Does not start or run

[95ss]

Hello everyone, I have a 94 with a ATX that will not run. It turns over and once it tried to start...just a few rpms.
I video'd the codes after jumping the test plug so I could count the numbers. I think I have 542 repeated two times and then a 1 and then 214,542,214,542.....light goes out and does not flash again.
Long story is my son drove it to school and parked it. came back and would not start. I added gas cause it was at a 1/4 tank thinking the fuel gauge may be off. It now has half a tank.
what is a fuel pump secondary circuit failure?

 

[95ss]

I was searching and see where someone disconnected the cam sensor module and the car ran? I replaced mine ....wonder if it went bad? I see where lots of information here says the 542 is a result of the engine stall and possibly a false code. I will run over to the school and pull the cam sensor plug and see if it will start. be back in a hour.
Thanks.

 

[zoomlater]

Code 214 is probably bad cam sensor or a bad connection to the sensor. If you disconnect it, it should start by the third try. There could be other things going on as I found out when I was still getting a 214 code with a brand new sensor (it could also be bad out of the box). If the sensor has been replaced before, make sure there is only one orange rubber seal in the connector. It sometimes get left in the connector when you replace it. Hence, I was driving it around with two rubber seals that prevent it from making a good connection
Code 542 can be ignored as you found out

 

[95ss]

Thanks for the reply, It did not start with the connector off...tried alot more than 3 times . bummer! I am heading for the uhaul to get car dolly.

 

[sperold]

Check the schrader valve on the fuel rail, should be lots of gas and about 40 psig pressure.
Sounds like it stalled out due to fuel (perhaps).

 

[95ss]

What is the best way to test the fuel pressure, I see a shrader valve type assembly on the fuel rail, can i get a loaner tool at the auto parts to test it?

 

[zoomlater]

If they loan out fuel pressure gages that would be the easiest to measure the actual pressure. You can do a quick test by depressing the Schrader valve to see how much fuel shoots out.

So its cranking strong, no battery issues? Make sure your grounds are clean and making good contact with the engine, negative battery terminal, etc.

 

[95ss]

Thanks for the reply, It is cranking strong and I worked over all the connections when I replaced the starter. I made sure they had bare metal and no corrosion and cleaned everything up very well. engine to firewall and negative cable from battery were also done. My starter spins the engine over really good....it is better than anything else I own. I also sealed all of the connections to prevent any problems. I checked for spark and it is sparking....so at least the crank position sensor is working!

 

[95ss]

I found 0 psi at the test port! How can i see if the fuel pump is getting voltage? ( to confirm no pressure i took the gauge off and checked to see if fuel would flow and it did not.) sucks to be me, I am on crutches and now I need to pull the stupid tank or cut a hole in the trunk. FML

 

[sperold]

Have a good look at your "inertia switch" on the drivers side in the trunk. It shuts off the fuel pump when it takes a hit. See if you have voltage on both sides of that thing before you do anything with the tank.
It has a reset button.

 

[95ss]

ok...will do, thanks.

 

[zoomlater]

Can you hear the pump whine when you turn the key

 

[rubydist]

you don't cut a hole in the trunk, it is under the rear seat. There is a thread on here that details exactly where to cut. It is much easier than r/r the tank, imho.

 

[95ss]

ok guys, thanks for the help! I removed the switch and tested it for continuity and it is good. I measured the voltage on the input wire to the switch and it was 9.8vdc. I was suprised at that, I expected around 12 vdc? I will look up the thread for the hole ....my 15 yr old is getting a mechanic lesson on this! Thanks again. btw autozone gave me the option of just buying the pump......71 bucks or buying the whole assembly 131 bucks. which way would you guys go?
Rick

 

[SHOdded]

Try and get a Walbro pump. From what I hear, Airtex is not reliable, even if you have to use their sender.

 

[itwonder]

Walbro and Bosch are both good. The Walbro kit includes a new strainer, which has to be sourced separately for the Bosch. The Bosch is a more modern turbine type pump, and with it you can eliminate the little pulse dampner thingy that Ford installed with the Walbro. Just get the stock pump replacement kit, and it will fit your existing bracket just fine. Upgrade pumps don't fit the bracket properly, and there is no benefit to them on a stock car.

With these cars now 20+ years old, I think it is silly to try to shortcut the process by cutting an access hole in the body underneath the rear seat. Presuming you have a good set of jackstands, after you siphon as much gas as possible out, it is about as quick to drop the tank as it is to cut that hole. With the tank out, you can give it a good cleaning with Purple Power, and get whatever crud has collected in there over 20 years out. Put in the new pump, and then you are all set with a nice clean tank and new pump that will go another 20 years. You can also check all of the various rubber hoses to make sure none are deteriorated.

 

[95ss]

Hello everyone, first let me say thank you to everyone for the help! I chose to remove the tank and it was a good thing, the rubber hose's show signs of rot and need to be replaced. I have the tank on my work bench and wonder how I am supposed to remove the assembley? it looks like the tabs might not need to be lifted up if I can rotate the top in the correct direction. Is there a rubber o ring under this area? seems that bending the tabs up would prove to be a pain to bend back down. anyone got some advice here? Thanks...Rick , Great Falls MT

 

[luigisho]

The assembly is designed to rotate out for removal. I would use a hammer and piece of 2x4 or non sparking metal chisel to hit it with to loosen it up. There is a gasket between the assembly and the tank. I forget what the material is.

 

[rubydist]

righty tighty, lefty loosy on that retainer.

 

[95ss]

Hi Rubydist, thanks for the reminder ! if you knew me you would know how funny that is, my 14 yr old son has no problem with that concept and can tear stuff apart quick like a bunny! HOWEVER my 16 yr old cannot ever get it right and it drives him crazy. He does not like to be outdone by his little brother and a few fights have been due to those very words.
I wanted to just replace the pump but it does not look like the entire assembly is easily disassembled, any advice on that ? the base of the pump has a steel base at it looks like i might be able to pry it open and slip it off the tube? I have a Walbro pump with F3DU-9350-CA, AOF 100, 09094-2B ...........do these numbers represent the stock pump or is this a replacement?
Thanks
Rick