Cooling System Overhaul

[REDSTAR]

as i have previously stated.. i have been accepted to UTI-tech in Phoenix,Arizona.. i want to make absolutely sure that my taurus's cooling system is performing top notch to contend with the rediculous heat down there.. my school is right in phoenix and i am going to end up living in Tempe.. it can get busy down town and lots of stop and go driving can be expected at times.. couple that with 100 degree heat and it can be pretty ******* a car.. right now my cooling system seems to function OK.. but it seems to run a little hot at times.. stop and go driving even in the winter here would net the taurus's temp guage to hover around the 0 in NORMAL.. this seems a little high to me.. even though it is impossible to tell with the rediculous idiot guage.. i just want opinions on all sensors, thermostats, and such which will provide me with maximum cooling effectiveness to keep my car running well down in the heat..

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

that does seem high for a Michigan winter...

But then again, as you said, the temp guage is hardly an acurate guage. I figure if your t-stat and cooling fan are working properly, your radiator and heater core are clear and leak free, and your coolant sensors working properly you should be fine. Just remember that that ENTIRE range on the guage [N-O-R-M-A-L] is just that, normal.

"So when were they last replaced?" is the question I would ask... thumb

Your post only suggests preventative maintenance... now get to it

 

[sdpatt]

Relax, The SHO's cooling system is more than capable of handling 100+ degree heat with margin to spare.

Since you mentioned that the gauge stays in the "comforatable" range unless you are in stop and go driving, I would check the air flow through the radiator and the operation of the cooling fan. Clean out all of the bugs and debris from the A/C condensor and the radiator. Ensure that the foam seals are intact between these two heat exchangers. Ensure the lower black plastic air dam is attached solidly.

Is the fan engaging automatically when the coolant temperature increases? If it is not comin on until the "O" on the gauge, the condition could be a misreading temperature sender (ECT sensor) or temperature sensor (gauge feed).

The temperature behavior should also be checked with a real temperature measurement tool to se what the real temperature of the system is at these times. If the air flow throguh the radiator and fan are healthly, the thermostat may not be opening fully. This is also a simple and inexpensive fix.

My old girl has had many hot Texas summers pulling a 3,000 pound boat without any challenge to the cooling system. A healthy SHO cooling system can handle almost anything you can ask of the car.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Here is something to consider: I replaced my green stuff (sorry, ethylene glycol) with the new Dex Cool Orange stuff and found that my car actually runs cooler. I dont know the specific heat of the orange stuff is any better than standard antifreeze because I did flush the current system out with Prestone Radiator Flush, followed by several (ie 5) drain, fill, run and drain cycles with tap water, followed by 3 cycles using distilled water. Car runs well and never gets much above the M even in summer idle conditions.

Ya know, You could sell the car to me and I could keep her here in michigan.

 

[shojuan]

IVEYSSHO:
Here is something to consider: I replaced my green stuff (sorry, ethylene glycol) with the new Dex Cool Orange stuff and found that my car actually runs cooler.

Orange Dexcool is ethylene glycol also. The only difference is in the corrosion inhibitor/anti foaming package and of course the dye used. The super duper extended life red stuff that truckers can use for 300,000 miles is ALSO ethylene glycol (of course with a different additive package). The less toxic stuff (Sierra, Prestone Low-Tox, Amsoil) is propylene glycol based, which happens to be a less efficient coolant.

Sorry, it just drives me nuts when people refer to the green stuff as ethylene glycol and the orange stuff like it's something else. Don't feel bad, even sdpatt has made this mistake.

 

[SHOZ123]

I would add some water wetter stuff. My fan comes on at the O in Normal and this is ~210F, right where it is suppose to.

I also have a solid piece of plastic that runs from the bottom of the radiator to the front of the bumper bottom (on the inside) and from fender to fender. This forces all the air entering the grill to either go through the radiator or out the wheel wells past the brakes. Very easy to make.

<small>[ April 22, 2003, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Bad move on the plastic underbody panel. The vertical plastic air dam that is no longer present on your car was designed to create a high pressure volume of air that was directed upward and into the radiator. You have removed the dam and blocked the air path from below by your modifications.

There is likely a greater quantity of air that is directed to the radiator through this lower path than through the smaller penetrations at the grill. You have actually reduced the mass of cooling air flow to your A/C condensor and radiator with your changes.

That was not an opinion, but an engineering analysis. Take it as you wish.