Connecting AutoMeter "Phantom" Gauges ( Oil Press, Water Temp, Volts)

[vortex2450]

Hey fellows I've got a nice set of AutoMeter Gauges that have yet to be hooked up. I'm wondering what my best options are here.

For the oil pressure gauge, the car came with oil lines and a t-fitting and an adapter, I have not the faintest clue where to start with this one but I'm completely capable with a little guidance.

For the water temp, can I just splice into the water temp sensor wiring?

And for volts can I simply use one of the key one wires or simply the most direct path to the battery (as In the 12v positive wire for the aftermarket security system)?

Once again I haven't even looked behind the gauges as they are installed but I am completely capable of doing what would need to be done.

 

[rubydist]

most common location of oil pressure tap is on the oil pressure sender on the back of the engine. you can 'T' that to get a second oil 'signal.'

for water temp, you will need to determine what signal the gauge wants to see. iirc, the Ford sender does not provide the correct signal for most aftermarket gauges.

for volts, normally you would use a switched 12V so the gauge is not drawing power while the car is off.

 

[vortex2450]

It's the green angled connector that's pretty easy to spot when under the car correct?

I'll look into the water temp sender, can't I just install an aftermarket one? I'm sure the threads are pretty common right?

Yeah I meant switched, that makes sense..

 

[SHOtime2511]

Water temp: You will have to use the sender included in the package,as stated the Ford sensor is not the right voltage for the autometer gauge. There are a couple ways to mount the sender. The best way I have found is to build a "T" from your local hardware store for the factory and aftermarket sender while using the stock coolant port location.
Volts: Follow the autometer directions,wire to a switched power source.
Oil pressure:Also a couple ways,You can "T" into the factory location much like the coolant sensor.You could also use an oil pressure sandwich block,it fits between the block and your oil filter.There is also a port on the back of the engine block that works well also.
T fitting:

sandwich block:

 

[vortex2450]

Okay, there's some light shed. I don't have the Autometer sender, I'll contact PO, maybe he has it, if not I'll have to find the right one to buy from Autometer. The gauge has three terminal connections for the coolant temp, sound right?

The volts will be a breeze, just the matter of finding the closest 12v switched..

As for the oil line, the car came with an Autometer package with copper tubing, a T-fitting, and two fittings, I'll take pictures.

Can anyone give me a clear place to look for where the stock oil pressure sender taps in to the back of the block? And how should I tackle the task of running the 1/8" tubing to the gauge? Just drill a hole in the firewall and use a grommet?


I ask because I'm sure people here have tons more experience at this than I do and I don't want to do it wrong is not as good as it could be and have something go wrong in the future..

thanks,
Josh

Picture:


Installation seems pretty straightforward.

Install t-ftting into block, install stock sender and gauge feed line into t-fitting, run tubing up to the firewall, drill through there, run up a-pillar into gauge.

My questions reside in,

Where should I run the tubing?

Where's the best place to drill through the firewall (if such a place exists)?

Can I just use the same white gasket tape I use for plumbing household sinks/showers?

 

[vortex2450]

This is what i'm tapping into :



Not here:

 

[StreetlightSHO]

This is what i'm tapping into :

Correct.
Here is what I did:
This is the back of the block. This is the oil line and the sender for the water temp.

And here is where I ran the wire and oil line. Right next to the right rear subframe bushing. If you have the subframe recall kit done you can run the lines up through the rubber plug in the floor pan. I just used rubber vacuum line to run the oil line through so it wouldn't kink if somebody kicked it.

 

[vortex2450]

Nice, I'll only need 1wire for the sender? If so I'll go ahead and run it so all I'll have to do is buy and install the autometer sender. On the coolant temp sender, you just replaced the Ford sender making the dummy gauge on the dash useless correct?

Or is that one somewhere else?

Point being is I want to retain the stock gauge as well as have the Autometer hooked up, so I'll just get a t-fitting if it's necessary.

 

[StreetlightSHO]

Nice, I'll only need 1wire for the sender? If so I'll go ahead and run it so all I'll have to do is buy and install the autometer sender. On the coolant temp sender, you just replaced the Ford sender making the dummy gauge on the dash useless correct?

Or is that one somewhere else?

Point being is I want to retain the stock gauge as well as have the Autometer hooked up, so I'll just get a t-fitting if it's necessary.

There's only one wire for the signal on the water temp. Then you have the positive/negative but you wire that at the dash.

The coolant sender is actually in place of a plug in the side of the block, not in place of the Ford sender. Its a bolt, but I don't remember the thread size. I did have to make a trip to the hardware store for the brass fittings. And to answer your previous question of if you can use that white tape, yes.

I think the temp might read a little high bc of location, but that also might have been bc my thermostat was stuck halfway open....

But yes, my stock gauge still works.

 

[SHOtime2511]

I'd only go with an electric oil pressure gauge in a DD.

 

[vortex2450]

Haha, for fear of smashing the line and having oil spewing all over the dash?

This was the gauge that came with the car when I bought it so I'm going to go with it. I've already bloodied two fingers and smashed a thumb, cant' stop now, lol

 

[StreetlightSHO]

I'd only go with an electric oil pressure gauge in a DD.

Eh. My dad swears by the mechanical oil pressure gauges.... he's owned at least six different muscle cars with 'em and none burst yet.
I just told him I would hold him responsible if it breaks..... haha

 

[vortex2450]

Haha, well I'm pretty confident that as long as I route the brass line out of foot trampled ares I'll be fine.

It looks as if my car doesn't have the subframe recall done, I can't find any vacuum line like the one you used. Where should I drill through ? I noticed that the floor pan seems to have a cavity between it and the bottom of the car. I don't wanna drill a hole from under just to find out I've got another sheet of metal in my way.

I got the oil gauge connected and plumbed behind the dash as well as the water temp wire run along side the tubing. I have to leave for school now but any ideas of where to drill without having to pull up the carpet are welcome.

EDIT: correction, I did push on a large rubber plug on the drivers side floor pan, is this the one you were talking about? I left a flashlight shining through it and couldn't see any light when under the car.

 

[StreetlightSHO]

Haha, well I'm pretty confident that as long as I route the brass line out of foot trampled ares I'll be fine.

It looks as if my car doesn't have the subframe recall done, I can't find any vacuum line like the one you used. Where should I drill through ? I noticed that the floor pan seems to have a cavity between it and the bottom of the car. I don't wanna drill a hole from under just to find out I've got another sheet of metal in my way.

I got the oil gauge connected and plumbed behind the dash as well as the water temp wire run along side the tubing. I have to leave for school now but any ideas of where to drill without having to pull up the carpet are welcome.

EDIT: correction, I did push on a large rubber plug on the drivers side floor pan, is this the one you were talking about? I left a flashlight shining through it and couldn't see any light when under the car.

If you had the subframe recall done there will be a rubber plug under the carpet on each side. Above the subframe bolts. This is where they had to drill for the recall to slip a nut in there. Its not on the flat part of the floorpan though, its on the sloped portion.... I'll see if I can find a picture. Once I popped out that plug I shined a flashlight down and could see it
shining out the hole next to the bushing under the car.

Edit: Found a picture. Post #5 http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=51502&highlight=subframe+recall+floor+pan

 

[vortex2450]

Thanks a ton. Yeah I got those under the carpet, Maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough for the light. Although I've been having a bad day..

Unfortunately while I was plumbing my pressure line the lightning rod snapped against my windshield a left a nasty spider web crack at the lower left corner :\

Then I cut my finger fumbling to reattach the gauge pods and left a mark on the third "pod". And to add to that on my way back I stopped at my friends and with out thinking parked on a downhill driveway facing forward behind his car and when I went to leave as soon as I took the car out of 1st to go in reverse it rolled forward and rubbed his back bumper real good, the e brake was still all the way down, that really sucked, thank god there was no damage to either car... and so obviously it's time to replace that too.

anyways, point is I' not feeling to hot today so I'll tackle finishing the job of plumbing the oil feed line tomorrow.

 

[rubydist]

there are plenty of holes through the firewall already with grommets in them - just find one of them that is in approx. the right location and use that. no need to drill a new hole.

 

[StreetlightSHO]

Thanks a ton. Yeah I got those under the carpet, Maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough for the light. Although I've been having a bad day..

Unfortunately while I was plumbing my pressure line the lightning rod snapped against my windshield a left a nasty spider web crack at the lower left corner :\

Then I cut my finger fumbling to reattach the gauge pods and left a mark on the third "pod". And to add to that on my way back I stopped at my friends and with out thinking parked on a downhill driveway facing forward behind his car and when I went to leave as soon as I took the car out of 1st to go in reverse it rolled forward and rubbed his back bumper real good, the e brake was still all the way down, that really sucked, thank god there was no damage to either car... and so obviously it's time to replace that too.

anyways, point is I' not feeling to hot today so I'll tackle finishing the job of plumbing the oil feed line tomorrow.

Bummer dude. Good luck with everything tomorrow or when you decide to tackle it!

 

[vortex2450]

Got the Oil pressure gauge hooked up and good to go. It reads right around 50 psi at idle and stays pinned at ~15psi when I cut the car off, does that sound about right ?

M only question now is where would I find the best 12v switched wire to tap into for my voltages and power for the water temp gauge?

 

[StreetlightSHO]

Got the Oil pressure gauge hooked up and good to go. It reads right around 50 psi at idle and stays pinned at ~15psi when I cut the car off, does that sound about right ?

M only question now is where would I find the best 12v switched wire to tap into for my voltages and power for the water temp gauge?

Well for the Oil pressure gauge I'm not sure..... I have air in my line so I think mine reads low. My car is at home and I'm at college, so that never got fixed.
I think ~12-15psi is good for idle, but I don't exactly remember.

and for the power wire I tapped into my radio harness. That was easy bc my gauges are right above my radio.

 

[frosho]

I have air in my line so I think mine reads low.

Not true. It doesn't matter if there is air in the line. Pressure is pressure.

It's a good idea to purge the air out, though. A small leak can turn into a big mess with compressed air in the line.