Cooling system modifications

[FSUSHO]

I'm wondering that with the cooling/temp problems I've seen discussed here and I've experienced with my 93 ATX, if anyone has converted to a high flow fan system. Something like a Be-Cool universal fan or similar. The top universal model pulls 2500 cfm. I'm not sure what the stocker does, but it seems kinda puny. Especially considering the temps I've experienced.

Also, has anyone switched to an aluminum radiator? Is it worth the cash? And if so which one did you use.

 

[Slo-Sho]

The stock cooling system is more than adequate for the SHO motor. If you're experiencing high temps then I'd advise you to check and diagnose the following but not limited to,

1.Verify Both fans are operational
2.Thermostat
3.ECT sensor
4.IRCM in that both HI/LO relays are working

Can you recall how hot it gets and when?

 

[FSUSHO]

I have checked the fans and they are working, with and without the A/C on. I'm not sure exactly when they are coming on. The thermo is next along with the ECT as long as the local Ford dealer has it in stock. Along with the hoses and a radiator flush. I'm not familiar with the IRCM relay (if you could elaborate on that one please).

The car normally runs between RM on the interstate. Around town it runs somewhere between I NO, usually on the high side of that. I'm not sure on the exact temp as these are guage only readings. I am in nuclear hot north Florida so I'm sure that has something to do with it. The part that boggles me is that it only started this in the past 2 weeks. I was driving back from Rhode Island, sitting in Jersey traffic when I noticed it hot. It has plenty of water (not using any either) and even some "Water Wetter" to help it out a bit. The Radiator is also less than a year old.

The big problem, and the reason I'm looking into the fan conversion, is I want to give this car to my wife to replace her Explorer. I can't have her overheating and cracking a head or the block. I don't know if you've ever been to Tallahassee, but it gets very hot, and the traffic is stop and go and very slow.

So anyway, I'm thinking a bigger fan (2500cfm low pro electric) and possibly even an aluminum radiator in the future. That's a ways off considering I need top end service.

 

[Slo-Sho]

Replacing the thermo and the ECT should do the trick. Also the SHO is a PITA to fully bleed so it will take a bit.

 

[FSUSHO]

Okay, ready for one of those really glad it wasn't me stories?

I get in to change the t-stat. The old one was broken around the ring where the o ring goes. I changed the ECT, temperature switch, rad cap, and flushed the whole system to boot. So I put it back together and started to bleed it and check my work. After a couple of starts, the car wouldn't crank. Two or three more tries, and wouldn't you know it, the starter was bad. And while looking at it I notice a leak at the t-stat housing. No problem, it must not be tightened down enough. Let me just cinch that a little....hey this is really loose....hey this stud couldn't be that long!

You guessed it, broke the stud off.

At 8pm.

So I finish putting the new starter in at 10:30pm. This morning I get up and dig the stud out, put in the new one and button it back up. Bleed, repeat.

Now for the happy ending, it works like a dream. Thanks for your help. I am still curious to know if any one has tried the aftermarket cooling upgrades. I'll keep it in mind for later.

 

[Mike Kelly]

Radiator

I hope all your cooling problems are resolved. You may want to try a double core radiator that some people have and are using now. I had Griffin Industries to make a all Aluminum radiator for my 3.2 stage two car. I was seeing some scary water temps after building it. I tried the double core radaitor and that did help a little. I reached for Griffins knowledge and the results were priceless. If your heating problem continues, look at the double core radiator first. The second option is rather expensive. Has this engine been machined before, possibly during a rebuild? Mike Kelly

 

[FSUSHO]

It has not been machined as far as I know. I bought it with 97k and not alot of documentation. No rebuild, just 60k.
I am pretty sure I fixed the temp problem. I drove it alot in stop and go today with no problems. It hovered right between R M the whole time. I let it idle for 45 mins in the driveway at 11am (@ 97 degrees) and it never budged.
I had looked at the dual core, but it's a bit pricey at the moment. I was considering adapting something out of Summit's catalog. But this rad is almost new (less than a year old) so I might wait until it goes, or I do enough modification to justify it. Especially now it is working correctly again.