Codes 538, 16 psi, 33 psi Changed all this..

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I did a fuel pressure test and got the following results;

Key On Engine Off 16psi

Key On Engine On 33psi

After turning engine off, but before depressurizing it went to 31psi

Did ran codes got stored codes 332, 157 KOEO, then it wouldn't stay running for KOER test, but

after it stall got the following codes 411, 538, 332.

Then I cleared codes did Idle Reset Procedure ran up the road and back down ( about 2 miles) and

got this KOEO 111, 111, 111, 111, KOER (stalled) 332, 411, 521, 536, 538, 632.

I've already changed Egr sensor, O2 both, Tbs, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Clean MAF.

What part of the EGR is 332?
Does the pressure for fuel mean what? Pump, regulator etc.

I've included this link the pictures of what the fuel looked like coming out of the old fuel filter and of the readings on the fuel pressure test gauge.

http://atlantic.photoisland.com/photosharing/albumindex.html ps ([email protected] / brianna) Click on Fuel Filter and Fuel Pressure links.

Update next day;

I’ve replaced EGR Valve, took for a ride no CEL. But still stalled and still got code 332. Plus 411 and 538. Won’t stay running to do KOER test.

What to do now this is driving me nuts. It my only car and I work to far away to taxi, walk etc.


Thanks for your help,

Mike:bonk: :confused: :madflame: :rant: :huh:
 

projectSHO89

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For the KOEO fuel pressure test, you must ground the FP test pin of the Self-Test connector so that the pump runs continuously. You should get around 38-42 psi under these circcumstances.

Your reading of around 30-32 psi is okay during KOER.

For the 332, do a SEARCH on that code and my user name. I covered its diagnosis a while back, probably a year or two. You will find it in this post: 332 Troubleshooting

The stalling during the KOER test is very likely due to overapplication of EGR gasses and, for some reason, the DPFE sensor is either not picking up the EGR flow or the signal is not being processed by the computer. You can test this theory by disconnecting the EGR vacuum line and re0running the KOER test. If it does not stall (you will still get a 332 code), then you know the EGR valve is good (they seldom fail) and that the EGR passages in the intake are probably clear.

When presented with multiple codes, always focus on the first code presented. Once it is resolved, reset the computer and test again to see what may be next to be addressed.

Steve
 

Best Sho

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332 and EGR Valve

projectSHO89 hi,

I grounded the FP connector and I heard the fuel pump working. The needle shot right up 40psi fast. So with 33psi on KOER and the 40psi KOEO does this mean my fuel pump and fuel system is working fine?

The only time it stalls (that is when it gonna, 50 to 80 % of the time) is when my foot not on the gas. Which makes me think it a fuel problem. From my mom to my home it stalls any where from 3 to 15 times, that about 2 miles.

I put a tube on the valve and it did not drop rpm's. So since I just replaced the EGR valve with a brand new and 128k on the car. I have to quess that it the passages that are not clear. Would you not agree? Not guarantee....

So if the above is true, if you could explain. Why it would seem to make me feel it gas related. Foot on gas pedal no stall, foot not on gas pedal stall (most of the time).

And in this pic you can see the fuel that came out of the old fuel filter

2004895014686125820521.jpg



and in this fuel pressure test the fuel release line of the test the fuel is clear.

2004894308763949657305.jpg


Why oh why. The fuel filter as old and dirty as it was. Was still working then what about the 'sock' on the fuel pump?

In the next couple of day's I plan on clearing the egr 'nostrils' and passage.
I waiting for the throttle body gasket to come in. And the plug on the back of the intake 10mm hex too big, 8mm hex too small.....9mm?

I really appreciate all your help and hope that I'm not bugging you down with this. I'm hoping the clearing of the passages will stop the stalling. I'm going nuts with this.

In case the 2 pics don't sho, there at photoisland.com username [email protected] password brianna.

PS,
I've looked and looked can't find the Helms manual for my 93. I've seen other years 90, 91, 94. Local library doesn't have it either. Do you by chance have or know one. I'm doing a tune-up in another month and haven't pulled intake before and need pics. Maybe could copy given pages on matter and email me them??

Thanks Mike :bonk: :confused: :madflame: :rant: :huh:

If this doesn't stop the stalling what do you recommend?
 

projectSHO89

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The stalling is probably the IAC.

Replace it.

Somebody around here advertises manuals on CD in their signature. Don't recall who but you should be able to find it if he/she doesn't pipe up.

Steve
 

HopefulSHO

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Fuel pumps can still give okay pressure until they just up and die. Sometimes you can start your car and drive for a week and sometimes it will die just down the street...kinda depends.

If your car *always* dies with your foot off the gas, I suspect your IAC valve too. If it dies with your foot on the gas I'd suspect something else.
 

Ferendon

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IAC valve can be cleaned, but it's a beeotch with the intake on the engine. The bottom bolt is a pain in the ***. I have 2 sets of the gaskets, which I don't believe can be bought individually. If you need them, PM me your address and I'll send you a pair. They're small and light, and will fit right inside a regular envelope.
 

projectSHO89

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Every IAC valve I've ever cleaned has required replacement anyway.

Maybe I'm just unlucky, but that's why I suggested replacing it.

You can make future IAC valve services easier by notching out the bottom bolt hole so that it slips over the lower bolt. That will minimize the fumbling with your 5 mm long arm Allen.

Steve
 
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