Coolant Mix suggestion

[rangerj]

Just as a suggestion. When mixing fresh anti- freeze (coolant) use deionized distilled water instead of tap water. The minerals in tap water, such as lime, calcium, iron, etc are what accumulates on the inside of the radiator and elsewhere in you cooling system.

Mix a gallon of anti-freeze with a gallon of deionized water for a 50/50 mix. After flushing the system blow out as much of the water used to flush the system with LOW air pressure (no more than 20 PSI). The coolant should be changed anually (once a year). Static electricity builds up in the anti-freeze and this is what deteriates the hoses from the inside.

A simple but inexpensive part that is often overlooked is the radiator cap. The cap puts pressure on the system, which raises the boiling point of the fluid. With engines designed to run at higher temperatures, this is even more important. Puting in a 180 degree thermostat is NOT a viable option. At a minimum the thermostat and radiator cap should be changer every three years. The fan(s) and temperature sensor are equally important.

With the fall season approaching, and winterizing that comes with cooler weather, this may be a good time to discuss this. This may also be a good time to discuss this given the number of forum participants that are haveing their systems running higher temperatures than usual.

SDPATT, AV8TOR, and all others, please add your suggestions and comments. The more experiences shared the better. What about additives, such as water pump ****? Where are the common leaks, and how to detect them, or better yet prevent them. Preventative maintenence tips (cooling system or otherwise)!

In the postings I see a series of common problems. Are there any suggestion out there on how we can address the problems, such as a list of common problems, diagnostics, and repair procedures. Is this kind of thing buried in the archives somewhere? This forum is a great thing. Can we improve it? rangerj

 

[smcallis]

I usually change my coolant every 24 months. But, I just bought this little can of coolant test dip sticks. You dip them in the coolant and match it to the color chart on the bottle. It checks for concentration and I think acidity (not sure exactly, have to look at the bottle again). Anyways I interpreted the 2nd check as a corrosiveness test. Does anyone have experience with these? It would be nice to not have to change the coolant more than you needed to. Oh BTW, I changed mine a year ago and it came in right at 50/50 and on the low end of the corrosive scale.

 

[rangerj]

SMCALLIS,
Please post the brand name of the test sticks, the cost, and where you got them (NAPA, Wallmart, internet site, etc).

Changing antifreeze frequently poses the problem of disposing of the old antifreeze. You cannot just dump it, or flush it into the sewers anymore.

Being able to test the antifreeze, and get reliable resuls, is crucial. I can save us the trouble of changing the coolant until it is absolutely necessary, and save us the hastle and costs of getting rid of the old stuff as frequently.

Anybody else have any of those modern chemisty tips they want to share. What about additives, such as waterpump lubs and stuff that improves the cooling efficiency? Any good luck, or bad luck, stories with additives? rangerj

 

[SHOZ123]

Unless you are adding water the concentrations should not change. You will get a slight rise in antifreeze concentration over a two year period through evaporation of water from the overflow tank though. Gen 3s have a sealed overflow system so this does not happen.

I always change my coolant at 2 year intervals, using a flush of city water , then adding a flush chemical, then flush with city water, then fill with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water.

Deionized water may have a low of high pH if the process is not controlled correctly. Distilled water should always be a pH of 7 or nuetral.