Moneypit
New Member
Is there any (cheap) ways to make my car corner better, it has new shocks and struts but it seems to tilt a bit far when i corner slightly fast, not crazy fast but quickly? 
Cornering
- Thread starter Moneypit
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
AutoSHO
No SHO = Mo $$$
Upgrade the Front and rear Sway bars, and buy some Aluminum Subframe Bushings.
Subframe connectors.... i sell them for 60 bucks...check this site out http://www.shophoenixproject.com/sfc/sfc.htm
SHOkid13
Take it to the track
One thing that helps a lot is the rear sway bar. You can get a used one at a junk yard for cheep. Just make sure it is at least 25mm (1") in diameter. Also, polyurethane or TPR bushings make a night and day difference. A good sway bar is useless without good bushings.
IIRC Gen I SHO's had the 26mm sway bar, and some others have a bigger one too. Just crawl under a few with your calipers and start measuring.
IIRC Gen I SHO's had the 26mm sway bar, and some others have a bigger one too. Just crawl under a few with your calipers and start measuring.
SHOkid13
Take it to the track
SHOman24v said:
Is there any difference in the rigidity of the two gauges available? And, what's the weight difference?
Thanks!!
SHOkid13
Take it to the track
SHOman24v said:
Maybe this is a dumb question: Where do I jack then? Also, I will be purchasing a "pad lift" soon, will that damage these SFCs?
SHOkid13
Take it to the track
SHOman24v said:
How much longer does it take to get the 11 gauge's?
SHOkid13
Take it to the track
SHOman24v said:
Okay, sounds good... last two questions: How long to get them, and how much for shipping? (16 gauge)
drivinhard
New Member
Tires Tires Tires! Nothing else you do with the car makes much difference in sheer cornering grip
thebigjimsho
LSA = YUM
And right behind Mark, wider wheels, wider wheels, wider wheels to go with those tires.
By far #1 and #2! Tires and wheels!
By far #1 and #2! Tires and wheels!
SHOkid13
Take it to the track
thebigjimsho said:
Good points! Without good rubber you'd have no need to stiffen up the frame, cuz yer slidin'!
I am in process for some BFG *-Force KDW 2. I hear they are super sticky and last a long time... AND they look kewl!
drivinhard
New Member
Yes, wider wheels as well! A 3500 lb taurus is to big/heavy for 6" wheels. Something in the 7.5-8" width range with 225-235 rubber is a huge improvement.
For an example, I ran my 92 at summit point for several track days a few years back, on Dunlop SP8000's (pretty stick "Z" street tire) on 6" slicers. Car would run about 1:40/lap. This was with a few bolt ons (MAF/Ypipe). The next time I ran an event there, I had a few less hp that before (stock MAF/stock ypipe) BUT had DOT Comp tires (V700) on 7.5" rims. (I realize this is an extreme example, in going from street tires to race tires, but...) Result? Lap times around 1:36. That's 4 secs faster, with probably 10 less hp. 4 secs at 100 mph (counting past the starting line) is ~40 car lengths. That's huge.
Going from bread n butter tires to performance tires on the street, is the same basic thing though.
For an example, I ran my 92 at summit point for several track days a few years back, on Dunlop SP8000's (pretty stick "Z" street tire) on 6" slicers. Car would run about 1:40/lap. This was with a few bolt ons (MAF/Ypipe). The next time I ran an event there, I had a few less hp that before (stock MAF/stock ypipe) BUT had DOT Comp tires (V700) on 7.5" rims. (I realize this is an extreme example, in going from street tires to race tires, but...) Result? Lap times around 1:36. That's 4 secs faster, with probably 10 less hp. 4 secs at 100 mph (counting past the starting line) is ~40 car lengths. That's huge.
Going from bread n butter tires to performance tires on the street, is the same basic thing though.
billyshoe
New Member
The key is to get the rear as stiff as possible and go from there. Forget about the front anti sway bar, infact if you remove it it will help the front traction.
DHMag
Free At Last
after watching SHOMurphs SR-69 in action this past weekend, i believe he has a very nice track car. Gen1 with 24/26 swaybars, 17" wheels rolling on unknown size Potenza RE70s, subframe connectors, Al SFBs, Tokicos, modified Cargo Coils, TPR bushing throughout. approaching 90MPH on a tight curve, body shows no sign of roll.
on my car, i just have 24/26, Tokicos, modified Cargo Coils, Al SFBs, poly swaybar bushings, sticky all performance tires. while its hold very well at high speeds, there is slight body roll. before the new tires, my new suspension was worthless. im in agreement that tires make all the difference.
on my car, i just have 24/26, Tokicos, modified Cargo Coils, Al SFBs, poly swaybar bushings, sticky all performance tires. while its hold very well at high speeds, there is slight body roll. before the new tires, my new suspension was worthless. im in agreement that tires make all the difference.
AutoSHO
No SHO = Mo $$$
In a track car they might consider dropping the front bar down to a 22mm or even a 20.6mm bar... It will reduce understeer and improve corner exit traction.
Nobody mentioned bushings... all around: try either polyurethane or TPR and maybe in this order sway bar bushings back and front, new endlinks front and back, then consider even subframe bushings, aluminum or Gen 3 upgrades (i recommend these) and not only there will be less roll, but you'll lose some of that torque steer too. It's totally different car after you do all that... You can also by all this as a kit for around $200 or less if you just get some and not all
good luck
good luck
Similar threads
