Cooling Problems...I think

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SHOman24v

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recently my car has been running a bit cool, it barley gets above the white line (the line above the cold blue mark), the fans kick on between the A and the L in NORMAL instead of the M. I have changed the coolant temp sensor, thermostat, radiator, and water pump. My hoses are fine, all are new. what i am thinking is either the temp sensor isnt getting enough voltage or my guage is working incorrectly, btw the fans used to kick on between the M. Im stumped any way of fixing this problem?
 

AutoSHO

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Which temp sensor did you replace? The SHO has two, the ECT for the computer, and the sender for the instrument cluster. It sounds like you need to replace the gauge temp sender, which is the one wire sender. The ECT has two wires running to it.
 

projectSHO89

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The dash temp guage is not a precision instrument. Do not rely on it to diagnose what you think may be a marginal cooling system.

Sears sells a non-contact IR thermometer with laser pointer for $50. Invest in one and be sure if you have a real problem. You've already wasted far more than that chasing a problem that may not even exist.

Steve
 

Off Road SHO

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AutoSHO:
Which temp sensor did you replace? The SHO has two, the ECT for the computer, and the sender for the instrument cluster. It sounds like you need to replace the gauge temp sender, which is the one wire sender. The ECT has two wires running to it.
Autosho is correct, but you should have done more diagnosing and less replacing as the above poster stated. The sending unit for the gauge is a resistance to block ground type, that gives certain resistance for certain temps. They fail and should be replaced with the CORRECT one for that gauge.

And since they use the threads for the path to engine block ground, you should be carefull not to overdo the thread sealant. Most new ones from Ford come with a sealant already, don't add to it.

The factory sealant is probably the type that heats up and melts during the tremendous pressures generated during the screwing process. (That didn't sound very good, did it?)

And remember, the gauge is reading the resistance of the sending unit and the wire, so if you have corrosion of the wire or looseness of the connector, you'll have more resistance.

Tom

<small>[ October 13, 2003, 03:00 PM: Message edited by: Off Road SHO ]</small>
 

SHOman24v

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I put a new temp sensor (the one by the thermo) new thermo, tried another fan relay, new coolant, a total cost of about 25.00
 

SHOman24v

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Would putting Teflon tape on the sensor cause it not to ground properly??????
 

SHOman24v

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no, its not the teflon tape, just took it off, and i dont have corroded wires
 

SHOZ123

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At what temp are is the fan coming on at? It shouldn't normally come on until around 210F.

<small>[ October 12, 2003, 07:06 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

ord007

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Looking from the driver's side, the sender to the instrument cluster (one wire) is on the left of the thermostat; while the sensor to the computer (two wire) is on the right of the thermostat towards the firewall.

Hope this clears up which sensor is what.

Just my $0.02
 

SHOguy 92

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my car constantly runs on L also. and the fans turn on really early. i don't think much of it i mean i heard its not good to run that low but the colder the more power is what i've heard thats why guys with vettes buy really low temp thermostats.
 

SHOman24v

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boo i want my car to run in the acceptable range, anyone know the price of the sensor in the guage??
 

Mr Anonymous

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SHOman24v:
boo i want my car to run in the acceptable range, anyone know the price of the sensor in the guage??
How do you know it's not? Have you checked the actual temp as described here, or are you still just going by the gauge reading???
 

rangerj

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SHOGUY,

Go back and read what you just wrote! Think about it! Would you actually follow the example or the advice of someone who would actually buy a Corvette? HELLO!!

Seriously, you cannot modify a part of a computer controlled ignition system without taking into consideration the whole system and the interaction of all of the parts.

Engine operating temperature is an integral part of the system and is monitored by the computer. The computer is programmed to adjust for things that are not within the expected programmed perameters.

This is especially true for things that effect emissions, like operating temperature. So, any immagined increase in performance by lowering the operating temperature is lost when the computer adjusts for the lower operating temperature.

As Steve suggests above, get a true temperature reading from an indipendant source and fix whatever is not functioning properly. rangerj

Corvette guys!!! If the "Vette" guys drove their overpriced pieces of plastic off a bridge would you follow them? doh wink :D
 

projectSHO89

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rangerj:
SHOGUY,


Corvette guys!!! If the "Vette" guys drove their overpriced pieces of plastic off a bridge would you follow them? doh wink :D
Well, if it was a "cherry" mid-50's convertible, probably YES!

Steve
 

rangerj

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OK Steve,

For me it would be one of the 12 1967 L-89s, or the 1953 John Wayne Corvette. But not for one of the ordinary, everyday, Vette!!! :rolleyes: I do have some pride! rangerj :D
 

SHOman24v

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ok, just got a new sensor for the guage from FORD, now instead of it being cold its at the M in normal under normal driving conditons, is this correct for that sensor?
 

Off Road SHO

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I would say yes. The sensors are matched to the gauges. A dodge and chebbie sensor will give you erroneous readings.

I use pro-comp gauges in The Other Woman and with the stock Ford sending unit, my temp read at 150 degrees before I even start the motor.

Tom
 

AutoSHO

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SHOman24v:
ok, just got a new sensor for the guage from FORD, now instead of it being cold its at the M in normal under normal driving conditons, is this correct for that sensor?
Just out of curiousity, what letter does the fan come on at?
 

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