Crank bult won't come out

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SHO M0nk3y

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I'm doing this the same way on my 90 as me and my dad did on my moms 95 ATX. I put a rubber strap pipe wrench on the crank pully and bring it around so it locks onto the pully while the handle is held in by the subframe. On my moms ATX this work fine, I was able to get the bult off using a ratchet with about an 8 inches long handle. With mine I used the extention for the rechet that makes the handle about 18 to 20 inches long and all i managed to do is bend the extention :rant:. Any ideas on what to do? :confused:
 

FAST4DR

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The easiest way to get the bolt off is to bump start the motor. Put a ratchet on the bolt and set the handle towards the front of the car and against the subframe. Then disconnect your DIS on the intake crossover tube and then get in the car and just very quickly bump the starter. It should break the bolt free. I also recommend putting a little heat on the bolt first. Take a propane torch and put it right on the bolt. Get it pretty hot but not too hot. Then let it cool a little and try the bump start method. It seems oposite of what you want to do, cause the heat will expand the bolt, but the expansion breaks the corrosion on the threads.

I helped a guy get the bolt off his 91 and we hit the starter so many times that we eventually tore the head of the bolt to pieces. Had to go to sears and get those sockets that grab onto messed up bolts. Finally we heated the bolt and then hit the starter and it came loose. The threads barely had any corrosion on them, but it is amazing how little it takes to lock that damn bolt in there.

Will
 

SHO M0nk3y

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The reason why I'm not doing it that way is cause my intake and valve covers are off because i'm in the process of ordering shims. Also my battery and battery shevel are already out. If it wasn't for all this I would have bumb started the motor.
 

Ferendon

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Take the starter off, get a good lifetime warranty prybar, and jam it in the teeth of the flywheel. The fly is pretty damn tough, and I doubt it'll damage it noticably, if at all. O'Reilly has a set of 4 for like $10, and they're pretty sturdy. I've used them for all kinds of stuff. Got mine at Army Navy, for $4... The exact some ones too.
 

DHMag

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attach the battery via jumper cables, make sure the DIS is unplugged (or unplug the coil pack for insurance), and bump the starter
 

SHO M0nk3y

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DHMag said:
attach the battery via jumper cables, make sure the DIS is unplugged (or unplug the coil pack for insurance), and bump the starter
if i do this will the oil pump still pump, because like i said before my vavle covers aren't on and i don't want to make a mess.
 

Dr. Tweak

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SHO M0nk3y said:
if i do this will the oil pump still pump, because like i said before my vavle covers aren't on and i don't want to make a mess.

The engine only turns for like, 1/8 of a second. I doubt you'll have a problem.
 

DHMag

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its not a pushrod motor, it wont sling oil as bad.

SHO M0nk3y said:
if i do this will the oil pump still pump, because like i said before my vavle covers aren't on and i don't want to make a mess.
 

Ferendon

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LoL, I've never seen a SHO motor slinging oil, but I've seen a old 200 I6 do it.... It's messy. We were working on it at night, and got tired so we put everything up and went inside. The next morning we came outside, did a little more and went to crank her up. Right as Paul started to turn the key I told him to hang on a sec... My dumb *** picked up the rocker cover, which wasn't bolted down, and tried to show it to him to remind him.
 

SHO M0nk3y

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:madflame: The starter thing did work, it sounds like the starter is slipping. The only thing I haven't tried yet is heat, but the problem is the only thing i got to do this is a hair dryer.

I'm getting really PO'd because i have the upper timing belt cover off and the belt looks fairly new, so the bolt can't have the much corrosion on it :rant:.
 
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Try giving the ratchet a tiny bit of slack so the starter can get some momentum going.. Took me several times to get mine off because I used a breaker bar so it kind of jumped off the board I used to level it on the subframe.
 

Dogitch

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I had this problem on my car. Move everything in front of engine out of the way. Use a 19mm socket-1/2 inch drive, don't use a ratchet, use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, also try not to use an extension- take hood off- position 1/2 inch drive breaker bar so that the handle is going up- I used a piece of 1 inch galvinized conduit 4' as a long extension- this will fit over breaker bar- now you can get a lot of leverage by standing in front of the car and just pushing bar back. Mine came off with a stripped head by doing it this way. I was also able to break a crank bolt from another engine on a stand this way-I couldn't get this with an impact gun. Just a thought, hope it helps
 

SHO M0nk3y

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now i have a problem with the strap wrench, it keeps slipping off the sub frame. I think I can fix that problem with a 2x4. wish me luck.
 

roswell998

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If you still are not able to hold the harmonic balancer with a strap wrench, take a look at a thread I wrote on this recently:

http://shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=31753

Note that the bushings are definitely needed and the 2 bolts into the harmonic balancer must be fairly tight. This will result in those 2 bolts being placed in shear. If the bushings are not there, then the 2 bolts will bend and possibly break. However, it would not be necessary that the bushings be welded.

Good luck :)

Ashton
 

SHO M0nk3y

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roswell998 said:
If you still are not able to hold the harmonic balancer with a strap wrench, take a look at a thread I wrote on this recently:

http://shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=31753

Note that the bushings are definitely needed and the 2 bolts into the harmonic balancer must be fairly tight. This will result in those 2 bolts being placed in shear. If the bushings are not there, then the 2 bolts will bend and possibly break. However, it would not be necessary that the bushings be welded.

Good luck :)

Ashton
I have the strap wrench right on the pully
 

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