CCRM module

[cetroutt]

so i found this on SHO source.


Make sure you select the correct application for your car. If you suspect your CCRM is not working, it might also be because someone installed the wrong one. It is critical that the correct CCRM be installed for the year and model of car. The CCRM model can be identified by the large letter code printed on the cover of the CCRM (under the foam pad).

M code was used for 89-93 MTX

J code was used for 93-95 ATX

D code was used for 94-95 MTX

Installation of a CCRM has a difficulty of 1 out of 10.

and i noticed that whoever replaced the one on mine replaced with a J. is this bad and if so how bad is it?

 

[Phoenix]

so i found this on SHO source.


Make sure you select the correct application for your car. If you suspect your CCRM is not working, it might also be because someone installed the wrong one. It is critical that the correct CCRM be installed for the year and model of car. The CCRM model can be identified by the large letter code printed on the cover of the CCRM (under the foam pad).

M code was used for 89-93 MTX

J code was used for 93-95 ATX

D code was used for 94-95 MTX

Installation of a CCRM has a difficulty of 1 out of 10.

and i noticed that whoever replaced the one on mine replaced with a J. is this bad and if so how bad is it?

Bad , period. The wirings/pins arnt the same. Remove it before you fry something else. The info on shosource is correct.

 

[92inPA]

The CCRM supplies power to the fuel pump, cooling fan(s), EEC and AC clutch. Your 93 mtx should have an M box. Your J box should be fine, in your case. More details are available HERE.

 

[projectSHO89]

The CCRM supplies power to the fuel pump, cooling fan(s), EEC and AC clutch. Your 93 mtx should have an M box. Your J box should be fine, in your case. More details are available HERE.

There is a reprint of my post in the sticky, used with permission....

Again, I covered this thoroughly in the indicated post.

Steve

 

[AIrcraftMech]

I own a 95 MTX 3.0. The other day the fuel pump quit. Everyone told me to drop the tank and put a new fuel pump in. No need to trouble shot it. So in went the new pump. Guess what? It was not the pump. The CCRM was bad. If you don't know about this box, I quote the info page that was sent to me:
"This is the black box that sits just above the radiator. It houses relays that supply power to the fuel pump, cooling fan(s), EEC and AC clutch. In Gen 1's it is called an IRCM and in Gen 2's it is known as a CCRM. They both do the same thing, but just have different names. As the SHOs get older these boxes will likely be an increasing source of problems."
Same page that projectSHO89 quoted.

After three days trying to find a replacement this is what I found out:
1. Ford stopped making them in 2004
2. Ford has none anywhere in their parts system.

If you need to get one of these replaced the only place that I have found so far to get one is here:

http://shosource.com/catalog/index.php

I am going to disassemble my old one as soon as I get the replacement and see if I can fix/replace the bad component. If I succeed in fixing my old one I will let everybody know and will be ready to fix others. The plan is, you pay shipping both ways & cost of parts, labor is free. I'll add to the post once mine is fixed.
Edit/Delete Message

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I own a 95 MTX 3.0. The other day the fuel pump quit. Everyone told me to drop the tank and put a new fuel pump in.

Who is this "everyone"???

I just checked all your posts and there is not a single one related to a no fuel condition.

I can't imagine anyone on this forum telling you to replace the pump without at least first verifying that you have power getting to the pump. ****, a good pothole can trip the IFS switch in the trunk and **** power to the fuel pump.

There are aftermarket replacements for some of the CCRM's available.

 

[AIrcraftMech]

"Who is this "everyone"???

I just checked all your posts and there is not a single one related to a no fuel condition."

Sorry for the confusion about the everybody comment. I meant "everybody" as in everybody out here that I talked to. I didn't find this forum until after I ordered the replacement CCRM. I already knew about the IFS switch due to working for a towing company and checked it first. I shouldn't have listened to people who don't have as much professional training as myself. Good thing I wasn't at work or I could have killed a bunch of cattle (oops, I mean passengers). But then again, at work I work side by side with the best mechanics in the world, Federally Certified, it doesn't get any higher. So if I made anyone mad or upset over the implication that I got the information about the fuel pump being the problem from here I apologize.

 

[SHOZ123]

If you ground a wire at the data connector you can test the fuel pump circuitry. This will test the entire circuit starting at the CCRM. If the pump doesn't run continuously then then you need to see if there is voltage at the switch in the trunk. If so there then it's on to the fuel pump. If not it's back towards the CCRM.

If you are any good with a soldering iron sometimes it is just the heavy soldered traces that break apart inside the CCRM.

 

[AIrcraftMech]

So which wire do you ground? I do not have any voltage at the switch in the tank, so I figured that it is the CCRM. Couldn't you splice the wire to ground, insert a switch and use it as an anti-theft device? Thanks

 

[shopartsnw]

Look at the EEC connector here: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes.html

Now run a wire between ground and the Fuel Pump terminal on the EEC test connector. When you turn the key to ON it will make the fuel pump run all the time (direct feed of power to the pump).

If this does not work, it could be the inertia switch in the trunk (drivers side fender well), or the fuel pump itself.

If you want a security device, you just need to install a switch in the wiring to the inertia switch in the trunk. When that goes open, you only get a couple seconds of fuel and the car dies.

Hope that helps.

Mike