Car wont Idle until warm...

[jmkinmsp]

OK, I had a coolant leak due to a cut hose below the throttle body and I took the throttle body off, fixed the hose but when I put throttle body back on, the car wouldnt start.

I finally got it to start but I had to put the pedal half way to the floor to start it and hold it there to keep in running. I cleaned the IAB, checked for vaccuum leaks, did the reset idle procedure but it still doesnt run right.

After I do the idle set procedure the car seems to run fine but once the car sits for a while or when the engine is cold, the car will not run on its own until it warms up.

I have ran the codes and I am getting an 11 for KOEO and im getting the following codes on KOER

12 (Cannot control RPM during self-test high RPM check. Suspect throttle body coking)
13 (Cannot control RPM during self-test low RPM check. Suspect idle bypass valve problems)

I did the idle procedure correct I believe first doing the following:

Apply the parking brake, turn the A/C control selector OFF, then block the wheels.

Connect a tachometer and an inductive timing light to the engine. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperatures.

Unplug the Spark Output (SPOUT) line at the distributor, then check and/or adjust the ignition timing to the specification listed on the underhood emission calibration decal.

Stop the engine and disconnect the PCV hose at the intake manifold. Plug the PCV hose. Remove the Canister Purge Solenoid (CANP) hose from the intake manifold, then connect tool No. T89P-9600-AH or equivalent, between the PCV and CANP ports.

Then I performed the idle set procedure from one of scotts posts.

Im at a loss here any ideas?
jmkinmsp

 

[Bizzy]

I'm no expert, but perhaps you should clear your codes, disconnect the battery and then try the idle set proceedure again. Can't hurt to try it once more.

I had a very similar problem this past summer but it eventually worked itself out after about a week. To this day I don't know what the problem was.

<small>[ December 21, 2002, 10:31 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

First thing to check for is a vacuum leak at the throttle body.

Then, perform a mechanical inspection of the throttle plate and throttle cables, including the cruise cable. Look for anything that keeps the plate from closing properly.

The SHO does not have a PCV valve. Leave all the hoses attached, leave the SPOUT connector installed, and redo the idle learning procedure per Scott's instructions.

Perform another KOER test afterwards. If you still get the 12 or 13 code, replace the IAB. AutoZone, $55.

Steve

 

[jmkinmsp]

There are no vaccuum leaks that I could find and I redid scott's Idle set procedure, cleaned the IAB (which looked good) and it still does the same thing. What is wierd is as soon as the car starts to warm up, I have no problems whatsoever, it idles like a champ. It's when I try to start the car after it has been sitting for a few hours and then it wont start unless I give it gas and then I have to keep hitting gas until its warm enough to run on its own. I ran the codes againg and I get 12 & 13.

Below is the procedure I have listed in Alldata for Idle Speed Adjustment.......Which is correct?

1990 Ford Taurus V6-182 3.0L DOHC SHO

IDLE SPEED

1. Unplug spout line and verify that ignition timing is base +/- 2 degrees BTDC.
2. Remove PCV hose from throttle body and plug it. Remove canister purge hose from throttle body and connect Rotunda tool T89P-9600-AH (0.200 inch diameter orifice) between PCV and CANP ports.
3. Disconnect Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid.
4. Start engine and run at idle.
5. Check/adjust idle rpm Turn the throttle plate stop screw to 800 +/- 30 rpm.
6. Shut engine OFF and disconnect battery for 5 minutes minimum.
7. Remove CANP hose from PCV connector of throttle body and reconnect it to its CANP fitting. Unplug PCV hose and reconnect it to its PCV fitting.
8. Reconnect Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid, verify the throttle is not stuck in the bore and linkage not preventing throttle from closing.
9. Start engine and stabilize for 2 minutes then goose the engine and let it return to idle, lightly depress and release the accelerator let engine idle. If idle problem still exists check for other possible causes.

Copyright © 2002 ALLDATA LLC

Thank you,
Jeff

 

[projectSHO89]

The 12 and 13 codes indicate that that IAB is unable to do its job of controlling or regulating idle speed. It does this by regulating the air allowed to bypass the throttle plate under idle conditions and is controlled by the PCM.

This is likely due to the IAB itself, wiring, the PCM, or one of the important inputs to the PCM, such as the throttle position sensor (TPS).

I understand that the TPS can be tested at AutoZone. If necessary, test it with a meter or just swap it for a known good one.

It is possible that a wiring connection was pulled or stretched in making the coolant hose repair. Likely suspects for that would be the TPC and the IAB (if removed).

The procedure that Scott has listed seems to work well. FWIW, the computer will eventually relearn the profile anyway, that procedures is the equivilent of a "cold bootup" and will force it to learn immediately.

Steve