Creaking in front, almost all new TPR. ;(

[SHOMA]

UPDATE: I checked the bushing right below the drivers pedals, while turning the wheel back and forth, and it is the bushing, moving only a couple millimeters, but it is metal on metal. I loosened it, its gone, and then I tightened it pretty tight with a ratchet, and its also gone. Its when I really torque it down that the creaking is there... There is also some oil/trans fluid on there from when the axle seal was leaking, could that be making the metal slide easier, making it not seat itself against the frame perfectly? I'm enthused, because Im closer to fixing the problem, it definitely is the bushing.. I just hope the floor isnt caved in there. BTW it is a ring style bushing.. Any recommendations? Also, using a regular sized rachet and tightening it as tight as i can without thinking im breaking it, am I putting roughly the right amount of torque on it? It could have been overtorqued... One step closer though!
Kevin

 

[Ishodu]

What kind of TQ are you putting on the bolt?

 

[SHOtimer]

BTW it is a ring style bushing.. Any recommendations? Also, using a regular sized rachet and tightening it as tight as i can without thinking im breaking it, am I putting roughly the right amount of torque on it? It could have been overtorqued... One step closer though!
Kevin

There have been many controversial threads on here, about how the ring bushings cause the problem that you are describing. Do not tighten them more than 80lbs, that will make the problem worse (no subframe bushing should have more torque on it than that). I had this problem on my SHO, I had to hammer the unibody back flat and installed 'cup' style bushings, and the problem went away.

Doug

 

[SHOMA]

What kind of TQ are you putting on the bolt?

I dont know how muich torque im putting on them, I posted above asking how much approx everyone thought I was putting on it by tightening a regular sized ratchet as tight as I could get it. Only thing is, when I lightened it up some, it seemed like the bushing would soon come loose... (although the noise was gone). I have no problem in putting the cup style bushings in it, if thats the problem, but I cannot tell for sure yet.. I was thinking the grease from the axle seal leak, could be allowing the mnetal to move around on the frame of the car, so if I took the bushing down and cleaned it all up with a degreaser, think itd take care of it?
Kevin

 

[SHOtimer]

The proper torque is 80lbs. Also, if you switch to the cup style without correcting the damage to the unibody it will make it worse because the deformed unibody has no place to go, it must be hammered back up. It would probably also benefit you after you hammer it back up to perform the subframe recall.

Doug

 

[SHOMA]

the subframe recall was done, I have the holes in the floor to prove it, and these bolts were replaced last year when I had these bushings put in.. Im not sure yet that the ring style is whats doing it, I mean I think if I clean the oil/grease out of all over it, it may stop it from being able to move at all, dont you think?
Kevin

 

[SHOtimer]

Well, the ring style IMO can cause the damage when they are overtorqued. When overtorqued they pull the unibody down and into the bushings, which can cause what you are experiencing. But, if torqued to 80lbs, and not overtorqued they can be used without problems.

So, it depends on if they have been overtorqued and distorted the unibody (this is what happened to my SHO by the tranny shop). You could clean the grease and go from there, can't hurt.


Doug

 

[SHOMA]

Well, the person who installed/tightened these bushings was the maker of them, so I would sure hope he didnt overtorque them... IF that is the case, I can always pound the floor back flat, and put this one back in, torqued correctly, right?
One of my questions was this: If I have a regular sized medium rachet, with a socket on it, and push as hard as i can to tighten it, what would the average guy be putting on it for torque?

 

[SHOtimer]

Well, the person who installed/tightened these bushings was the maker of them, so I would sure hope he didnt overtorque them... IF that is the case, I can always pound the floor back flat, and put this one back in, torqued correctly, right?
One of my questions was this: If I have a regular sized medium rachet, with a socket on it, and push as hard as i can to tighten it, what would the average guy be putting on it for torque?

Well, I assume he would have done it correctly. Maybe if he is close you should bring him your SHO and see what he says...

I haven't a clue how much torque that would be.

Doug

 

[SHOMA]

hes about an hour and a half away, and I figured out what it is now, I may as well pull the bushing down, and check for damage myself.. Im glad at this point I know it isnt something that will break or tear the car apart, but it is a damn annoying noise, let me tell you!

 

[SHOtimer]

I went through the same process you are, I know exactly how annoying that is...

Doug

 

[SHOMA]

And what did you end up finding? I'm very happy i made progress enough to know its the bushing, now its just how to solve it... This noise has been plaguing me for months, I wish I checked that darn bushing before.. although all along i have been saying that its the bushing, i can feel it right below my feet at the pedals..

 

[SHOtimer]

I ended up finding that my subframe bolts had been overtightened with the 'ring' bushings and I had to drop the subframe a bit and hammer the unibody back flat (which is no easy chore). Then I replaced all the bushings with Gen III rear bushings which I am enjoying very much. They are a lot better than stock, and a bit more liveable than aluminum. But, mimick aluminum in their performance.

Doug