Changing front/rear ATX motor mount's need tips/sugg. for pictorial.

[40BelowSummer]

I am changing my front and rear motor mounts in my 93 ATX. I am going to do a write-up as well as pics for shophoenix. having never done this before, can anyone tell me the procedure/steps/tips? Anything to help. I just want to run into as little confusion/problems as possible. Do I have to take starter and alternator off to get to the front mount? Thanks!

<small>[ March 19, 2004, 10:39 AM: Message edited by: guitar333 ]</small>

 

[40BelowSummer]

bump

 

[Yamaha V6]

Have fun. I changed mine when I had the radiator out on the front, and jacked the engine off the subframe for the rear when I installed the solid rubber ones.

 

[40BelowSummer]

did u take starter/alternator off as well?

 

[revhardSHO]

guitar333:
did u take starter/alternator off as well?

even though i dont own an atx sho, i seriosly doubt you need to remove the alternator or starter.

Just go to work on it, youll get done.

 

[40BelowSummer]

haha mabe your right. i always get caught up in asking questions before i do the work. thanks though

silly me oh thumb

 

[romasho]

guitar333:
I am changing my front and rear motor mounts in my 93 ATX. I am going to do a write-up as well as pics for shophoenix. having never done this before, can anyone tell me the procedure/steps/tips? Anything to help. I just want to run into as little confusion/problems as possible. Do I have to take starter and alternator off to get to the front mount? Thanks!

 

[40BelowSummer]

^^^ ??? did u mean to type something or do you have the same question?

 

[Dr. Tweak]

lol...

Have you checked out a repair manual?

This is copied from Autozone's repair site:

3.0L and 3.2L SHO Engines

RIGHT FRONT (NO. 2) AND RIGHT REAR (NO. 3)

1.

Remove the lower damper bolt from the right side of the engine.
2.

Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
3.

Place a jack and a wood block in a suitable place under the engine.
4.

Remove the roll damper-to-engine retaining nuts and remove the roll damper.
5.

Raise the engine enough to unload the insulator.
6.

Remove the 2 through-bolts and remove the insulators from the engine bracket.
7.

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the insulator-to-engine bracket bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm). Tighten the insulator-to-frame nuts to 50-70 ft. lbs. (68-95 Nm). Tighten the roll damper retaining nuts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm). Tighten the engine damper-to-engine bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).

LEFT ENGINE INSULATOR AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY

1.

Remove the bolt retaining the roll damper to the lower damper bracket and place the damper shaft aside.
2.

Remove the back-up light switch and the energy management bracket.
3.

Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands under the vehicle body, allowing the subframe to hang.
4.

Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
5.

Place a jack and wood block under the transaxle.
6.

Remove the nuts retaining the lower damper bracket to the engine mount and the bolts retaining the insulator to the transaxle and subframe.
7.

Raise the transaxle with the jack enough to unload the insulator.
8.

Remove the insulator and lower damper bracket.
9.

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the damper bracket-to-insulator nuts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm) and the insulator-to-transaxle bolts to 70-95 ft. lbs. (95-139 Nm). Tighten the insulator-to-frame bolts to 60-85 ft. lbs. (81-115 Nm) and the damper to damper bracket bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).

<small>[ March 19, 2004, 10:48 PM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>

 

[40BelowSummer]

thanks josh, the sites looking great BTW

<small>[ March 19, 2004, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: guitar333 ]</small>

 

[Dr. Tweak]

thumb

Thanks!

Looking forward to that guide! FYI all the pics on the site were resized from 2 megapixels to 640x480.

<small>[ March 20, 2004, 12:14 AM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>