DIY AC Recharge

[SinisterSHO]

So, the day I left for the convention my AC stopped blowing cold air. The other day I bought a DIY recharge kit. Following the directions, I hooked up the connecting hose with the pressure gauge attached. With the car running, it was reading a very high PSI already and told me not to add any of the refridgerant.

What could cause this? Would I just be better off having it checked out somewhere?

 

[SASHO91]

If you don't have the proper tools to check the A/C system I would just take it to someone.

As far as the reading goes (which was on the low side, correct?) it could be a number of things. First would be an overcharged system.

I take it that the system was operating normally before hand? How cold?

 

[bryantaylor]

was the a/c on full blast? that makes a big differnce. i just charged mine and with the a/c off it was reading way high too, but when you turn on the a/c the pressure dropped down.

 

[SASHO91]

Another thing, has the system been converted to R-134? Or is it still on R-12?
If it was converted, were all the nessecary steps taken to convert the system?

 

[naval-avi8or]

So, the day I left for the convention my AC stopped blowing cold air. The other day I bought a DIY recharge kit. Following the directions, I hooked up the connecting hose with the pressure gauge attached. With the car running, it was reading a very high PSI already and told me not to add any of the refridgerant.

What could cause this? Would I just be better off having it checked out somewhere?

The only way to get a proper pressure reading is MAX AC and the compressor actually engaged. My guess is that the airgap is out of spec and you clutch disengages/will not reengage once it get hot in the engine bay. If you compressor is not engaging then you can unplug the cycling switch (on the acc/dryer) and short it with shorting wire to force the compressor to engage. This will tell you if it is low on freon or the cycling switch is bad. For the airgap you can tap (with a dow rod or anything long enough to reach) the ac clutch plate with the car running and MAX AC on and it will engage indicating that you need to remove a shim.

 

[SinisterSHO]

The AC was recharged a couple of years ago and had blown cold air. I hadn't been using it much this year, but it seemed to be working fine until about 3 weeks ago now. I had it converted to R-134 a few months after I owned the car and it was done at a very well known shop.

When I tested it, I did have the Max AC on and it was blowing full blast. I did have the gauge on the low pressure side because it will only fit the one fitting. Everything seems to be working fine with the exception of the air not being cold.

 

[Shoman594]

Steve, dissconnect the plug on top of the acumulator/dryer? its a 2 wire plug right by the compressor. With the ac on max put a paper clip in to jumper the plug. See if the clutch kicks on then check the pressure.

 

[naval-avi8or]

When I tested it, I did have the Max AC on and it was blowing full blast. I did have the gauge on the low pressure side because it will only fit the one fitting. Everything seems to be working fine with the exception of the air not being cold.

This doesn't mean the AC compressor was engaged. The Compressor must be engaged and remain engaged. 99.5% of ac works initally and then blowes warm 10-20 min or so later is that the clutch can't engage do to an out of spec airgap that gets worse by expansion after the engine bay heats up.

 

[SinisterSHO]

Steve, dissconnect the plug on top of the acumulator/dryer? its a 2 wire plug right by the compressor. With the ac on max put a paper clip in to jumper the plug. See if the clutch kicks on then check the pressure.

If the clutch does not engage with this, what would be the problem? Bad cycling switch? Something easy, I hope?

 

[MD Ever]

If the compressor doesn't engage when you jumper the switch then check for power at the compressor. If present then it is probably an air gap issue. Oh and check the fuse for the a/c. Mine was blown and it did the same thing but I had a coil problem.

 

[MADDOG11]

As far as the high pressure goes, I would bet you have a restriction at the fixed orifice tube. Mine was restriced and caused the same problem. Replace it and recheck the pressures!

 

[SinisterSHO]

The accumulator/dryer is right in front of the alternator, correct? You can see the plug from the top of the car?

I unplugged this and jumped it and the pressure was still reading high. Did I unplug the right there, where should I look next?

 

[SASHO91]

Is the A/C compressor(clutch) turning on Steve?????

 

[SinisterSHO]

I'm an idiot when it comes to a/c stuff. It didn't look like it was doing anything, no.

 

[SASHO91]

Ok, turn the car on without the a/c on. Go look at the compressor.
Then keep the car running, and go turn the a/c on. then go back on look at the compressor...

was there any difference?

 

[Bishoptroy]

I have a similar problem. I jumped that switch and my compressor kicked on but the air was still hot, I checked the pressure while it was running MAX AC and it was in the normal range. So i'm planning to buy a new Liquid line Fixed Orifice Tube from autozone for like 27.99 i think, but i'm guessing I have to get someone to vacuum out my system or how can I install this new part correctly? I also don't know much about AC like some of the other posters ;-/

Trying to avoid a shop that will screw me !

 

[SinisterSHO]

I guess my clutch is on the way out. It came on after I started the car for the fifth time.

 

[St Louis SHO]

yay me... good diagnostics over AIM