Crank pulley removal tool

[CALL AAA]

I know that there has been a lot of talk about crank pullies lately, but SEARCH isn't turning up anything, so I'll ask. Is there a special tool to remove the crank pulley, or will any 3 prong pulley do it? OR, is there a 1-size-fits- all puller, made especially for crank pullies?
And about how much is a new pulley? I heated up the bolt to get it out, and some rubber in the pulley started to melt. That can't be good!
Thanks,
Tony

 

[DavidT]

Autozone has the harmonic balancer puller in their loan-a-tool program. It is a $15 fully refundable fee. thumbs_u

 

[CALL AAA]

Sweet. I'll be at autozone if anyone needs me. Does anyone want anything from KFC while I'm out?

 

[DavidT]

BTW, I hope you have as much fun as me (with removing your pulley and sprocket) squint

 

[CALL AAA]

Yeah, I've been following that, buit I don't fully understand what's going on......yet.......

 

[rangerj]

Tony,

The dampner/pulley puller is about $35. It is pretty much a universal puller. the Auto Zone puller should be OK.

The puller set should have a thrust washer that sits on the end of the crankshaft. The puller bolt will press against this washer and "Pull" the pulley off by the bolts threaded into the pulley.

The washer should be the same size (approximately) as the end of the crank, and should not interfere with the pulley.

If the bolt holes are rusted, run a tap or a bolt through them a few times with penetrating oil to clean them up. Make sure whatever you use it is the same size and thread pitch (DAH).

The washer should have a "dimple" in the middle of it to keep the puller bolt from "wandering from the center. If the puller set up you get does not have a thrust washer, and you have to put the puller bolt down in the crankshaft, you MUST PROTECT THE CRANKSHAFT THREADS.

Tape up the threads of the puller bolt to protect the threads of the crankshaft. I have at times taped pieces of wood (popcycle stick) to the puller bolt. You do NOT want to damage the crankshaft threads.

Spray a little penetrating oil on the end of the crankshaft. This helps the pulley "slide" off of the crank.

Before you do any disassenbly, set the engine up on Top Dead Center (on the compression stroke) on the no. one cylinder. You can crank it over by hand with the crank bolt with the car in neutral, and the battery out.

You can loosen the no. 1 sparkplug and listen for the compressed air escaping, or use a compression guage. When you pull the top timing belt cover the cams will be lined up with the marks.

If you melted the rubber in the pulley, start looking for a replacement! rangerj thumbs_u

 

[rktmn]

The bolts from the water pump have the same thread pattern as the holes in the crank shaft pulley that you use to pull it out.

I used a simple universal puller that had the slot for the two puller bolts, and left the crankshaft bolt half way in to protect the threads. As the pulley came out, I moved the crankshaft bolt out with the pulley. If you don't understand what I am talking oubout I will take some photos tomorrow and post then so you can see the setup.

Jose

 

[CALL AAA]

Well, it's off.
Damn, I wish I had read rengerj's message before I went out there. The puller has a little bullet looking thing on the end, and I don't think anything went wrong while I was pulling it. I'll have to take a look in there tomorrow. If I did damage it, I may be closer to a 3.3L than I thought. Don't tell my wife that.

As for the timing belt, I marked the belt/cam gears, the cam gears/timing cover (against the heads) belt/crank sprocket and the sprocket and block (?) Should this be enough, since I jumped the TDC step?

 

[DavidT]

Tony, how did you change your name??????
As long as you used the bullet looking thing on the end of the bolt that goes into the crankshaft (on the puller) you should be fine. All the ones I have used from Autozone are oversized and will not make it to the threads.
And as long as you lined up the cam sprocket dots with the marks on the back timing belt cover, and lined up the white mark on the pulley with the "0" on the lower t.b. cover... you are all set. Of course, if the crankshaft moved while removing the pulley, you will have to realign the dot on the crank sprocket with the mark on the back timing belt cover (about the 5 o'clock position.) One thing to remember is to NOT rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise (unless it is only VERY little)!
As for me, my belt is off, and none of the 3 sprockets are lined up
Did your sprocket come off easily (you may not even be removing it though)? If so, did your woodruff key come out?
I would love to see a pic. of your woodruff key while its in position! I am still against a dead end on mine.

 

[CALL AAA]

Yeah, I don't need to remove the sprocket, but if I can get my hands on a dig camera, I will get a picture of it for you.
And after hearing all this alignment stuff, I really hope I didn't screw something up. I marked a lot of stuff, but it may n ot have been enough. If it wasn't can I still figure out how to get it back together, by putting the #1 cyl in position, and moving eveything else (cams) to certain positions?

By the way, the mods changed my name for me. Thanks Jason!

<small>[ March 02, 2003, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: CALL AAA ]</small>

 

[CALL AAA]

I should also get a picture of the jig (for crank bolt removal) and how that works. It ended up being pretty useful, and someone else mentioned that he might want one!

 

[DavidT]

yeah, its all doable thumbs_u
If anything gets out of line, just redo it. As for me, I guess I will have to use a strap wrench to get the cam sprockets back in line. The crank can get in line by inserting the crank bolt and once its snug, rotating it clockwise until the marks are aligned. I will email you the timing belt procedure that Scott Patterson so kindly emailed me thumbs_u

 

[DavidT]

oh well, I can't find the procedure. Shoot him an email if you get lost. His procedure and shojuan (Rick) are what got me through it a while back. In the mean time, check this

 

[CALL AAA]

Ahhhhh, good stuff! Thanks Dave and Scott!

 

[srfdude]

Tony, Jon off MiraMar just did that. He had to go and get a thread chaser to clean up the threads in the crank. Wish I had seen your post earlier; the unit from AZ will cause this problem if you're not looking for it.
Mike