Electrical Issues...

[auto.guru]

So i have a problem.
I am going to be going through my 3rd starter.
There is OBVIOUSLY a reason why the starter is drawing much more power than it should be - causing the internals to fry over time.
We have measured the voltage drop from a battery terminal to the wire.
Its using all the voltage available... of course... this is not a good thing.
When we have everything connected like normal - and we measure the voltage across the battery we get 0 volts. But when we disconnect the starter we read the standard 12v across the battery.

We traced the problem to the fuse block under the hood.
With measured the wire across the fuse block and it uses all 12v. After taking every fuse out of that fuse block... we still have a voltage usage of 3v. This doesnt make sense. If you take every fuse out of a fuse block how can it still be using voltage (unless it has a short to ground)

When the headlamp, EEC, and FUSE BLOCK mega-fuses are put in, the voltage usage spikes right back up to 12v FOR EACH OF THEM. If someone could disconnect that wire from the engine bay fuse block and measure the voltage usage across it with KOEO, that would be great.

Nothing is making sense...
If we are using all the voltage available... and shorting to ground, we should be blowing fuses of at least some size, in the car or under the hood.
--- We are going to take out all the interior lights (because they do not work) and see if that 3v changes at all. This could indicated a Short To Ground in the interior light circuit. But that would still not indicated the 12v usage for the headlamps, EEC, or Fuse block circuit.


Answers ASAP would be very helpful seeing as how im stuck about 2 hours away from home - And the probability that i will have to pop the clutch to get home since the starter cant get the required voltage (not to mention the starter doesnt have enough juice to start the car)

 

[Whydah91]

This isn't going to be much help, but you've got a dead short , or 'draw, somewhere, maybe the starter itself. If it's a Chinese or Mexican reman, I've installed 4 before I got a good one. Had this problem on an '89 Mustang GT with 85k on it, and after a year sold the damned car to cure it. I'd say that you're gonna have to try to get it home and track it through the engine wireing harness with a breakout box.

 

[auto.guru]

For some reason we hooked it all back up... and everything works great.
Every fuse was pulled and put back in multiple times... its possible it was a rubbing wire or something and its temp fixed... or it could have been the starter connections...

we really dont know. we are baffled now... but glad it runs and starts up just great.
ALTHOUGH - i do have my dash lights blowing a fuse on me, my climate control flickers when i use the right blinker, none of the interior lights work, and i do have an air bag electrical short.

more to fix. more to hate, and more to love about SHOs

 

[Shovert]

I read this and didn't post earlier. If I am reading correct. 12v at battery posts and then 0 voltage with starter hooked up. Eithere battery is no good [bad cell] or heck of short that should draw extreme arc when cables are put on. A bad cell battery can work and not work. Without starter engage should be no change. Even with starter turning motor it won't drop that low.
Now on starters. Rebuilt parts [if using them] can be shot in the dark. I went thru 4 "rebuilt" lifetime replacement alternators on my Mustang. Now running a used one.
I also had other bad things happen with that auto parts supplier. Like radiator hoses that lasted 2 years, 3 water pumps in 2 years, 2 starters in a Jeep. You get the point. Maurice

 

[auto.guru]

battery is brand new... been good all its life...
and im using a used starter at the moment.. but ive still had this problem...

the key word was short. i think there is something wrong somewhere... but not sure

 

[auto.guru]

if anyone has any electrical diagrams for the blinkers, interior lights, and so forth problems i have mentioned it would be great