Clutch Job

[SHOman247]

how hard is it to do for the first time....i'm fairly knowledgeable and have the tools and patientance...so how how hard are they 2 do myself or should i let a shop do it?....if i do it myself what else should i change or replace when i have the tranny down....and also should i just go for a stock replacement or go with an aftermarket one like a high rev jr.....this will be my daily driver so i don't want the car to be to hard to drive...imput would be appresiated

 

[Whiner]

I know people hate when this is said, but do a search. There is a ton of useful info in this forum! thumb

 

[SHOman247]

i did and i got nothing useful headbang

 

[qiksho]

Hardest part is getting the exhaust studs out without snapping them. Use lots of heat and squirrel ****.

Other than that the only hard part is getting the driver cv shaft out...I haven't bought the fancy tool yet to take them out.

If you have a 92+ SHO don't put motocraft type f fluid in...it will shift like shit.

Other than that have fun. wink

 

[Blue-By-U]

Click on the SHO Nut Performance link in my sig. Order the Clutch Replacement Video from Josh, it will answer ALL the questions you just asked and make the job that much easier. Good luck thumb

 

[SHOman247]

thanks guys for you replies....should i use gm synromesh in the tranny?... work at dealerships so i can get it dirt cheap

 

[sdpatt]

What did you search for? Try these topics I posted with drawings for an engine support and links for pictures. Need a procedure?

Clutch Time
Clutch Time 2
Clutch Time 3

 

[SHOman247]

i just typed in clutch job....and got all kinds of posts....maybe i should have refined it and thaks sd for those links

 

[SHOman247]

man those links helped so much...but do i have to remove the tranny internas to do the job or was that just extra stuff you did??...did you install new internals of just removed the old ones cleaned then and reintalled them?

 

[91 SHOplus]

For a "while you're in there" project, consider replacing the rear main seal.

 

[sdpatt]

SHOman247:
man those links helped so much...but do i have to remove the tranny internas to do the job or was that just extra stuff you did??...did you install new internals of just removed the old ones cleaned then and reintalled them?

No, the transaxle internals were serviced because I wanted to refurbish the bocking rings and seals. The gears and bearings were still in gret shape after 271,000 miles. That was a transaxle job and related to the clutch service only in the removals necessary to get to the components.

 

[SHOman247]

how hard was it to do that?.....i don't want to take it apart and be like umm where did this go headbang

 

[sdpatt]

It was much more detail oriented than the clutch service and I wouldn't have attempted doing it without watching the SHO NUT MTX (Quaife) video and posessing a detailed procedure and exploded parts view in my older Chilton's manual. Unless you have worn blocking rings that cause grinding shifts or have leaking input shaft, axle or gear shift seals, don't open the case. There is little to gain and much to lose by opening the case just to see all those parts.

 

[haydenm315]

SHOman247:
how hard was it to do that?.....i don't want to take it apart and be like umm where did this go headbang

Use zip lock bags to hold the nuts and bolts for the different parts. Make sure to label the bags. This method simplifies things a lot. I made it through rod bearing replacement with no problems. There were a lot of nuts and bolts involved. 6 ypipe, 4 starter, 12 oil pan, 12 rod cap nuts, 8 baffle, 8 crank brace, and 2 oil pickup. Using the labeled zip lock bags forces you to stay organized and eliminates the terrible problem of misplacing parts, or using the wrong nuts/bolts. If all of the nuts/bolts aren't the same for a given part, draw yourself a diagram and number the bolts with their corresponding number. If you're disconnecting a lot of vacuum lines, it's not difficult to get confused if you're not familiar with the car. Wrap each vacuum line and corresponding fitting with duct tape. Label them with numbers using a sharpie permanent marker. Don't let your tools sit on the car. When you're done with a tool, immediately put it away. By following these techniques you should be able to simplify reassembly. I'm by no means a professional mechanic. I use these tricks to eliminate extra parts, and cut down on possible problems. So far I've done everything in my sig by myself or with a friend. My car has yet to need towing to a sho specialist shop. A guy who works there said a lot of them come in on the tow truck due to botched procedures. Staying organized is extremely important. You will suffer much less frustration by following these methods. Using the search feature of the forum is also a good way to find information. When I begin a serious procedure I almost always start a thread regarding my progress and problems I run into. The forum has yet to let me down when I've needed technical advice. There are some bright bulbs that frequent this place. Use them to your advantage and be sure to express your gratitude.

I plan on doing a clutch job in my garage when it's necessary and I have the cash to afford a quaife and some parts to refresh my tranny. Do yourself a favor and buy the video from shonut like mentioned by another member. I've only heard good things about that video. Sdpatt has a decent mechanical drawing to show you how to build an inexpensive engine support with a trip to home depot and some woodworking skills.

Good luck with your clutch job.

<small>[ October 11, 2003, 02:43 AM: Message edited by: haydenm315 ]</small>