CPS, or something more... HELP!!!

[Will]

I know this has been asked over and over, but i'm in a real bind. I'm on vacation, and the car decided to take a crap. We went about 1,000 miles, through small towns, and the car started to miss a little. It then died, and wouldnt start. Let it sit for a few minutes, then it would start, idle very poorly, then die again. However, the longer it sits, the longer it will drive normally. I understand this to be the cps, but being 1000 miles from home, wanted to make sure. Also, I did not check the tach when it stalled, but sometimes right after it stalled, and i tried to start it, it would spit and sputter, but not start. Thanks for all the help. Im hanging in New Mexico. Thanks, Will

 

[AutoSHO]

Sounds more like a plugged fuel filter or bad Fuel pump. Does it matter how much fuel is in the tank? I'd have a mechanic check the fuel pressure (or you could get a gauge).

 

[Will]

We put a new fuel filter in the car after it did this, and it still did it. And when i turn the key on, the pump still hums like it always has, so i assume its alright. Thanks, Will

 

[projectSHO89]

Where are you? Maybe some SHOTimer is in the area and can help salvage your vacation.

Steve

 

[autobahnsho]

Will:

I was having similar problems, and after checking the fuel pressure, checking the engine codes (shotimes.com under maintenance), changed the cps. What a joy.

Mine runs fine now..

If you get in a super bind and it absolutely won't start, try unplugging the battery, turning the key on, and holding the brake pedal down for about 30 seconds. This drains the computer power and resets it.

DON'T FORGET to turn the key OFF before plugging the battery back up. It will start and run a little sluggish, the idle will reset soon.

Good luck!

 

[stevesho3o]

i would check your fuel pump shut off switch/fuel pump relay cause if thats bad it will want to stall or not start like in my case not start...maybe it got hot and is just barely working and they only cost about ten bucks so its not that bad

 

[sdpatt]

Very sorry to hear of your misfortune. I know that we all fear this no matter what car we are vacationing in.

That does NOT sound like a CPS failure. When that part fails, the engine just cuts out like you turned off the ignition key. No misfire. No stumbling. No power loss. Just dead.

Did the CHECK ENGINE light illuminate before teh engine shut down? Have you checked the codes? All it takes is a short jumper (paper clip) and the ignition key. See how in the links in my signature. The code descriptions are also in those links.

It sounds like a thermally related failure of the fuel pump or the DIS module or related circuitry. How much fuel was in the tank when it started? If below a 1/4 tank, it could incriminate the fuel pump. Check the connections to the DIS and the tightness of the 12mm bolts that secure the intake balance tube to the front and rear plenum brackets.

Good fortunes in solving your problem.

 

[Will]

We are in santa fe, New mexico, and will be going down to the auto zone to try to fix it. I will see if they can help w/ the code checking. The check engine light has not come on that i have seen. This sucks a lot. Thanks for all the help, will

 

[Will]

Oh yeah, the tank is about half full, maybe a little more than that.

 

[Will]

I ran the tests with the engine off, then on.

With the engine off, the only codes I got that mean anything is a 112, and a 212. The 212 is the dis module isnt it? would that explain the problems?

With the car running, the only code i got that was anything is a 116. The car has not been getting hot or anything, and i dont think this would cause that, would it?

Thanks, Will

 

[sdpatt]

The 212 is defined below.

212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault

Check those DIS connectors for tightness and corrosion. It could also be a bad ground to the DIS module. Check the braided ground strap from the firewall to the upper bolt on the passenger side rear intake manifold bracket and the tightness of those two 12mm bolts that hold the intake's balance tube (and DIS) to the intake. If it is not a loose connection or ground fault, it may be a DIS internal fault. Good luck.

 

[Will]

Ok, eveything is grounded, and tight. I ran the code check w/o the dis connected, and didnt get any new codes, which makes me believe it is that module, correct? We ordered a new module when we finally found one at the cost of $241. Expensive but we had to have it. Thanks a lot for the help, it means a whole lot to me and my family. Thanks a whole lot, Will

 

[Dr.Evil]

I hope the DIS is the only pronblem. I had similar problems a couple weeks ago, and here is how I fixed it.

I replaced the MAP, MAF and IAB sensors, and tightened the ground cable (was loose) I think I actually had two problems at once. Before the MAP and MAF, the car would not even start. Then it would just die for no apparent reason. So I replaced the IAB and tightened down the ground (make sure the bottom nut on the intake support is tight also) and that fixed everything.

I hope it is just the DIS, but if it isn't, try those.
Good luck. thumb

 

[Oh_4sho]

Will i had same problem

I had the same problem.I changed dis and ran mulitiplr tests.It ended up being my CPS sensor.My money is on that.Good luck.