Clutch Time 3

[rangerj]

Scott,

The dowell pins provide for a very precise alignment. It is not uncommon to have to "draw" the trans up to the block because of the tight fit of the dowells.

Given your lack of corrosion "down there" your dowell pins should be very snug, and not allowing for any lateral movement. The alignment should be precise. Did you have any problems with the trans to engine block bolts threading because of alignment, that is were any of the bolt holes slightly out of alignment?

Is the odd sound you are getting like a ratcheting sound? Because it happens when you're on a roll, is it possible the blocking rings need to be "worn in"? I'm just thinking out loud!

I do like you engine suspension rig. Is there any chance you will post the details of their construction, parts list, measured drawings, you know like Norm Abrahms on the New Yankee Workshop?
(Tongue in cheek)

This is a real puzzler. I wish I could hear it from here! Clutch cable adjustment? Shift rod or cable adjustment? Sorry I cannot be of any help. But like the bad guy says in Dirty Harry, "I gots to know"!

I will be doing the clutch job before the end of the summer. Thank goodness my car spent half its life in Texas. The time I spent from the middle of May, until the middle of September, last year removing, cleaning, and painting parts and fasteners will pay off when I go to do the clutch. rangerj thumbs_u

 

[Duff]

Scott--
I've got a noise very similar to what you're describing that I still haven't figured out. It started on my car when the clutch was last replaced, but I didn't have any transmission work done. I've driven about 4,000 mi since then, and it still hasn't gone away.

Maybe this will help narrow down your search.

Dave

 

[sdpatt]

Josh Teixeira from SHO NUT responded that the noise should go away soon. After 100 miles, it has already lessened.

All of the transaxle to engine bolting went into the holes smoothly and cleanly. There is no corrosion to have to deal with here, but I did add a dab of anti-seize onto each of these bolts.

The noise is not a transaxle gear grinding noise and the noise can be made by moving the clutch even with the transmission in gear. The blocking rings would have no effect at that time.

<small>[ March 08, 2003, 09:23 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[notstock]

sdpatt:
It's not the throwout bearing that is wearing out, it is the pressure plate fingers.

On the other hand, the pressure plate bolts came out with very little effort. Aren't these supposed to be Loctited? The throwout bearing quill was also not attached - it was sliding with the bearing. It may have been glued down at one time, but it sure isn't now.

Scott,

My fingers were trashed too - plenty of life left on my clutch also. Conversely, I couldn't get my original quill off, so I left it. Luckily, I didn't tear it up much at all trying to remove it.

Regarding the pressure plate, yes, it should be lock-tite'd. I used blue loc-tite on the PP and the flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the standard star pattern. However, contrary to your experience, on the rest of the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine I used anti-seize.

Kurt
www.kurtmetros.com

 

[sdpatt]

I used the blue, medium strength Loctite on the pressure plate bolts, the clutch fork bolt and the quill sleeve, but not the flywheel bolts. I used anti-seize on the engine to transaxle bolts, transaxle bracket bolts and transaxle mount bolts, but not the 15 small and 2 large transaxle casing bolts.

The operation and feel of the new clutch and transaxle blocking rings is as good or better than expected. The clutch throw is smooth and light, without vibration during the throw. The shifting action is cleaner and sharper. Probably due as much to the fresh blocking rings as the fully releasing clutch disc.

After looking inside the clutch bell housing, I saw the results of the several loud "pops" that I heard while pressing the clutch through its range. There were two, completely broken pressure plate finger tips and one severly bent tip. I can see the evidence of the fingers wearing into the throwout bearing's race and ball bearing area and recall the rough and coarse feel in the clutch pedal as it was happening.

Root Cause? (revised) I believe that the root cause of the failure of my clutch was the slipping of the non-turning throwout bearing against the constantly spinning pressure plate fingers. I have found that the throwout bearing is designed to be in constant contact with the pressure plate fingers. The throwout bearing was touching the fingers, but not with enough force to cause the bearing to rotate with the pressure plate. It did create enough contact to wear the tips of the fingers to thin nubs after 81,000 miles. The way to prevent this rubbing contact between the TOB and the PP fingers is to ensure that the clutch cable is properly tensioned. The Ford owner's manual recommends pulling up on the clutch pedal every 10,000 miles (I believe). It wouldn't hurt to check the cable tension more often.

Lesson learned? Ensure the clutch cable is properly tensioned by pulling up on the pedal with about 10 pounds of force approximately every oil change (3,000 miles).

Result? I hope a clutch system that last longer than 81,000 miles.

<small>[ May 17, 2003, 05:39 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>