AutoSHO
No SHO = Mo $$$
Well, I just wanted to report back on my progress replacing the clutch. I am doing it myself in my garage, on Jackstands. The engine support I built is similar to Scott's. I used a slightly different design but for most intents and purposes its the same.
The first thing I noticed is how nice & corrosion free my Colorado car is. I had no trouble removing any of the suspension pieces, none of the bolts had corrosion, and my non-recall SFB bolts came out just fine. It was a very uneventful job. The transmission came right out, no trouble at all. Get Josh's Video, it helps a LOT. Makes the job go really easy. I don't have any air tools, but none of this stuff you really need it for.
I also found my ~20k old clutch to have horrible finger wear around the TOB. It also appears the disc was contaminated when they installed it (probably got oil on it) because there is a really weird pattern on both the Flywheel and Pressure plate. Looks like a bunch of little bubbles or something. I also noticed that one side of the pressure plate has just slightly more wear on it than the other half. After removing the flywheel I believe they may not have cleaned the ****** well enough and it had some contamination between it, which caused the whole assembly to be not quite true, explaining the uneven wear and the TOB augering in to the PP fingers.
If anyone has any questions on the clutch job, feel free. If you are considering doing it yourself, make sure you have a good assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 drive Metric standard and Deep-well sockets. And a big breakover bar and cheater for a few of the assorted fasteners
All in all, a really easy job to do. Including building the engine support and removing the transaxle, I think I have done about 8 hours of work so far. I think it will take 4 more to reinstall everything, barring any big challenges.
The first thing I noticed is how nice & corrosion free my Colorado car is. I had no trouble removing any of the suspension pieces, none of the bolts had corrosion, and my non-recall SFB bolts came out just fine. It was a very uneventful job. The transmission came right out, no trouble at all. Get Josh's Video, it helps a LOT. Makes the job go really easy. I don't have any air tools, but none of this stuff you really need it for.
I also found my ~20k old clutch to have horrible finger wear around the TOB. It also appears the disc was contaminated when they installed it (probably got oil on it) because there is a really weird pattern on both the Flywheel and Pressure plate. Looks like a bunch of little bubbles or something. I also noticed that one side of the pressure plate has just slightly more wear on it than the other half. After removing the flywheel I believe they may not have cleaned the ****** well enough and it had some contamination between it, which caused the whole assembly to be not quite true, explaining the uneven wear and the TOB augering in to the PP fingers.
If anyone has any questions on the clutch job, feel free. If you are considering doing it yourself, make sure you have a good assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 drive Metric standard and Deep-well sockets. And a big breakover bar and cheater for a few of the assorted fasteners
All in all, a really easy job to do. Including building the engine support and removing the transaxle, I think I have done about 8 hours of work so far. I think it will take 4 more to reinstall everything, barring any big challenges.
