Crank but no start- Fuel Pump circuit? PATS? Please help with ideas

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nomov8sho

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Been off the forums for a while, but here's the situation:

'97, currently will not fire but will crank over. The theft light is blinking regularly as soon as the ignition is turned to run, it goes off in about 45sec to a minute with no coded blinks.

I just replaced the fuel pump since I thought at first that was the issue. It fired up and then died on me as I was trying to leave work a while back. Thought it was the fuel pump because I was not hearing the pump run when I first turned it on. I'm not sure if it was blinking the theft light at that time. It would crank over but not fire.

I had it towed home, it sat while I tracked down parts to replace the fuel pump, and then on impulse I tried to start it and it fired right up. It died a few minutes later, would not fire over to restart, but cranked just fine. This is the point I first noticed the theft light.

Since I was not hearing the fuel pump, I replaced it with the new pump. Got everything buttoned back up, and turned it to run and back off about 10 times without starting, to get the pump primed. I could hear the pump running during this. Started it up, it ran for about 5-10 seconds, then died. Once again, no sound of the pump priming when I first turn it to run, even after it has sat for a long time.

Additional tests I've done:
-It will not start in neutral.
-I have tried unhooking and re-connecting the battery multiple times, with plenty of time unhooked to reset computer codes. No improvement.
-Sometimes it will lock out the shifter, sometimes not.
-I have tried various tilt positions for the steering wheel to see if something is losing contact on the sensor ring for the PATS system at the ignition lock, no change.
-The fuel pump fuse in the underhood master power distribution fuse box thingy (can't remember the acronym) is fine.
-It WILL fire over with starter fluid sprayed in the flex hose ahead of the Throttle Body.

My research is pointing to a PATS issue, which is a real problem for me since I am down to only 1 key after the fob, master key, and 1 spare were lost when I had it at a body shop.

Immediate questions for those more knowledgeable than me:

Will the PATS system disable the fuel pump on a '97?
Are there any other fuses or wiring I should check to see if it really is a fuel pump powering issue?
If it is a PATS issue, shouldn't it blink a code before the theft light goes off?

Any recommendations? Anyone have a complete '97 PATS module and matching ECU with at least 2 keys that they are looking to sell? I'm about ready to throw in the towel on this one. I'm sure if I take it to the stealership they will charge me a huge fortune and not get it fixed.

Much appreciation in advance for any ideas / help.
Thanks,
-Josh
 

nomov8sho

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Additional info I forgot on the first post:

-I also tried replacing the Crank sensor, with no change
-Cams are welded, no hint of cam problems

Thanks,
-Josh
 

E1

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Don't think. Just do it.

Go get on a big honkin' pair of hiking boots. Put your foot on the gas pedal.

Kick.

STRAIGHT UP, 4 or 5 times.

Start the car.
 

nomov8sho

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Fonzie failed me. Also unplugged and replugged PATS module above gas pedal with no result.

Any other ideas?

-Josh
 

SHOMEX

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I am pretty sure it's going to be the ring around the ignition switch or a loose connection from the ring to the module; I had the same issue with my car. You need to remove the ignition switch and the steering column cover to inspect the ring and connections really well. Your problem is the Pats system cutting power to the fuel pump.
 

nomov8sho

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Thanks. I'm 99% sure the issue is PATS related at this point, but it would be good to validate that the new pump does work.

I'll probably tear into it again this weekend. I thought I saw an instruction on how to jumper the fuel pump directly to battery power to test function a while back, but can't seem to find it. Anybody have a link handy?

-Josh
 

nomov8sho

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