
. 2 10" kenwood subs. But the speakers are questionable and the head unit is unacceptable. I have an audio guy who will get it all right though at the right price.. which I wish I would do it myself. But with all the labor going into mechanical parts. I'm willing to sp2nd lunch and up to 600$ for good audio.. Including head unit

Damn light flickered again... Someone's sho is staying parked. Lol

 

[Hvyleaf]

I got my delphi cam sensor in, cam seal should arrive today.
I might as well replace the o2 sensors while im in there,huh? Mike at shosource is gonna be shaking his head at my now 4/5th order. Haha.
Anything else I should get in meantime?

I have:
ported intake
Bbb
Gaskets for top and botton
Rod bearings
Ypipe
Cam seal and sensor
Russels steel break lines
Sho source vacuum lines and couplers.
TB gasket.
I don't want to upgrade for big power. Just looking for the few gains from the ported stuff and y pipe.

Also. I might as well do the rest of the exhaust, any personal recommendations are welcome.
I was told a flex pipe (is this sho specific?) Resonator and muffler, of course

 

[zoomlater]

You can still get mufflers and a resonator, but a full aftermarket SHO exhaust is no longer available. There was a new in the box Borla set up on ebay last year. You might be able to find someone selling their old aftermarket exhaust (Borla, Dynomax, Shosource). I was looking at one of the public Facebook ads and saw someone selling their car that had a Shosource exhaust on it. The ad was back in March.

 

[luigisho]

Get 1 cam seal but you may need more.