Crikey, what next?? **RESOLVED**
- Thread starter Sarge1400
- Start date
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zblackbeast
SHOtarded
111 is 'no problems'..
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zblackbeast
SHOtarded
Im going with DIS. Its probably 111 cause the car hasn't ran long enough to throw a code!
when you pull the codes, you will get the "current" codes first - repeated twice. then you will get the "stored" codes next - repeated twice. there is a single pulse separating the current from the stored codes.
did you get the 111 code 4 times? or did you stop after the first repeat of the 111 ? I only ask because its the stored codes that are important here.
did you get the 111 code 4 times? or did you stop after the first repeat of the 111 ? I only ask because its the stored codes that are important here.
Oh fudge, I didn't know about the stored codes; I stopped after the first repeat. I'll try to get the codes again. Thanks!
Still having trouble getting codes that make sense. Here's what I just got:
166
36
166
36
111
111
Then into a cycle of the fuel pump cycling on and off, and the CEL right along with it.
I know the codes don't make any sense. 166 doesn't seem to be a valid code anywhere I looked. 36 definitely isn't, due to being only two digits. Only 111 makes sense (no problems), and I'm guessing the 111s are the stored codes, since they came last?
Should I just get a code reader?
166
36
166
36
111
111
Then into a cycle of the fuel pump cycling on and off, and the CEL right along with it.
I know the codes don't make any sense. 166 doesn't seem to be a valid code anywhere I looked. 36 definitely isn't, due to being only two digits. Only 111 makes sense (no problems), and I'm guessing the 111s are the stored codes, since they came last?
Should I just get a code reader?
zblackbeast
SHOtarded
How about.. Make a video of it and post it here since most of us can figure it out that way.. lol.. Im assuming you have a gen 2?
Yeah it's a Gen 2.
I actually considered making a video so you guys could see what was going on.
zblackbeast
SHOtarded
I think he just has a ****** ground all together
Ok, FINALLY got some good codes. The cycle goes like this: 116 - 636 - 116 - 636 - pause - 111 - 111.
116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
636 (O,R) Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
111 System checks OK
No surprise on the first two, since it won't start/run to warm up.
So I'm still left with the problem of only having spark on two cylinders. Which parts should I try replacing first?
Link to youtube video showing codes flashing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqrUnCrwnbQ&feature=youtu.be
116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
636 (O,R) Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
111 System checks OK
No surprise on the first two, since it won't start/run to warm up.
So I'm still left with the problem of only having spark on two cylinders. Which parts should I try replacing first?
Link to youtube video showing codes flashing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqrUnCrwnbQ&feature=youtu.be
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the ect and tot sensor should never be out of range, cold engine or not.
the tot sensor will prevent torque converter from ever locking up, so you should be highly motivated to get that figured out.
ect sensor out of range will make the pcm run the engine open loop for 20 minutes each time it is started, which is too rich and can cause cat failures, which can cause serious engine damage, so you should be just as highly motivated to get that figured out.
since it is not throwing a code for the lack of spark on 4/6 cylinders, I suspect the dis is bad.
the tot sensor will prevent torque converter from ever locking up, so you should be highly motivated to get that figured out.
ect sensor out of range will make the pcm run the engine open loop for 20 minutes each time it is started, which is too rich and can cause cat failures, which can cause serious engine damage, so you should be just as highly motivated to get that figured out.
since it is not throwing a code for the lack of spark on 4/6 cylinders, I suspect the dis is bad.
DIS finally showed up. Replaced it. Started and ran for about 2 seconds, abruptly died, can't restart. Cranks fine, smells of fuel. Timing light still showing spark on two cylinders.
I'd replace the coil, but the fact that it started initially makes me think the ignition is fine.
I'm really at a loss here. This is my daily driver and it's been down two weeks.
I'd replace the coil, but the fact that it started initially makes me think the ignition is fine.
I'm really at a loss here. This is my daily driver and it's been down two weeks.
Took apart and cleaned grounds on right side firewall, right side rear of intake, right side strut tower, left side radiator header, and left side inner fender.
Got it started, but only by giving it a lot of gas pedal. It ran like **** for about a minute, smoked a lot, then settled down, no CEL.
Shut it off and disconnected ground at right side strut tower to clear KAM. Reconnected, started, performed idle reset procedure. Completed that successfully, but then it abruptly died just as I was about to test drive it.
Now, it will start normally every time, run anywhere from 10 - 30 seconds, no CEL, then abruptly die. Smells like fuel when it dies, and makes a sucking/whooshing noise in the intake. I can keep it running by using the gas pedal, but after it tries to die I get a CEL and fuel smell.
Codes are:
111
111
It also threw the following codes once, but a subsequent KOEO test didn't show them:
159 (O,R) MAF sensor is/was out of range - MAF
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test
521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP
632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
Not sure why it's throwing codes for KOER test.
Seems like it ran well until it got up to temp. Since then, it has trouble once it gets past the initial start/idle phase. I'll try it again once it cools down to verify.
Got it started, but only by giving it a lot of gas pedal. It ran like **** for about a minute, smoked a lot, then settled down, no CEL.
Shut it off and disconnected ground at right side strut tower to clear KAM. Reconnected, started, performed idle reset procedure. Completed that successfully, but then it abruptly died just as I was about to test drive it.
Now, it will start normally every time, run anywhere from 10 - 30 seconds, no CEL, then abruptly die. Smells like fuel when it dies, and makes a sucking/whooshing noise in the intake. I can keep it running by using the gas pedal, but after it tries to die I get a CEL and fuel smell.
Codes are:
111
111
It also threw the following codes once, but a subsequent KOEO test didn't show them:
159 (O,R) MAF sensor is/was out of range - MAF
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test
521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP
632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
Not sure why it's throwing codes for KOER test.
Seems like it ran well until it got up to temp. Since then, it has trouble once it gets past the initial start/idle phase. I'll try it again once it cools down to verify.
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kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
How does it run off idle?
Have you tried unplugging the maf?
Have you tried unplugging the maf?
93rev2sev
SHO Member
That car needs a front 60k.
my 2cents
my 2cents
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