Engine bucking???

[sho_can]

Okay, I'm sort of new here, i've been checking out the forum since i got my SHO in Sept. its a 92 with 90,000 mi on it, i changed the water pump, CPS and Timing Belt about a month ago, any how, after that every thing ran fine, about two week's later i rev it up pretty high, and then shut it down. get back in my car and the CE light comes on and the engine run's like hudd! Buck's and feels like only half the piston's are fireing, does any one have any clue what this could be? could i have got a bad CPS from the auto store? any help would be very appreciated, i travle 40 mile to work every day and i have to be there!

Thanks guy's, karl

 

[jthomas68]

The CPS won`t throw a code,so your safe there.Check the codes and see what you come up with,my guess is MAF.

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Jeremy Thomas
Modified 91+
Pic Of The Week:

 

[sho_can]

Okay, I've been planing on pulling the code's, but it's snowing right now, and so as soon and i can get out there to do it I will. This is the thing though, after I let it sit I tryed to start it up and it started just fine and now it run's normal, I can't have it break down on me so I need to find out what it could be. does the MAF tweek out the Tach? because the tach fliped out on me when this happened. What about a DIS malfunction?

 

[sdpatt]

If the tach is dropping to zero and the engine is acting as if you turned off the ignition key, the failing component is likely the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). This sensor will sometimes set a code so that is still a valid thing to do. The CPS usually fails intermittently at first, with outages from a split second to several hours.

Rather than take anyone else's guess, just check the codes. That should be a solid indication of what is failing.


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Scott

1991, 252K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[batchman]

If the bucking is severe, like drive-home-only, I'd guess a coil pack (if 92 is so equipped).

- Jeff

 

[pittsburghsho]

Mine was bucking pretty good and a cam sensor fixed it. It's been great for about 14 months(knock on everything in sight). late

 

[sho_can]

Does a cam shaft sensor send a code to the EEC Memory? What about the Coilpack does it send a code? Well I'm trying to get some time to check my code's but when i have time to do it, it Snow's, and when it does'nt snow i don't have time to do it! How hard is it to Check the Code's any how? I boght a ford EEC tester and have'nt had time to read the 300 page booklet yet! I'll get on it today.

ps any one know how to take out a left head light? I need to fix the condensation problem.

Thanks, Karl

 

[Tommy the Greek]

Originally posted by sdpatt:
If the tach is dropping to zero and the engine is acting as if you turned off the ignition key, the failing component is likely the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). This sensor will sometimes set a code so that is still a valid thing to do. The CPS usually fails intermittently at first, with outages from a split second to several hours.

Rather than take anyone else's guess, just check the codes. That should be a solid indication of what is failing.

Scott, is it necessary to change the CPS when doing a t-belt and w-pump?


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'95 SHO ATX, 55W foglights, coneless, fishtank mod, white/mocha cloth interior, 45K, Mobil 1 10W-30, build date 12/13/94.
Below is a pic of her @ 28K miles (Nov. 6, 2000)off interstate 87, overlooking Lake George, NY.

www.roushind.com
AIM: kalamos73

 

[sdpatt]

Originally posted by Tommy the Greek:
Scott, is it necessary to change the CPS when doing a t-belt and w-pump?

Nope. You really only need to replace the CPS, water pump, and front main seal when they fail. The CPS may last 180,000 miles like it did in my 1991 or it may fail at 50,000 miles. They are not part of the scheduled 60/100K maintenance services. They are usually replaced during the timing belt change because most of the labor has already been done to get the timing belt off.

Scott

 

[Mike Stitzer]

My brother's 89 did this and after the dealer dicked him around for a week, they checked the fuel pressure and found it was only 10psi. Dropped in a new fuel pump and problem solved. I don't know if this will cure your 92, but it's easy to check.

Mike

 

[jedhead]

I had a simular problem whereas when I try to accelerate at more than 2/3 throttle the engine would bog then buck badly. It drove me nuts until I found a hairline crack in the pipe between the MAF and throttle body. You might have a vacumn leak too.

Bob

 

[sho_can]

Okay, i finally got time to check the code's, and this is what i got: 114, 556, and 214! So.... what does this mean? Is there a code for a crank sensor, or Cam sensor? What is Cylinder Identification circuit failure? any Help would be good.

Thanks,

 

[Rob94]

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes3.html
Start off by looking here...

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Rob
White 94MTX
K&N Filter otherwise stock