chain tensioners have me going in circles..

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jdSHO94

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ok guys- i have a 1994 mtx with 132k on it and i have been having trouble with those chain tensioners again. I purchased a used set from ebay and cleaned them VERY thoroughly, then proceeded to replace the chain tensioner on the front bank (the one i know was not operating correctly). After completing this repair, i noted the rear head chain tensioner was noisy. Under the assumption that i simply missed this given the fact that the front was amazingly loud, about a week later i replaced the rear tensioner with the ebay part, along with a new accel coil, plug wires, and new spark plugs. When it was all said and done the car started and ran great, but as the idle slowed down, there was that front tensioner knocking on the VC again! Tonight i removed the front tensioner, cleaned it again and reinstalled it. The noise disappeared for an estimated 25 miles or so and when i arrived back home again, my noise has returned. Im beginning to feel as though there may be something in the oil galleries feeding the tensioners that is choking off the oil supply to them, but again i am only guessing. I dont know how much longer i can take this so any advice anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
 
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SHObill

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By cleaning them thoroughly-did you remove the roll pin & comp dis-assemble & clean inside? Did you inspect the spring for good compression? I have stretched the spring a bit or added a couple small washers in the bottom of the base tube,add some assembly **** & re-assemble. Work the assembly to make sure it functions well & re-install.
 
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SHObill said:
By cleaning them thoroughly-did you remove the roll pin & comp dis-assemble & clean inside? Did you inspect the spring for good compression? I have stretched the spring a bit or added a couple small washers in the bottom of the base tube,add some assembly **** & re-assemble. Work the assembly to make sure it functions well & re-install.
hey Bill just to let you know the spring blocks work on 2003 Cavaliers too.
and seem to drop the 60' times around a tenth:thumb:
my buddy was able to get his into the 15's using them :rofl:
 

jdSHO94

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okay i did completely disassemble and clean all pieces of the tensioner and stretched the spring out a little. I have never had anyone suggest placing small washers in there but i take it you have encountered a problem similar to this before?
 

jelloslug

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Did you replace the chains? In my experiences stretched timing chains are as big an issue as sticking tensioners.
 

jdSHO94

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i recieved a new set of chains with the tensioners but did not replace them with the tensioners. Is timing chain stretch a common malady?
 

AREA 91

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Chains stretch over time, just like on your bicycle. If the timing chain has been stretched far enough, even a NEW tensioner won't be able to take up the extra slack from the worn out chain.:thumb:
 

jelloslug

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jdSHO94 said:
i recieved a new set of chains with the tensioners but did not replace them with the tensioners. Is timing chain stretch a common malady?
Yep, at 160k miles my old chains were almost 1/2 a link longer. When I did my 3.2 even the 84k mile chains were measurably longer. They are still available from Ford and are not that expensive.
 

jdSHO94

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in order to replace the chain do i have to remove the camshaft(s)? i managed to do the tensioners without removing either one but i dont think i would be so lucky with chain replacement...
 

AREA 91

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No, you don't have to remove the camshafts. You can remove the sprockets from the ends of the camshafts, then the chains. You will have to rotate the engine to get at all 4 bolts. Don't forget to make sure you have the engine "timed" correctly when your all done.:thumb:
 

jelloslug

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AREA 91 said:
No, you don't have to remove the camshafts. You can remove the sprockets from the ends of the camshafts, then the chains. You will have to rotate the engine to get at all 4 bolts. Don't forget to make sure you have the engine "timed" correctly when your all done.:thumb:

Actually if you get the sprockets at just the right location and you thin wrench you can get the sprockets off without having to move the cams. I find it MUCH easier to just remove the exhaust cams than trying to suffer with getting the chain/sprockets back in with the cams in place. If you do remove the exhaust cam BE SURE to plug the oil return holes so you wont have to pull the oil pan to retrieve that cam bearing cap bolt.
 

93rev2sev

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The above sounds like the way to go. I have a couple of questions though. Have you had the oil pan down recently? If not, I would take it down and make sure that there is nothing blocking the oil pickup screen. When I did my rod bearings, my screen was partially clogged with bits of RTV gasket. This could cause the oil starvation at the tensioners.
 
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