Coilovers...

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Toolman

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Mikeys_Taurus:
750/ 450 unless something else is requested
Those seem like VERY stiff rates Mike. I am running 600/350, and this is absolutely the stiffest I would want to go. I will be getting softer springs soon, as I think the ride will improve and the Koni's will be better able to damp those rates. I still get some pogo every once in a while.
 

gmorrell

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Toolman:
Mikeys_Taurus:
750/ 450 unless something else is requested
Those seem like VERY stiff rates Mike. I am running 600/350, and this is absolutely the stiffest I would want to go. I will be getting softer springs soon, as I think the ride will improve and the Koni's will be better able to damp those rates. I still get some pogo every once in a while.
Keep in mind that unless the coilover design allows the use of very long springs; for example 10" in front and 12" in the rear, the available spring travel is going to be less then the total suspension travel. IOW, the springs are going to coil bind (become solid objects) before the suspension reaches its normal full bump (compression) travel, and/or they're going to separate from the spring perches when the suspension goes to full droop. Both situations are undesirable.

If you want to lower a SHO by 2.75" and still run long springs to maintain suspension travel, ideally, you would accomplish this by simply turning the lower spring perches to a lower point on their threaded collars, right? Unfortunately, you can't run the perches very far down the strut tube, because they eventually run into the tire.

So, since the strut/tire geometry won't let us do what we really want to, we have to run shorter springs to get the degree of lowering we desire. Running short springs requires that we run very high spring rates to minimize the possibility that a severe bump will put a spring into coil bind. When a spring is in coil bind, it has compressed as far as it can go; it becomes a solid piece of metal. Coil bind typically breaks suspension components and/or fractures strut tower sheet metal, it is to be avoided at all costs.

Getting a front and rear Koni insert to a shock dyno has been on my to-do list for several years now. Conversations I had with Koni development people a few years back indicated that the SHO inserts were usable up to ~600 pounds/inch. Beyond that they couldn't say whether there would be sufficient rebound damping to control a higher rate spring. Comments from individuals on this board running high rate springs seem to support this.

<small>[ February 22, 2004, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: Gary M. ]</small>
 

BlownByU

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Suspension isn't my strongest area so here it goes...

I'm guessing that the lower you set them, the more the spring rate, the harsher the ride, correct??

I was planning on going with the intrax/koni setup but I like the idea of adjustable suspension. My car is a daily driver (for the most part) in the summer. At about intrax height - a little, what kind of ride can I expect?

How hard would installation be?

Thanks pcorn
 

Mike Kopstain

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BlownByU:
Suspension isn't my strongest area so here it goes...

I'm guessing that the lower you set them, the more the spring rate, the harsher the ride, correct??

I was planning on going with the intrax/koni setup but I like the idea of adjustable suspension. My car is a daily driver (for the most part) in the summer. At about intrax height - a little, what kind of ride can I expect?

How hard would installation be?

Thanks pcorn
Almost, but not quite. The spring rate will stay the same, as the adjustment moves the bottom spring perch up and down the strut housing. What will change is suspension travel, and the lower that goes, the stiffer and choppier the car gets.

I wouldn't recomend it as an aesthetic mod.
 

PAracer

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BlownByU:
How hard would installation be?
I couldn't see this being any harder to install than a notmal spring/strut combo. It would be assembled on a workbnench and then installed as a unit.
What I am not certain about is whether a spring compressor will be required for assembly.
 

AutoSHO

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PAracer:
I couldn't see this being any harder to install than a notmal spring/strut combo. It would be assembled on a workbnench and then installed as a unit.
What I am not certain about is whether a spring compressor will be required for assembly.
A spring compressor should only be required for disassembly. Assembly should be as simple as running the perch down on the threaded body.
 

Aspect

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I would assume that the coil over suspension would give the same life expectancy of a normal strut assembly?

I know that it will be a harder ride than my current 91K OEM Setup. I want a setup for Spirited Driving and occasional track (two tracks close to my house (Drag {1 Hour away} - Road Course {15 Minutes away}). I know that I need to replace my struts/springs. Its a given. But for everyday driving plus light track duty, would the $200 difference be worth it? As I have never been in a car with coil overs. The idea sounds great, but is it worth the $200 extra and is there wear considerations that I am not aware of?

Signed,
Lacking of Suspension Knowlege.
 

Mike Kopstain

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As long as you're not installing this on a set of KYB's or stock struts, you'll be fine. The stiffer Tokicos are perfect and the Koni's are even better, though arguably, not worth the extra money in your case.
 

SHOfun 93

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Yep after owning the 700/400 IPT coilivers, I highly recommend a softer setup on these coilovers as my 93 rode like a wagon after installation. Hugs the road like a fat grandma on your birthday, but will rattle your teeth out on anything other than a perfectly smooth road.

Applause to Mike K. again for all his hard work to start up the sho aftermarket!

Shoshop who??? IPT what????? naughty
 

Shoaz

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AutoSHO:
PAracer:
I couldn't see this being any harder to install than a notmal spring/strut combo. It would be assembled on a workbnench and then installed as a unit.
What I am not certain about is whether a spring compressor will be required for assembly.
A spring compressor should only be required for disassembly. Assembly should be as simple as running the perch down on the threaded body.
I think the only thing you'll need a spring compressor for is disassembling the stock struts. In full droop most coilover kits can use helper springs to keep the main spring from banging around loose. I've got helper springs on the front and rear of my car, no spring compressor needed.
 

Shoaz

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Mike,

A couple more questions:

Do you have helper springs available for these as well?
Do you have bump stops available?

For the guys that really want to lower things, bump stops will be crucial. The front of my car is lowered about 1 1/2", which only leaves about 1" of travel in the front suspension. If I didn't have bump stops I think I'd have some broken pieces by now.

FWIW, I've got coilovers on my car with 500/350 springs front/rear. That's a very good compromise between track handling and streetability, and I wouldn't recommend going any stiffer on the street. Even at these rates you can expect to start creating new squeaks and rattles as the car is going to be banged around a lot more than it ever was on a stock or even Eibach/Intrax suspension.

It does rock at the track, though. We had an event at PIR Sunday, the first time I've been back there with this suspension, and it was truly nice to drive a SHO that handles this well on the track.
 

Off Road SHO

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And having been the passenger for 40 minutes of very spirited driving with Eric on Sunday, let me say this about that: His car corners flat, period. I was amazed at how fast he could take the corners in that car.

In fact, a lot of the other drivers were amazed too and then later I think they were just ******.

hail

Tom
 

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