Changing out alternator

[stephen newberg]

I am putting in a new alternator and my sub frame with both fastners on one side loosened off only wants to drop about 3/8 of an inch, and I need it down maybe 3/4. Anyone have any thoughts on what might be the hang up (literally)?

pax, smn

 

[kevinspann]

You probably need to loosen all 4, especially with the alsfb. You're not able to get any flex from the the driver's side with those still tight.

 

[stephen newberg]

Hmmm. OK, that makes a huge amount of sense. Not sure why I did not think of it. Thank you, Kevin.

pax, smn

 

[Liquid_force]

FWIW - I've replaced my alt twice.
haven't needed to loosen SF

 

[98SF19]

subframe

+1
Though I've only done the job once, I didn't even think to lower the sf. If you don't know the secret rotational combination to get it out and the new back in (can be found on this site), lowering the sf would probably make the job go much smoother. My big hassle was not breaking loose the bottom bolt before the top 2. I've probably never exerted that much force on anything as I did on that bottom bolt. What a PITA!!!!! But worth every bit of the $400+ I saved in doing it.

 

[stephen newberg]

I looked at the one about how to rotate and tried it for about 15 minutes prior to saying the **** with it and just breaking the subframe loose. I had no problems with any of the bolts during the entire job. Generally, whenever I do anything, I put it back using anti seize compound. At this point, most everything has been out at least once, so things come out the second (or subsequent) time pretty easily. My main hangup was having forgotten the amount of play would be severely reduced by the aluminum solid subframe bushings. Once Kevin reminded me, the rest of the job was fairly easy, though I had to have help getting the belt back on over that last idler while holding the tensioner at max, as it really is a 4 ********, IMO anyway. All back together and working fine now, except I also found a brake fluid leak at the back and now need to address it. Old cars are like that.

pax, smn

 

[Liquid_force]

HATE that serp belt.
I always feel like I must be doing something stupid to make it so hard, but I think it's just that hard.

 

[stephen newberg]

That is certainly my impression.

pax, smn

 

[98SF19]

serp

Nimz claims to have done it all (serp belt) completely from the top. :laugh_ti:

I noticed when I replaced my belt last year that there were 2 models for our cars that were not the same length - maybe a 1/8" difference. I forget exactly. I found a thread from v8sho that suggested the longer one. It was a bit tough, but I've done it about 4 times by myself. You guys must have the shorter one. Either that or you need to start hitting the gym a bit more and less of this:

 

[stephen newberg]

That is interesting. Not the from the top, which is amusing only, but an extra 1/8" would have been handy. Did you by any chance note the two different part numbers? Its not a strength thing as both of us are pretty fit. Getting the tensioner out to its max Chuck did, and he can move serious weight, while I pushed the belt over the last idler because I have narrower arms and hands. Its not fun, and it would be a lot less so doing it by yourself, I have no doubt.

pax, smn

 

[Bull Geek]

On a jelly bean Duratec Taurus and a SHO Taurus, dropping subframe on one side definitely makes a world of difference and cuts down on the use of profanity!

Balancing the 3/8" extension on the endlink attachment point and turning the tensioner was quite a task with 2 hands.