Contemplating my sound system install...

[Cl-Slick]

As the title states I am trying to decide whether or not to install my aftermarket audio system in my '95. I have two 12" MTX subs and a 650watt MTX amp. I also have a Pioneer double-din HU, but don't want to install that due to many break-ins at work. My thoughs are that it's a 15 year old Taurus and I should just leave it stock. Also, I'd like to keep this car as stock as possible, I'm not much into modding anymore. I just want more bass. I was considering adding an 8" sub in the stock box and running it from the stock JBL amp. What do you guys suggest I do?

 

[SuperHO]

line out converters are your friend.

 

[Phoenix]

line out converters are your friend.

Yup , if you need one I got one in stock. It converts speaker signal into RCAs to put in your amp. The signal isnt super strong but if you have a good amp you should be golden.

 

[NoSlo]

Stock door speakers and head unit + big subwoofers = crap sound.

I would put these as the upgrade choices:
1. replacement 8" sub
2. replacement 8" sub + replacement front door speakers.
3. replacement 8" sub + replacement front door speakers + sub amp.
4. replacement 8" sub + replacement front door speakers + powered head unit + sub amp
5. one 12" sub in a correctly-sized box (pretty big) + replacement front door speakers + powered head unit + sub amp
6. More subs & amp + replacement front door speakers + head unit + front door speaker amp.

You'll need to run a big fused power cable from the battery or fuse block back to a trunk amp if you are going to use an amp that size.

I have a 17 year old car, and it has a Linear Power 220w amp (bridged to mono for the sub), a Nakamichi 4x50w amp (biamp front speakers), a 25th Anniversary Limited Edition Kenwood eXcelon head unit, a Sony active crossover, MB Quart separates and a JL Audio 10" subwoofer, (and a 'little' 40w Linear Power amp for the back speakers). Your choice of car shouldn't affect your choice in quality audio.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I would do a single DIN stereo with a removable face plate and keep it with you. Much better sound.

 

[Cl-Slick]

So how difficult would be adding an 8" sub to the stock box and running it off the JBL amp?

 

[SuperHO]

it's not difficult, but remember the stock JBL amp wasn't designed to run a modern sub efficiently, so there's a possibility of damaging your sub. the stock location of the SHO head unit places it nicely out of sight for your average thief who's just browsing. i'd just stuff a CD player in there, run one 12 and carry on.

 

[Cl-Slick]

Might just by a decent kenwood HU and run the subs. We'll see what my next pay check is like. Thanks for all of the advice!

 

[Cl-Slick]

My friend is selling me a decent single din HU for $50. I guess it's all pretty easy to wire up as long as I get the JBL amp bypass wiring harness from Crutchfield right?

 

[SuperHO]

it's just that easy.

 

[Cl-Slick]

Should I get those little wire connectors to connect the wiring harnesses to each other or solder them?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I did the wire connectors as you do not ahve a lot of room to work with solder.

 

[Cl-Slick]

Sounds like a plan. I get paid next week so I guess I'll buy the HU and install this all myself!

 

[K-Dawg]

Solder. Always.

Also, a new headunit with modern features (Bluetooth, USB, Ipod control, etc.) is not expensive.

 

[Eric VerValin]

I was thinking of using a DB840 from Polk in place of my sub, and using a 300W amp to push it. It's the perfect size for the stock box, but using the amp I found that I like, I'd need one of those line converters for it.

Polk makes a DB series 5 1/4 component set, and a nice set of 6x9's. I was going to install the speakers, then at a later date add a decent amp for those.


I just figured on doing it this way as I can pull new wire each time I add some speakers. Plus I won't lose the stock look on the inside..

 

[Cl-Slick]

Solder. Always.

Also, a new headunit with modern features (Bluetooth, USB, Ipod control, etc.) is not expensive.

This one is fairly new, not sure what features it has though. One last question (I hope)...How does the new HU stay in place in the dash? I know the stock ones have the little springs that hold them in.

 

[K-Dawg]

There's a metal cage that slides in and accepts the headunit. They are brand and sometimes model specific. I bought one from Kenwood once. It was like $5.

 

[Cl-Slick]

Thanks for all the help guys! I'm going to start running the wires for everything this week! Anyone know a good place to run the cable from the battery to the amp through the firewall?

 

[Cl-Slick]

There's a metal cage that slides in and accepts the headunit. They are brand and sometimes model specific. I bought one from Kenwood once. It was like $5.

I'm pretty sure the HU has the cage so no worries there, thanks for pointing out what it was to me. After doing some further research, I've read that I can find the extra plug behind the din slots that go straight to the speakers and get the regular ford wiring harness instead of having to buy the amp bypass harness (I know exactly what plug this is, we've used it on my brother's 90). Any one care to clear this up?

 

[SuperHO]

there should be a plug back there...can't remember for the life of me what it looks like, though. i'm pretty sure that's what i used, but i honestly can't recall.