Well, my SHO has developed a charging problem. The battery keeps being drained, 2/26 i'll go see it and use a muti meter and see if the alt craped out on me. If it hasn't, i'm lost. So any help would be great guys. 
Charging problem
- Thread starter ManicMike
- Start date
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sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
With the engine idling, you should measure at least 13.5V at the batteries terminals. Less, and the alternator is not generating the required voltage or current to charge the battery.
Check out AutoZone and O'Reilly for a starting place for remanufactured alternators. You should be able to find one with a lifetime warranty for a reasonable price. The removal/replacement is not a tough job. Check out the repair guide section of the AutoZone site for the procedure.
Check out AutoZone and O'Reilly for a starting place for remanufactured alternators. You should be able to find one with a lifetime warranty for a reasonable price. The removal/replacement is not a tough job. Check out the repair guide section of the AutoZone site for the procedure.
VICTORY_LAP FDA-03 $39.99
65, 75, 80 AMP ALTERNATOR (WITH INTERNAL REGULATOR) EXCEPT 3G ALTERNATOR.
Thats pretty cheap...lol, so the install/removal isn't hard? Like time wise, how long you think it would take, from first bolt to finishing connections?
65, 75, 80 AMP ALTERNATOR (WITH INTERNAL REGULATOR) EXCEPT 3G ALTERNATOR.
Thats pretty cheap...lol, so the install/removal isn't hard? Like time wise, how long you think it would take, from first bolt to finishing connections?
That's a dirt cheap alternator. Buyer beware.
A couple of things to keep in mind: The higher the amperage output, the higher the resistance. The cheaper the brand, the worse the brushes, and the higher the resistance.
The higher the resistance, the bigger the power drain from the engine.
Oh yeah, and cheap alternators break prematurely, just like cheap starters. No two ways around it.
Good luck.
P.S. If you want a good upgrade, call Powermaster. Expensive, but reliable and powerful. They will tell you if they have a model to fit. Then call Summit for the discount price.
A couple of things to keep in mind: The higher the amperage output, the higher the resistance. The cheaper the brand, the worse the brushes, and the higher the resistance.
The higher the resistance, the bigger the power drain from the engine.
Oh yeah, and cheap alternators break prematurely, just like cheap starters. No two ways around it.
Good luck.
P.S. If you want a good upgrade, call Powermaster. Expensive, but reliable and powerful. They will tell you if they have a model to fit. Then call Summit for the discount price.
NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
Im unsure of the part numbers. maybe search the forum for the proper number. Im too used to the '89 SHO alternators, they are specific to the '89.
Anyhow, an alternator swap can be done in a matter of minutes. I recently swapped mine out with a working used unit in ness than 20 minutes.
Unplug battery, disconnect electrical connections on the alternator, loosen the idler pulley nut (14mm), then loosen the belt tensioner (large allen head screw), remove belt, then remove alternator.
Assemble in reverse!
The hardest part is removing the lower alternator mounting bolt. The AC equipment gets in the way a bit.
Anyhow, an alternator swap can be done in a matter of minutes. I recently swapped mine out with a working used unit in ness than 20 minutes.
Unplug battery, disconnect electrical connections on the alternator, loosen the idler pulley nut (14mm), then loosen the belt tensioner (large allen head screw), remove belt, then remove alternator.
Assemble in reverse!
The hardest part is removing the lower alternator mounting bolt. The AC equipment gets in the way a bit.
Rob94
New Member
First off, you need a 130 amp alternator. Autozone has the Duralast brand listed at $159.99. If you do need an alternator, it is usually cheaper to have yours rebuilt.
Rob94
New Member
You can find in the yellow pages rebuild shops. I pay $80 with a one day turnaround to have mine rebuilt all the time. It's just bearings and brushes.
Rob94
New Member
I have it rebuilt "all the time" as in I've owned it for nearly 9 yrs and put 195,000 miles on it. I also do side work for various friends and family, and have had their alts rebuilt. Always cheaper than buying new/rebuilt.
Bizzy
SHO Member
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I'd also go the local shop rebuild route. I took my alt in there after I dropped it while putting my UDP's on. They rebuilt it with a new voltage regulator, new shaft, and new bearings for $54 with tax.
Never again will I buy a starter or alternator from an auto parts place.
Never again will I buy a starter or alternator from an auto parts place.
The draw with the car off should be less than 4 millivolts. About 2 is fine. 4 is high.
While running, the alternator should put out between 13.5-14.5 volts. Any higher and the battery may gas. Any lower and the car may run poorly while under load from many accessories (the more acessories loaded, the less the voltage will be at idle at the battery).
The amperage will vary upon loading the battery. It will only put out max amperage (90, 100, 120, whatever you have) when the regulator is bypassed and the alternator is full-fielded. While full fielding, reduce the amperage to the battery by turning on all accessroies.
While running, the alternator should put out between 13.5-14.5 volts. Any higher and the battery may gas. Any lower and the car may run poorly while under load from many accessories (the more acessories loaded, the less the voltage will be at idle at the battery).
The amperage will vary upon loading the battery. It will only put out max amperage (90, 100, 120, whatever you have) when the regulator is bypassed and the alternator is full-fielded. While full fielding, reduce the amperage to the battery by turning on all accessroies.
no...
Not definately.
That's why you need to full field the alternator and check for missing voltage or unwanted voltage at various places in the alternator. I have to run for now, but I'll write up the procedure later. It requires a multimeter.
Not definately.
That's why you need to full field the alternator and check for missing voltage or unwanted voltage at various places in the alternator. I have to run for now, but I'll write up the procedure later. It requires a multimeter.
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