Got a question. I have a 94 SHO, five speed. 145000, miles. Sometimes at a red light or stop sign it will just die. Never has shut down at highway speed. I left it idling in the driveway this weekend until it died. Turn the engine over and the tach will read 350 to 400 RPM but will not start. Checked fuel pressure at the rail while cranking. 35PSI. Took the pump to ground, 45PSI. Let it sit for 30 minutes, still got 25 PSI on the Rail. Replaced camshaft sensor a week ago. DIS replaced a few weeks before. Idle Ail replaced. No leaks from the water pump. When it dies I get code 211 Crank Sensor. Clear code and run KOEO no codes, KOER no codes, compression check KOER and gauge all good. From what I understand, when you lose the crank sensor, the tach dies. Seems heat related. Happens when the car has been driven and sits for 30 of 40 minutes. Operating temp. normal, cooling fan running. Seems to be getting progressively worse. Let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes and starts back up. Am I missing something? When you lose the Crank Sensor do you lose the Tach?
Dead tach or not with bad crank sensor
- Thread starter REX1
- Start date
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shobikes
New Member
That is right - bad CPS=no tach. Code 211 means replace the CPS even though it's a huge PITA. How long since the last 60k? If it's overdue you might as well do timing belt, crank seal, et al.
120000 miles. Full front and top done by Ford Performance Specialists of Georgia, Inc. Additional information. I have been replacing sensors and modules over the last year. I have also replaced TPS, Coil Pack, spark plugs, wires and MAF.
120000 miles. Full front and top done by Ford Performance Specialists of Georgia, Inc. Additional information. I have been replacing sensors and modules over the last year. I have also replaced TPS, Coil Pack, spark plugs, wires and MAF.
I had to replace my CPS about a year ago for a no start condition but the tach still worked when cranking the engine. I did not get any codes though. I would lean towards you're CPS being the problem, especially if you're getting a 211 code.
Setupmachine
New Member
hello if you find out what your problem is would you drop me a line. Having same problem here. Thanks setup
autobahnsho
SHO Victim
This summer mine stalled out for about a half second while in cruise control (tach to zero) then it kicked right back in and I didn't have any problems for 2 weeks.
Then it wasn't starting, tach would move to around 400, fuel pressure was good. Codes indicated CPS, so I replaced it and haven't had the problems since.
It's a job you can do yourself, if you have some (or can borrow some) tools, mostly wrenches, sockets, extensions, and a puller for the crankshaft dampener. The part itself is only $35, but expect a few hours of "quality time" with your SHO...
Then it wasn't starting, tach would move to around 400, fuel pressure was good. Codes indicated CPS, so I replaced it and haven't had the problems since.
It's a job you can do yourself, if you have some (or can borrow some) tools, mostly wrenches, sockets, extensions, and a puller for the crankshaft dampener. The part itself is only $35, but expect a few hours of "quality time" with your SHO...
I broke down this weekend, pulled the engine down and did a full front end on it. Belt, Front Seal and CPS. No problems to date. I found a couple of interesting things.
The CPS I took out looked factory original. The gap for the CPS was only set at .020. With the magnet to the inside of the vein ring, the gap set too close would put the pick up farther away from the veins. With normal heat expansion of the engine, the gap could open up past the operating range of the pick up. Add to that a little wear on the rods, mains and thrust washers and things could get interesting. My problem seemed to be when the engine was shut down for 30 to 40 minutes and restarted. Pull up to the first red light or stop sign and it would just die and would not restart for 20 to 30 minutes. When you shut the engine down, the temperatures of the oil and coolant are going to spike as there is no air moving over the engine and no fluids flowing. Combine that with a weak pick up magnet and you could get all kinds of crazy things going on. Just a theory at this point.
Another thing to consider is several attempts at restarting the engine with no spark can pump excessive fuel in the cylinders. After several restarts attempted in a short period of time, the sensors are screwed. My best result was to wait 10 or 15 minutes, push the gas pedal to the floor and give it a shot. I read some where that this will shut off the flow of fuel to the injectors and allow the excess fuel to be burned out of the cylinders. Can’t say if that is true or not but it seemed to work for me.
The second thing I found was a corroded and sloppy connection for the ground wire at the plug in the main harness for the CPS. I am going to try an experiment and unplug the ground while the engine is running and see if it throws a 211 code. More later.
On another note, I have read about trouble finding parts for the SHO. I have been getting my parts from Advanced Auto Parts locally. If they don’t have it they can usually get it over night.
Replaced to date:
Crank Sensor
Cam Sensor
Idle Air
MAF
DIS
Coil Pack
Plugs (Autolite)
Plug Wires
Belts
Alternator
Not all of these parts were bad, just a peace of mind thing.
The CPS I took out looked factory original. The gap for the CPS was only set at .020. With the magnet to the inside of the vein ring, the gap set too close would put the pick up farther away from the veins. With normal heat expansion of the engine, the gap could open up past the operating range of the pick up. Add to that a little wear on the rods, mains and thrust washers and things could get interesting. My problem seemed to be when the engine was shut down for 30 to 40 minutes and restarted. Pull up to the first red light or stop sign and it would just die and would not restart for 20 to 30 minutes. When you shut the engine down, the temperatures of the oil and coolant are going to spike as there is no air moving over the engine and no fluids flowing. Combine that with a weak pick up magnet and you could get all kinds of crazy things going on. Just a theory at this point.
Another thing to consider is several attempts at restarting the engine with no spark can pump excessive fuel in the cylinders. After several restarts attempted in a short period of time, the sensors are screwed. My best result was to wait 10 or 15 minutes, push the gas pedal to the floor and give it a shot. I read some where that this will shut off the flow of fuel to the injectors and allow the excess fuel to be burned out of the cylinders. Can’t say if that is true or not but it seemed to work for me.
The second thing I found was a corroded and sloppy connection for the ground wire at the plug in the main harness for the CPS. I am going to try an experiment and unplug the ground while the engine is running and see if it throws a 211 code. More later.
On another note, I have read about trouble finding parts for the SHO. I have been getting my parts from Advanced Auto Parts locally. If they don’t have it they can usually get it over night.
Replaced to date:
Crank Sensor
Cam Sensor
Idle Air
MAF
DIS
Coil Pack
Plugs (Autolite)
Plug Wires
Belts
Alternator
Not all of these parts were bad, just a peace of mind thing.
autobahnsho
SHO Victim
So is it running now? I hope so.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
REX1,
The CPS gap is not overly critical. It is set to .030 as a nice balance to be sure that there is no mechanical contact between the vane and the sensor that would damage either. Don't over-analyze the failure.
The CPS is a Hall Effect Device. One side of the sensor contains a permanent magnet, the other contains the Hall pickup sensor. When in the presence of the magnetic flux from the magnet, the sensor conducts electricity. When the vane on the timing gear moves into the sensor element, it interupts the magnetic flux lines and turns the current flow off. This is what creates the switching signal that the computer uses to monitor crank rotation. Like any electronic device, it is suseptible to thermal failure. Given its hostile operating environment, failures do occur.
Flooring the pedal during cranking does signal the computer to turn off the injectors. This information is in the owner's manual under the instructions on how to clear a flooded engine.
The corroded ground wire was very likely the reason for your intermittent failure. Without a proper ground reference signal, the output of the sensor woul be inconsistent or would be of invalid values.
Steve
The CPS gap is not overly critical. It is set to .030 as a nice balance to be sure that there is no mechanical contact between the vane and the sensor that would damage either. Don't over-analyze the failure.
The CPS is a Hall Effect Device. One side of the sensor contains a permanent magnet, the other contains the Hall pickup sensor. When in the presence of the magnetic flux from the magnet, the sensor conducts electricity. When the vane on the timing gear moves into the sensor element, it interupts the magnetic flux lines and turns the current flow off. This is what creates the switching signal that the computer uses to monitor crank rotation. Like any electronic device, it is suseptible to thermal failure. Given its hostile operating environment, failures do occur.
Flooring the pedal during cranking does signal the computer to turn off the injectors. This information is in the owner's manual under the instructions on how to clear a flooded engine.
The corroded ground wire was very likely the reason for your intermittent failure. Without a proper ground reference signal, the output of the sensor woul be inconsistent or would be of invalid values.
Steve
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