Crank but no start...

[40BelowSummer]

- The car cranks fine but wont start.

- No voltage to Fuse #1

- Tachometer and turn signals are not working

I suspect a fusible link. How do I test the fusible links? I know HOW but not WHERE to test them.

PLEASE HELP

Mods: sorry for a new post, this one asks different questions and the other is getting very cluttered

THANKS

PS I NEED to get this running ASAP and will have AIM running so please IM me if you can help or just post

AIM: Palmer83221

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Codes?

 

[40BelowSummer]

No codes, which seems odd.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

#1 check for spark

pull a spark plug, put a screwdriver into it, then put the scredriver to the metal on the manifold or whereever, crank the engine.

#2 check for fuel

undo the schrader valve and see if fuel sprays out while cranking the engine. watch your eyes and always do #1 before #2!

 

[projectSHO89]

Unfortunately, you failed to dientify which of the cars in your signature this is about. My instructions apply specifically to the 89. maybe to the 91.

Fuse links are nothing more than a smaller guage piece of wire spliced onto a larger one. If too much current flows through the circuit, the smaller wire "blows" by opening. They are checked by using a voltmeter across the link in a powered ciricuit, or by checking for continuity with an ohmmeter in an un-powered circuit.

Fuse F1 is suppled by FUSE LINK "E". (BLACK). It is attached to the same lug on the starter relay as is the main cable from the battery. It is a short piece of BLK/ORG wire that then has several pieces of of black 16 ga wire spliced to it, including a YELLOW wire. If the starter motor engages when the ignition key is turned to START, the link is fine and there must be an open circuit somewhere between splice S121 and the fuse box.

Other circuits supplied by this same feed via S121 include the DIS module, the crank and cam sensors. The feed for these is a RED/LT GREEN wire via another fuselink.

Steve

 

[40BelowSummer]

Steve,

Yes the starter engages. What does not work is the tachometer and the blinkers and no power to FUSE1 as noted. I found a long black butt connector with a Red w/ LT GRN wire and a 20 Guage Blue FUSE LINK on one end and nothing on the other end. I do not see a wire that looks like it would go there, but it is getting 12V when the key is on.

I look forward to your response

Thanks

 

[40BelowSummer]

the 1991 BTW as you may or may not tell by my sig my 89' is my parts car

 

[40BelowSummer]

Codes decided to come up this morning:

21 & 24 ( ECT and ACT sensors out of range)

also the air bag light flashed 4 times continuously, during testing which i never seen although it usually comes on and stays on while driving,

HELP

 

[40BelowSummer]

Helllllp, anybody. I was supposed to be on my way on a 10 hour trip.

Turn signals and tach do not work.

Brake lamps, and starter do work. Fuse 1 does have voltage, I was wrong before.

Codes 21 & 24

PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO TEST FOR VOLTAGE AND ILL DO IT

thanks

Standing by.......

 

[40BelowSummer]

Changed DIS, tries to start now but wont. Can hear fuel pump priming and seems to be getting spark.

NO TACHOMETER

No codes come up (except 11 = system checks OK)

What next....? Please

 

[40BelowSummer]

Car runs!! No tachometer/fuel gauge

Codes:

KOEO - 11 (No codes)

KOER - 66 98

 

[projectSHO89]

Don't know why it runs because that blue fuse link on the RED/LT GREEN wire is the one that is supposed to supply the important stuff, like the DIS, the CPS, and the CID sensor among other things.

Steve W

 

[HighSpeed]

Did you happen to check the codes after the engine reached normal driving temp?

 

[40BelowSummer]

Okay so I got the car running and took my chances and drove it 100 miles tonight to my first destination on a trip I am taking.

Seems to run fine except:

CE light ALWAYS on while driving

No tachometer

According to temp gauge seems to run cold (below L, but in normal range, which is colder than usual)


CODES:

KOEO: 66

KOER: 98, 66

During KOER the codes immediately came out, I did not even hear it doing any tests like usual and I did not do the goose test because a) no tachometer b) it spit codes out before I had a chance. It also stalled this time during KOER,, and seemed to run okay during the drive



Appreciate any response as Im driving 10 hours tomorrow

 

[40BelowSummer]

Steve,

The RED/ LT GRN wire is spliced to a blue fuse link on one end of what looks to be a long narrow butt connector, which has nothing spliced on the other end. It has 12V when key is on.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Code 66 is gone, bad connection on MAF.
Still code 21 on KOER & no tach

 

[40BelowSummer]

Okay heres where Im at:

Car seems to run fine. Got code 66 and CE light fixed (connector on MAF was bad)

But I still get code 21 on KOER (I thought the engine was at operating temp) and NO TACHOMETER. It also seems to run cooler than normal (below "L" but in normal_ which may have something to do with code 21?

Help Im going on a 10 hour drive today soon.

Thanks so much for you help, I am very grateful.

 

[Mike Kelly]

Possible tach fix

Try running the engine through the rpm range while driving, and see if the tach comes back to life after the engine sees the high rpm range. This cured my non operational tack after a battery failure. Just a thought. Mike Kelly

 

[40BelowSummer]

20 miles into my 800 miles trip (Idaho to Las Vegas) the car started bucking like crazy which has happened in the past. And the tach was going crazy. The bucking went away and now I have tach. But this problem keeps happening. If I give it a long break it goes away. I suspect a crank sensor.

KOEO: 14, 19

Can someone rule out the cam sensor so I can be sure its the crank sensor?

Well I am in Provo, Utah (south of salt lake city) and I am going to try to make the rest of the trip.

Thanks in advance.

 

[richsho]

Cam sensor only used for start ups at least thats what i've read in about 3 of my sho magazines, out of 40 that i have ! Dear Vito! that what he says ,Sounds like crank sensor.