confuseing comparison.

[nc89sho]

ok, i just brought the sho i bought home from VA. and i notised some strange things about the comparison of this car and mine.

first, both are Titanium '89 MTX's
the new one has 126K on the odo,
mine has 133K on the odo.
the clutch on the new one is ALOT easyer to depress and engages about half way up. mine is alot harder to push and engages almost at the top. he said that the clutch had just been replaced and that when he first got it back it did the same thing mine is doing (mine was just replaced 30K ago)he said he took it back to the shop and they adjusted(?) it... what kind of adjustment could they be makeing???? and should i have a shop look at mine? second, his car has no sunroof(mine does) and no keyless entry(mine does). i thought that wasn't an option in the '89 SHO's. anyway, thanks in advance for any info, and sorry for the long post.

 

[jthomas68]

Supposedly,when the clutch gets worn,it will grab higher up.Mine grabs all the way at the top,but it always has.It slips a bit under nitrous,but everyday driving has been perfect this year.Your "new" 89 is one of the lighter ones(no options).They are a bit quicker because of weight,you lucked out.

 

[naval-avi8or]

I'm no longer a MTXer but back in the day i was. There is a compramise on were your pedal to clutch should engage. Closer to the floor but not all the way to the floor. All the way to the floor and you may not getting it fully disegaged. If it is all the way out it may not fully engage and will slip and wear out sooner.

 

[nc89sho]

ok, so basically, i should take the old one in and have the clutch checked just in case, and chalk the power diff. up to a lighter car. is that right? oh, and the power steering on the new car doesn't whine like mine does, and is easyer to stear. any thoughts on that? i was planning on selling the "new" car when i fix it, i can't afford to keep both, is there anything i can take off it to make mine better?

<small>[ May 01, 2002, 07:29 PM: Message edited by: nc89sho ]</small>

 

[DavidT]

My clutch does the same thing. I got my car around 3,000 miles ago. (90 mtx) The clutch feels stiff to push on the pedal, and the pedal is almost all the way OUT before it is in gear. The owner told me it has a NEW clutch.?.
So are you saying the clutch needs to be adjusted? Also when the clutch slips as jthomas describes, what is happening... (how can you tell)?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Also when the clutch slips as jthomas describes, what is happening... (how can you tell)?

You'll notice a rise in the rpm's but the car won't be going any faster or not as fast as it should be.

There is a tensioner on the MTX's that I'm not sure if you guys know about. Just grab the clutch pedal and pull it up. If you hear a click that means you took some slack out of the cable. Try that, maybe it will save you some money.

 

[SHOMEUP]

To be more specific mickey- u need to hold the clutch and theres a blue **** behind the clutch pedal u need to push that up until you hear a click...thats how u adjust it- it helped me so much i couldnt even go into gear and than i did that and it was so easy..mostly for gears not how hard the clutch is to push...hope that helps..

 

[nc89sho]

i know about the tensioning trick, but that doesn't help in my case. i don't think the clutch is slipping, but sometimes it does make a little rattle under very hard excelleration. i just wish the thing was easyer to push down. shouldn't it be?

 

[SHOMEUP]

I would have to say throwout bearing... rattling is caused by bad bearing- its a guess

 

[nc89sho]

i was affraid someone would say that. how much should it cost to have that replaced and how hard would it be to do myself.

 

[SHOMEUP]

Well im not sure i was gonna attempt doing it myself to but i heard alot of things can go wrong and with my luck it would happen- baically its 219 for the stock clutch kit- throw out bearing..pressure plate and the clutch and few other things- shonut has it so thats not bad but i would recommend getting the grizzly release throwout bearing its alot better- also i called performance plus to do my clutch and they quoted me 970 bux for everything labor and clutch and new rear main seal...so thats a ball park figure so if u want to save 600 bux than go for it but for me i rather pay the 600 and get it done right the first time... goodluck

 

[jthomas68]

The clutch usually slips more starting in 3rd gear.When driving in 3rd,floor it while watching the tach.If it jumps,hold steady,then starts rising smoothly,it`s slipping.You`ll see what i mean.My last one wouldn`t chirp 2nd gear for a few months,so i knew it was going.The clutch adjustment won`t help a high pedal feel.It tightens the cable,which will make it grab even farther out.The ideal pedal set up is the farthest out possible(grabbing with very little pedal).It enables you to get quicker shifts because you don`t have to push the pedal as far(racing only,obviously).

<small>[ May 01, 2002, 09:31 PM: Message edited by: jthomas68 ]</small>