CD Player

[Matts93SHO]

Does anyone out there have a factory cd player that works that you want to get rid of? I'm looking for one that will work in a 93 SHO along with my factory cassette.

 

[Sammage]

Yeah, I still got mine...I'm in Wichita BTW...u going to be nearby anytime soon...it'd be easier than shipping it...

 

[SW SHO]

The sinlge DIN cd player from a mustang of same years can be used, also the head unit.

Do you or did you have a stock cd player in your car to begin with? If not, you'll need some wiring harness to complete the set up.

Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6774&item=1876443442

or:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3293&item=1949858300

 

[pbshow]

I've got a spare harness that connects the deck to the CD player if needed. Email me.

Paul beer

 

[jelloslug]

If you tape deck does not have a shorting plug in the CD player wiring connection you will have to open the tape dack up and do some work on the inside to get the CD player to work. Look here: SHOtimes stereo info

 

[SHONUT91]

I have one I will part with.I even have pics of it on my photoisland account.
login:taylornichole
password:taurus
If interested shoot me an e-mail,I do have the wiring harness as well.

 

[jbserra]

so the stock amp is pretty wimpy? 20x4? Doesn't sound too impressive. Should I not attempt to continue to use the amp, and just get a decent head unit? There was something about "biamped with custom equalization for the JBL speakers" So if I do go the new head unit route, my speakers won't sound right?

If I try to stay Ford stock, I would like to replace the ford cassette unit with a ford CD head unit. I'm assuming there are no issues with that (if I get one from the same year or so)? Just plug and play?

So if anyone has a CD that is drop in for a '92 SHO, please let ME know

 

[jelloslug]

For the most part if the CD player will fit in the hole and plug in it will work. There are a few exceptions where you will have to do some small modifications to the wiring (like trying to use an 89-91 CD player in a 92+ car and vice versa) but other than that hit eBay. I even see brand new Ford CD players on there all the time.

 

[jbserra]

So what's the dominant opinion out there?

Replace existing Ford cassette with:
1) Ford CD.
2) Non-factory head unit using the factory amp.
3) Non-factory head unit bypassing amp.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

if you listen to alot of music do yourself a favor, buy a new head unit and bypass the amp. but either way if you buy a non-factory head unit you need to bypass the amp or it will not sound as good. you will get alot of distortion, especially if you turn the volume up. the bypass kit is cheap at circuit city/best buy though, so fear not.

not that the ford factory stuff is bad, but after market is better thumbs_u

 

[jelloslug]

Don't fool around with one of those amp bypass kits if you want to put an aftermarket stereo. There is a set of connectors in the dash next to the stereo that let you patch directly in to the speakers. See this thread: Bypassing the amps

 

[jbserra]

jelloslug:
Don't fool around with one of those amp bypass kits if you want to put an aftermarket stereo. There is a set of connectors in the dash next to the stereo that let you patch directly in to the speakers. See this thread: Bypassing the amps

I had just noticed that thread. That's cool if I have the original set of wires in my car, too.

I just realized that I have a CD player that I could use, but it only has 10 watts/channel (Pioneer DEH-205). That is less then what Ford's amplifier has. So new options are:

This player without ford amp (low power)
This player with ford amp (distortion still?)
New player with sufficient power

Thanks for the info thus far!

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

ill have to check the bypass thread you put up there but the kit is easy, its one cable and plugs right in, takes 30 seconds. although if you dont want to spend the 20 bucks thats another issue, but its included in the wiring harness kit you would need to put an aftermarket radio in anyway so.....

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

ps - jbserra the ford amp is 20W x 4 (if i recall correctly) which means 5W per channel,the stock speakers are usually lower ohm ratings which make it louder. i cant remember what mine said when i took them out though, but i think it was 2ohms, most aftermarket speakers are 4ohms. if your pioneer is 10W per channel your better off using that wink which would make it 40W x 4.

correction now, i just checked and shotimes said the stock amp was 15W rms x 4, which means approx. 3.75W per channel. the pioneer is 40W peak x 4, which equates to 7W per channel rms, therefore twice as loud thumbs_u

<small>[ January 14, 2003, 03:17 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>

 

[jbserra]

I thought the "x4" meant that many watts by 4 channels? Is that 4 ohms?

<small>[ January 14, 2003, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: jbserra ]</small>

 

[jbserra]

Ok, I'm being a pain...

Is there a adapter that allows me to hook up any CD player to the back of my head unit? I know it will accept the ford aux CD player, so it would work if I have an adapter. Either I make one, or there is one...

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

sorry for the delay, just got home from work. well the "x 4" does mean by 4 channels, youre correct, but you had said it was 10 watts *per* channel meaning 40w total x 4 channels, which is louder than stock ford so i think you would be more pleased with the pioneer, besides pioneer sounds better than early 90s JBL stuff. i was just pointing out that most aftermarket speakers are 4ohms whereas im finding alot of car makers like to use 2 or 3ohm speakers because it will make it a little louder, not necessarily better, but louder, which makes you think the system is bigger than it is. now which head unit are you talking about there? the ford or the pioneer unit? im assuming the ford, im just confused and warming up from the cold right now, but there may well be an adapter for you. i would call crutchfield and find out or a similiar company. let us know if it exists.

<small>[ January 14, 2003, 05:12 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>

 

[jelloslug]

Is there a adapter that allows me to hook up any CD player to the back of my head unit?

You can hook anything you want to the head unit as long as it has a line out and you head unit has the shorting plug in the the spot where the CD player wiring goes. If it does not it will take some internal modifications to work. The connector is just a preamp loop and a logic connection to make the unit switch to "CD" mode. Very easy to mod into a general input connection for anything you want.

<small>[ January 15, 2003, 08:39 AM: Message edited by: jelloslug ]</small>

 

[jbserra]

jelloslug:

Is there a adapter that allows me to hook up any CD player to the back of my head unit?

You can hook anything you want to the head unit as long as it has a line out and you head unit has the shorting plug in the the spot where the CD player wiring goes. If it does not it will take some internal modifications to work. The connector is just a preamp loop and a logic connection to make the unit switch to "CD" mode. Very easy to mod into a general input connection for anything you want.

I read the SHOtimes stereo info link and had some questions. It said 1/2 shorted and 4/5. Then it says "play with the connector jumper shims until you are satisfied that the shim shorting pins 4 & 5 are making good contact." Does this mean you want to leave 4/5 shorted and open 1/2?

 

[jelloslug]

That info is a bit vague, they are takling about bad connections at the shorting jumper. Is what is going on there is this: Pins 2 and 5 are the OUT signal from the tape and radio, pins 1 and 4 are the IN signal that goes to the preamp and processing in the headunit and then out to the amps in the trunk. The shorting plug just hooks the OUT pins to the IN pins (1 to 2 and 5 to 4). The other pins are to tell the headunit to go into "CD" mode which turns of the tape and/or radio and displays "CD" in the display. If you want to hook somthing up to the headunit you need to remove the shorting plug and hook up the left output from your device to pin 1 and the right output to pin 4. To get the radio and tape to work again you will have to hook the loop back up so you would need to make a switch to switch between sources.

<small>[ January 15, 2003, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: jelloslug ]</small>