ccrm? something else?

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S_Levatino

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Well here goes nothing hopefully you guys can help me

So I noticed about a week ago my fuel pump would turn when it wanted too so I looked up symptoms and I found out about the ccrm so I ordered one on sunday (just got here today). A couple days previous to this I had put a sound system in (everything worked fine). But now very randomly 2 days ago I get into my car and 1 crank 2 crank then I here the multipmultiple clicks as if the battery was dead (which it was) and I didn't hear the fuel pump go so I figured it was combo of the ccrm and the possibility I left the door partialy or something like that. So I go to work come back push start it it starts fine but then after about 5 mins everything went dim the airbag light was flashing and the check engine came on (no battery light though) I went to move it i didnt keep it above 2k rpms and it stalled so I tryed push starting it nada then jumping it, when the cables were on everything went bright again (still no fuel pump noise) but after 2 cranks it would the starter had no juice and the starters brand new.

Could it be my alternator?

Do I even bother trying the new ccrm or do I just tow it home?
 

sperold

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Yes it could be your alternator. Take your battery out (at least disconnected from the car) and fully charge it with a plug-in charger. Put it back in the car and see how things go. If it works well for a few days, your alternator could be pooched. And if it is, have it rebuilt rather than swapping it at an autoparts store.
Your issue could be a number of things, but start at the simple end of the scale, like alternator and battery.
That recent radio install is something to consider as well, disable that circuit and see if things go better.
 

S_Levatino

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Yes it could be your alternator. Take your battery out (at least disconnected from the car) and fully charge it with a plug-in charger. Put it back in the car and see how things go. If it works well for a few days, your alternator could be pooched. And if it is, have it rebuilt rather than swapping it at an autoparts store.
Your issue could be a number of things, but start at the simple end of the scale, like alternator and battery.
That recent radio install is something to consider as well, disable that circuit and see if things go better.

I took the fuses out of the amps no powers going there now. Should I have the alternator bench tested before I even plug in the new ccrm and what's the benefit of having it rebuilt
 

Irish Pride

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What all does your sound system consist of? If you put in aftermarket amps its possible that you need to upgrade the Alt. Depending on what you did the Alt. may not be able to keep up.
 

S_Levatino

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What all does your sound system consist of? If you put in aftermarket amps its possible that you need to upgrade the Alt. Depending on what you did the Alt. may not be able to keep up.

2000 watt amp for 2 rockford 12's and a 1000 watt for the vocals
 

93markVIII

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2000+1000=3000 watts.

3000 watts / 13 volts = 230 amps.
or about 100 amps more than the alternator can output at full capacity.

so yeah, you just might be out of power.
 

SHOdded

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Double check your wiring for the sound system. Maybe you nicked a wire or didn't tighten down a ground? Did you run a separate power lead to the battery? You would definitely need a very heavy gauge wire for a system this size. The battery should also be sized appropriately and be a deep cycling type.

What is the startup power draw of this system? Highly unlikely you are using all that power at one time, but the SHO's electrical systems can be a bit on the iffy side anyway. Installing a second battery dedicated to the sound system would also be a good idea, if you regularly call on the high volume capabilities.

Wouldn't hurt to upgrade the alternator windings at a local shop to support.
 

S_Levatino

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Well now I put a charged up battery in today and I still don't hear the fuel pump go on when the keys in the on position cranks but no start
 

integrity6987

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When you pull the pump to determine if it has failed - you can do this by using an ohmmeter to check the continuity through the motor.

pins on top when tubing is facing to your right looking down on it - see if have near zero ohms on bottom 2 pins if Yes motor is OK.

(FYI lowest (4th pin) to pump is neg. 3rd pin is pump positive. You can run pump (be safe sparks near gas are explosive) by jumping wire from battery to pin 3 and pin 4 to ground.)

if motor is OK - must be issue with supply voltage or system ground.

Good luck.
 

integrity6987

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Also (I've not tried this - but sounds easier and safer than my previous post) but grounding the fuel pump lead found on the data link (black D-shaped female plug on driver side inside engine compt) The port on this plug for the fuel pump is the far right one when the flat side of the "D" is on the bottom.

Ignition switch in on position - pump should run continuously.
 

integrity6987

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Also (I've not tried this - but sounds easier and safer than my previous post) but grounding the fuel pump lead found on the data link (black D-shaped female plug on driver side inside engine compt) The port on this plug for the fuel pump is the far right one when the flat side of the "D" is on the bottom.

Ignition switch in on position - pump should run continuously.

if it does run - manual says might be a pressure issue...
 

S_Levatino

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Also (I've not tried this - but sounds easier and safer than my previous post) but grounding the fuel pump lead found on the data link (black D-shaped female plug on driver side inside engine compt) The port on this plug for the fuel pump is the far right one when the flat side of the "D" is on the bottom.

Ignition switch in on position - pump should run continuously.

if it does run - manual says might be a pressure issue...

ok thank you ill check when i get home
 

S_Levatino

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havent been able to get a ohms meter yet but if this helps in any way the rpm needle fell below the pin
 

S_Levatino

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Also (I've not tried this - but sounds easier and safer than my previous post) but grounding the fuel pump lead found on the data link (black D-shaped female plug on driver side inside engine compt) The port on this plug for the fuel pump is the far right one when the flat side of the "D" is on the bottom.

Ignition switch in on position - pump should run continuously.

if it does run - manual says might be a pressure issue...

i was just thinking could it be something as simple as the fuel pump connector at the fuel pump came lose or the plastic became loose and brittle and just snapped
 

intimdatr

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Its on the driver side behind the carpet. Should have a little button that should be pressed down.
If you have enough bass and touchy enough switch it can be tripped.
 

S_Levatino

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Its on the driver side behind the carpet. Should have a little button that should be pressed down.
If you have enough bass and touchy enough switch it can be tripped.

I'm sorry for my lack of knowledge but should be pressed down in working condition or in non working condition because its pressed down
 

jelosav

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Just a simple thought, but have you cleaned the battery terminals and connections?? Every SHO I have seen has aftermarket battery terminals that have the wire clamped into them. This is a very bad electrical connection when corroded. The corrosion actual travels into the battery cable and causes all sorts of electrical gremlins. Start first with lots of baking soda and water and work it down into the cable to clean up the little tiny wires that make up the battery cable.

p.s. your Fosgate amps are 2000w and 1000w I.L.S (If Lightning Strikes) rated. They are fused at 140A max between the two of them. While your SHO alternator may be a little light for constant bumpin' of the subs at idle. You should not experience any trouble with a properly performing factory alternator, good connections, and a good battery.
 

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