Gentlemen,
1.) Beginning in 1994 (maybe 93) the front wheel bearing and hub is a unit, and is bolted on. Simple nuts and bolts for replacement. The unit is expensive, but much easier to change bearings than the earlier SHOs.
2. Pekin212 - The outer CV joint can be removed without pulling the axel. If your boot has not been ripped for a long time, you may be able to replace the grease and the boot. Is there any grease left in the joint? Has it started making noise? If you have doubts about the joint, get a fresh joint from raxels.
With the car on the ground, remove the axel nut. It is a "lock" nut and will be replaced, NOT REUSED. Jack the car up and put it on jack stands. Remove the wheel, brake caliper, and disk. Remove the ("pinch-pin") nut and bolt that "pinch" the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
Remove the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle. Plan on replacing the nut on the pinch bolt, the tie-rod end, and the cotter pin as a safety proceedure (cheap insurance).
You can use a pry bar to force the lower control arm down, so that the ball joint stud clears the steering knuckle, or use a small "bottle jack" to push against the inner fender well lip and push down the lower control arm (protect with piece of wood).
Once the strut and lower control arm are free of the ball joint, and tie rod end, push in on the axel. You can pull out on the strut at the same time. You do NOT want to pull the axel out of the trans. It helps to have an extra pair of hands hold in on the axel. The inner joint is spring loaded, and can be pushed in a few inches.
Once you have the strut and steering knuckle clear of the axel, you can remove the torn boot and the straps that hold the boot on.
Now, have that extra pair of hands hold the axel straight, and in the trans, while you hit the outer CV joint with a hammer. Use a piece of wood to protect the joint. The object is to drive the joint off of the axel.
There is a "circlip' that the CV joint has to "pop" over. It will take a good sharp, straight, rap of the hammer to make this happen.
If you are going to re-use the CV joint, clean it with a cleaner that will not leave a residue, such as Gum-Out. Blow it dry with compressed air, or let dry by evaporation. Once it is dry, pack the joint with 25% to 33% of the grease that comes with the boot.
Put the small end of the boot on the axel and apply the boot clamp. There is a "tool" you will need to "crimp" the clamp to tighten it. Now fill the boot with the remaining grease.
If a new "circlip" is supplied with the boot (usually the case), put it on the axel now. Pop on the CV joint. You may need to "tap" it on with the aforementioned hammer!
Apply the large boot clamp and crimp it tight with the "tool".
Reassemble the rest in the reverse order of disassembly, and your done. Use your shop manual for the torque references. The axel nut and the nut on the pinch bolt are recommended to be replaced.
If you do not have a torque wrench that goes high enough in torque for the axel nut, I think Auto Zone will lend you one. If not, stop at a local garage and have the mechanic do it for a small fee. I just did this on a 92 Sable a few week ago. It can be done. rangerj
