New Reproduction Spark Plug Wire Clips for 3.0L/3.2L SHO V6

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jonheese

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After being inspired by @Deathacus in their post in the WTB section, I have designed some reproduction 3D-printed spark plug wire clips for the Gen1/2 SHO V6 engine. These are the little plastic clips that screw to the valve covers and keep the spark plug wires routed nicely. If yours are anything like mine, the 28+ year old plastic is cracking and the metal reinforcement plates under most of them have delaminated, causing them to dangle in the breeze, if they are present at all.

These are not critical parts by any means, but new ones would look pretty nice in a restored/cleaned up engine bay. I don't believe they've ever been reproduced since Ford discontinued the part, so all of the parts out there today are decades old.

I've spent a few hours (beyond what I posted in the WTB thread) designing and prototyping these replacements for my own use, and I think I'm close to a "beta" release for others as well, so I wanted to see if there was enough interest from folks to make it worth the effort.

Sho v6 clips1
Sho v6 clips2
Sho v6 clips3

If you have a 3D printer, I could sell you the STL files for you to print them yourself, or I could print a set and sell it to you.

If I print these, I would print them out of ABS plastic, which should have sufficient properties to survive underhood stresses and temperatures as well as (if not better than) the original parts. I currently have ABS filament in gray, black, and white, so those would be the available colors to start with. I might offer additional colors for a small fee if there is interest.

I have also sourced the proper Phillips and Torx (your choice) 304 stainless steel screws and some 304 stainless steel bushings (which are inserted into the mounting hole in the plastic clip to provide a positive stop when tightening) which I can include as well, for a small up-charge.

I think that there are five distinct types of clip, as labeled in the first pic above:
Triple clip (C)On driver's side of front valve cover
"" ""On driver's side of rear valve cover
"" ""Underneath rear of intake near throttle body
Double clip, rear (A)On middle of rear valve cover
Double clip, front (B)On middle of front valve cover
Single clip, front (D)On passenger's side of front valve cover
Single clip, rear (E)On passenger's side of rear valve cover

A full set would be seven (7) clips: 1xA, 1xB, 3xC, 1xD, 1xE.

I've tried to see if I could find any historical pricing for these parts from Ford to use as a basis for my pricing, but considering that it's likely been discontinued for over 20 years (if they were ever readily available at all), I didn't find anything.

Keep in mind that these would be very low-volume, essentially custom-printed for each order, but I'm thinking about pricing in the following ballpark (may shift slightly depending on feedback):

$30-40Full set of seven (7) clips
$35-45Full set of seven (7) clips plus stainless steel hardware
$10-153D printer files (STL) only
$20-303D printer files (STL) plus stainless steel hardware
$10-15Stainless steel hardware only
NOTE: All prices include shipping via USPS in a padded envelope to US addresses.

I have printed a set for my car and will take some photos of them to add to the thread if there is interest. I plan on testing them out myself for a while before offering them for sale, so I just want to set expectations that it may be a while before I move into "production" mode, if that happens at all.

So is there any interest out there for these? How reasonable are my pricing estimates? Any other suggestions for the project are 100% welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for reading.
 
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zoomlater

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I would be interested in a full set with hardware. Thanks for putting the effort in to create these. Prices are okay for me
 

Irish Pride

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The triple loom on the back valve cover is different than all the others. It sits on and mounts to a raised cube molded into the cover. I don't think your design will work in that one location or did you not factor in that one loom?

I'd be in for two sets, black and white, but I want to see how it works out on that back cover first.

-Chad

20231130 152050
 

jonheese

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The triple loom on the back valve cover is different than all the others. It sits on and mounts to a raised cube molded into the cover. I don't think your design will work in that one location or did you not factor in that one loom?
Oh, nice, I think that part on my engine was missing when I got it, so I had no idea until just now that it was different. If anyone can measure that part and send me some rough drawings (or send me a spare part, if possible), I can add that to the set.
 
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Irish Pride

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Oh, nice, I think that part on my engine was missing when I got it, so I had no idea until just now that it was different. If anyone can measure that part and send me some rough drawings (or send me a spart part, if possible), I can add that to the set.
I'll check and see if I have one to spare.

-Chad
 

jonheese

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Well, I decided to take a crack at it from the picture and came up with this:

1701452964278
1701452985183


I measured the mounting boss on my VC at 15x15x14 mm, so I based the mounting recess on this, making it only 12mm deep so there would be some clearance underneath when the screw is tightened. The entire part is about 55mm (~2-1/8") long, 20mm (~3/4") wide and 17mm (~11/16") tall.

It looked to me like the original part has a slight taper in thickness along the "foot" feature, so I tried to estimate that here. It's 5mm (~3/16") thick at the "toe" and 7mm (~1/4") thick where it meats the mounting block area. It also tapers in width (i.e. looking at it from the top) from 20mm (~3/4") wide at the block to 15mm (~5/8") wide at the toe.

How does this look?
 

Majestic

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That's pretty sweet. What are your size limitations for making parts? There are a couple of SVO specific parts that I'm sure you could sell. The third brake light bezel for one.
 

jonheese

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My 3D printer is nothing special -- the max print volume is 300x300x400 mm (~12"x12"x16") but there are definitely folks with bigger 3D printers out there if needed. I think that getting the parts modeled in CAD (I use the free personal version of Fusion 360) is the bigger hurdle, and something that can only be done with the part in hand (or detailed dimensions/drawings of the part). Once we have an STL file with a model, getting it printed by someone should be trivial.
 
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Deathacus

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Well, I was in no hurry but figures, one of the wires decided to rip itself apart as i was pulling spark plugs. If I gotta get new wires, I might as well do it all at once.
Still, she'll be parked for the winter and I'd rather wait till these are past prototyping.
But yeah, tots interested in full set with phillips hardware.
 

jsho

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I would be interested in the file for sure. And possible a set if I have problems sticking to the bed. (I'm new to the 3D printer world). I really appreciate the time you put into this!
 

jonheese

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From the response I've gotten here so far, I am going to proceed with the development of these clips/looms/whatever you want to call them.

Re: Printing yourself, keep in mind that these really should be printed in ABS to withstand underhood temps, and printing ABS has a few challenges over PLA, so keep that in mind.

Also, I did have one prototype part (all of which have so far been printed at 20% infill density) snap at a weak point while I was installing it, so I will also probably recommend printing at a higher infill density. For maximum strength, I am considering printing at 100% infill out of an abundance of caution to make sure that these parts aren't breaking on day 1.

Thanks to everyone for the responses, I will create a new post in the appropriate forum (and probably post a note here as well) when the parts are ready for primetime.
 

SHOrod

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My 3D printer is nothing special -- the max print volume is 300x300x400 mm (~12"x12"x16")
CR-10S?

Nice modeling!

Also consider the print orientation when printing. If you're finding they tend to break where the wires snap in, I'd rotate 90 degrees so those are printed in the horizontal orientation. That might require more filament (for supports) but will result in those thin areas being stronger. And with the bushings you mentioned, that should mean you don't need as much strength around the screws/mounting locations.

You could also consider acetone fuming to give them more of a molded look and to help fuse the layer lines for additional strength too. But you may want to consider a slightly higher price for that service. Not that the hardware is expensive (for these a small metal stand, a pickle jar, can of acetone, and paper towels would work nicely and be pretty inexpensive (unless you're allergic to pickles)) but there's time involved and possible reprints if you leave it in the fumes too long.

I've also use Sci-Grip Weld-on #3 and #4 (depending on how quickly you want it to cure) to attach printed pieces together in instances where I needed strength in multiple axes, or to fix pieces I didn't want to reprint, as well as to fix many other plastic items in the house or in cars. It works MUCH better than standard CA.

-Rod
 
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