dealer cant do ptu change

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6500rpm

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If you have a set of jack stands, the PP cars are really simple. I semi covered what I did in this thread a few weeks ago about half way down the page.
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/ptu-drain-bolt-size.138279/

With the car lifted and the shield removed, you just remove the drain plug with 1/4" hex socket or allen key. Drain what you can-I ended up taking it down off the stands on the right side to slope it and get a little more out and drained it into a large measuring cup so I knew how much came out. With the car back up an stands on both sides, put the drain plug back in and takes your hand and run it on top of the PTU and you're going to be able to feel the vent hose (it slides over a barbed vent hose attachment that was referred to as a stinger). Pull the vent hose off the stinger and install the clear tube shown in the other thread I referenced and feed the hose to the top of the engine. Measure out the same amount of fluid that you removed and put it back in the gear oil bottle and slowly squeeze it through the tube back into the PTU through the clear hose. Take your time-squeeze a little in, remove the bottle and let it burp and squeeze a little more until it's all in. I repeated 4 or 5 times. When you're done, climb back under the car and if you see a bit of fluid still in the clear hose you can milk it in by squeezing the tube so you don't make a mess when you pull the tube off. Pull off the clear tube and reinstall the PTU vent hose and your done. It really is simple on the PP cars, Once you're under the car with the shield off it becomes pretty clear and a drop light/flashlight helps to see the vent hose. With all your tools out and ready to go it should take an hour or less. FWIW, the spec for PTU fluid is 18 oz- my car didn't have any leaks and I think I was able to drain 12oz out and if memory serves me correct I put 14oz back in. If you can't find a shop to do it and you have decent mechanical skills it's pretty easy-just a little more involved than a oil change.

***The reason the dealer/shop may not want to do it is that "by the manual", the downpipe needs to be removed to access the PTU temp sensor which is also the fill hole. By the book, you remove the temp sensor and fill the PTU until fluid just starts to weep out. Since I didn't have any leaks I used the method I posted that I had read about on the forums and put back in the amount that I had removed. Even using the factory method, you're only going to be able to drain out as much as the drain plug is going to allow which was 12oz in my case.
 
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Chris Horner

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When I bought mine I had to explain to the salesman and most of the people in the sales department what the "Performance Package" was. Same thing at CARMAX but that is understandable no excuse for a Ford dealership. As I said we are a dying breed the America car guy/girl is a thing of the past.
C/

I actually bought my SHO through Carmax. On the test drive me and sales guy were just chatting. On an entrance ramp I dropped the hammer down to get on the highway. Instant silence in the car. Then the sales guy goes “ok wth is this thing??” Lol

Carmax I kinda get it. But a Ford dealer? Nope. No excuse there.
 

flstflhr

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2013 pp 45000 miles brought to dealer for45k check told them i wanted ptu changed their transmission guy said it doesnt get changed i say bs anyone else run into this all fluids have been changed except ptu
 

flstflhr

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ok second ford dealer same answer fluid is good to 150k yeah right lincoln dealer is next glad i have 3years 30k left on extended warranty might be using it
 

SHOman48

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I got my 2011 4 months ago from the get go I knew the ptu had not been touched cause it had a nasty sounding whine. I got a 3 year 24k warranty when I got the car 2 weeks later I took it to my local dealer said I think my ptu is bad. They scheduled me in 2 days later and it they confirmed my diagnosis. After all work done they told me they recommend 30-50k for ptu fluid change leaning more to the 30k. After I got it back silent but deadly.
 

SHOdded

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lets see if they will actually service the ptu when it comes time. that's when the other shoe tends to drop.
 

6500rpm

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Fwiw, I changed my fluid at a bit under 60k miles and it was still a normal viscosity with minimal steel powder stuck to the drain plug magnet. I'm a believer in the plus factor of the PP and the PTU cooler may be a big plus after seeing some of the posts on what could happen. If I had to do it over again and had an idea of how simple the fluid change is on a PP equipped vehicle I think I'd have done it about every 25-30k miles more or less just because. It's also always good to get a look at your fluids just to see what's going on inside.
 

SM105K

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Fwiw, I changed my fluid at a bit under 60k miles and it was still a normal viscosity with minimal steel powder stuck to the drain plug magnet. I'm a believer in the plus factor of the PP and the PTU cooler may be a big plus after seeing some of the posts on what could happen. If I had to do it over again and had an idea of how simple the fluid change is on a PP equipped vehicle I think I'd have done it about every 25-30k miles more or less just because. It's also always good to get a look at your fluids just to see what's going on inside.

I did the same at 55-60K and my PTU fluid was still good. I have all the records from my car and I know the fluid was not changed. It really isn't that hard. You don't have to use a lift, but it helps.
 
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